Sean Celestron 9.25 EdgeHD CGEM TMB-92L AVX Nikon D90/ Canon T2i Entropy is not chaotic but is rather an expression of organisation, just look up to the heavens above. Onward and upward - astroboy
Happy owner of--
A Mag 1, 12.5 inch Porta Ball
A Dual Axis Equatorial Platform
A PST Double Stack
Joe, C8 OTA on UA Unistar Heavy Deluxe SV-102V on same UA Unistar Heavy Deluxe(not at the same time). Orion 80ED on UA Microstar Basic. Miyauchi Bs-60ic "Pleiades" 22X60, Orion UltraView 10X50's.
C8HD， C9.25 and 10 Dob
G11/Gemini APM TMB 80/480 super apo Edge HD 9.25
Quote:At F14.6 you are looking at a small market these days so I wouldn't bother with a 10" go straight to a 12" or larger if you really want to make one or two. I would recommend you put your design skills and resources into a F8 corrected cassigrain-quarz mirrors-very nice, much larger market interest.
Chris TS 65mm EDQ Orion 80ST NEQ6 GoTo Mount ASI120MC Orion StarShoot Autoguider Atik 428EX Canon 550Da (modded)
But I think the big key for success is cool-down time.
Roland said many times his Maks have a secret trick to make them cool much faster. I think even equivalent Aries Maks do not have this trick. That is why till now AP Maks have no competition.
Quote: long cool down and after that a stable image, is far better then turbulences all night in a open Tube !!!!
"You're not afraid of the dark, are you?" - Riddick "The best scientists are humble. They seek to understand, not to ensure their legacy, but merely to understand." - Mori
Quote: is your 8" scope build like a modern fast cool down telescope should be build ? No, everything is done on it that it never cools down :-)
SCOPE Dome 3m Intes Micro MN 106 De Luxe - MN78 - Intes Micro MakCassegrain 14" F/12 Parallax 14.5" F/5 Zambuto - Celestron C14HD Edge with Starizona Hyperstar III Mount " el Capitan " 3600 Class AP 180EDT f/9 STARFIRE TMB Supermenocentric SET - Zeiss Abbe II Double SET - CZJ Ortho Set - Takahashi MC Ortho Set Mark V Bino - Barlow ABBE Zeiss - AP Barcon - TMB 1.8X ED IDS 3240CP NIR - Canon 60Da
C10NGT, Z8, 150 Rumak, XLT 150, C6, C5, SW5 Newt, 4.5 Ball, C102GT, C90, ST80, A70LF; 15x70, 25x100; Burgess BV; Paracorr II; T6 2.5, XO 2.58/5.1, Ethos-SX 3.7, Delos 4.5, TV Plossl 7.4-26, BCO 10, Hutech HC 12.5, Sterling 12.5-25, ES100 14, CZJ H 16/25, CZJ O 16, M5k UWA 24, T5 31, Ultrascopic 35, Titan-II 40; Bino Pairs M5k UWA 6.7, Baader Zoom 8-24, M5k SWA 24, TV Plossl 26, RKE 28.7; Zooms NZ 2-4, NZ 3-6, Leica ASPH 8.9-17.8, Baader 8-24; Baader Zoom Barlow, VIP Barlow
Quote:Why do they insist on doing it the wrong way? Haven't they learned anything in the last 40 years? I myself have thought of asking someone to machine a new tube for the optics, as the optics themselves are very good on this particular C8. It is very sharp and bright, but all the tube seeing almost always limit its performance.
Quote:I've C14HD and becames in cool down about 3 hours!!!!
The MN78 with one rear fan, only 15 minutes