- A Review of Teeter STS18
- MesuMount 200 Review
- First Light with the Prototype 8x42 Space WalkerTM 3D Binoculars
- INTERSTELLARUM DEEP-SKY ATLAS (FIELD EDITION) REVIEW
- THE BAADER BBHS-SITALL SILVER DIAGONAL
- Explore Scientific AR 102
- Review: davejlec's Paralellogram Mount
- Annals of the Deep Sky, Volumes One and Two
- Discovery 17.5” Split Tube Dobsonian Telescope
- REVIEW OF SUMERIAN OPTICS ALKAID 16” TRAVEL SCOPE
- Astrotrac TP3065 Pier Review
- Apo-tmosphere: Gutekunst ADC Review
- Optolong LRGB Filter Testing and Comparison with Baader LRGB Filters
- First Light Review: Teeter Custom TT Planet Killer 16" f/5.4
- The Baader Planetarium Morpheus
CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. Donation is not required by any means, so please enjoy your stay.
Muons can be detected with cloud chambers, Geiger counters, and scintillator detectors, but can also be recorded with common digital camera CCD and CMOS chips which are sensitive to charged particles. Muon flux at the surface of the Earth averages approximately 1 particle per square centimeter per minute. The surface area of the APS-C camera sensor (22.3 x 14.9 mm) is 3.3 cm2, which means that we can expect on average 3 muon strikes on the sensor during a 1 minute exposure.
I recently got a Carl Zeiss S-Tessar 300mm f5.6 barrel lens (no aperture nor shutter) that came out of an old copy machine or color comparator, not sure which. While only demanding $50-$100 on the used photographic market it was suggested it might make a good rich field telescope. So I made one.
Overall, my experience at the Museum was incredible and it was nearly sensory overload to see so many vintage telescopes that I have only read about and all in one place. The zeal, skill, and dedication of these fellow amateur astronomers is creating something unique in the entire world, a hands on experience dedicated to preserving the entire legacy and heritage of telescopes and astronomy in Japan, without which many of us would never have received that first telescope under the Christmas tree in our youth.
Most of us have had the desire to take a break from using the average telescope with its relatively high power and concomitant narrow field of view and difficulty in finding targets. The so- called rich field telescope or large binoculars seem to fill the bill with their low power and wide fields. The question then becomes how to mount the thing for comfortable, extended viewing.
For at least 10 years, observers have complained in forums about eyepiece barrel undercuts causing various problems, but especially catches. Because of my own experiences with catches occurring during insertion or extraction of an eyepiece when used with an adapter, I decided to do some investigation as to why. Catches, I found, are not a one sided issue.
If you watch enough sunsets, you'll eventually see one where, just as the last sliver of sun slips away, it turns green or reappears for an instant as a flash of greenish light. Congratulate yourself - you have just seen the famous green flash!
This is a description of my adventures with the fabrication of a 6” f/15 oiled achromat.It is assumed you will know all about grinding, polishing and figuring. It will discuss some problems I ran into and what I did to solve them in the easiest and most practical way, as well as things to watch out for. This is not a step by step description of the making of a refracting objective let alone the complete telescope.
If you’re mount setup seems a bit too wobbly in the wind, well this West Texan might have the answer. This will not make a woefully inadequate mount suddenly fine, but it should help someone whose mount is almost capable enough, but not quite. People write on CN that this is self-evident, and after reading this article you may agree, but I like pointing out the obvious. Hope someone finds it edifying.