Quote:Yeah, Meade doesn't have a great rep on their support side. Sorry to hear that. I do still love my classic though. I just know I am on my own when it comes to repairs. But then, I do have a 12 year old scope.There are some other folks out there that do repairs. You might want to check on the Yahoo LX200 group for more information if you would want to go that route.Seems to me I have seen the old handset on eBay too. You just never know what you can find out there.
Meade LX200 14" GPS SCT 6" F10 Jaegers refractor, Konus mount Mallincam MCX and DVE Lunt 100mm with BF 1800 My Album http://www.cloudynights.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3232&ppuser=80314&p... Favorite space place: www.theskyscrapers.org
Quote:My 12" LX200 classic will be arriving within the next few days. Currently all the electronics are functional. Is there a setup I should do to thwart the dreaded "tantalum capacitor" issue? (I would rather have $50 worth of preventative maintenance than $500 of repair/replacement!)Thanks!
"My advice is free and worth every penny!"
AP 130EDF-GT & AP Mach1
C14-XLT & AP 900GTO
Quote:Thanks Chris for the quick reply... I did some electronics about 20 years ago in the Navy surface fleet, but was really hoping for something along the hardware side I guess (I think I have a soldering iron around here somewhere, oh wait that's a propane torch... this is going to be ugly)...
Quote:...(I think I have a soldering iron around here somewhere, oh wait that's a propane torch... this is going to be ugly)...
Quote:any solutions based in the UK , out there ?
Friends call me Duane. Compustar C14, Leo Henzl's Custom C8, 6" Refractor Adv. GT mount, 6" F5 Omni XLT Newt., LXD-75 F4 Imaging SN8, Meade 8" F6 Newtonian, EX Dynamax DX6, RV-6 ETX-90 Astro, Meade 2045 4" SCT, B&L 4000 Vixen/Celestron 80mm F11 JC Penny 60mm AZ/ALT Refractor Binos 25x100
Quote:Hi, Wabbit: I have repaired 3 LX 200's that have had this problem. My advice concerning the hand controller is to chuck it and get the wireless one from Meade. SWEET! I have an original that I have replaced the capacitors in. I'd sell it for 80 bucks if you are stuck on that idea, though. I was not able to filter out what conclusion you reached. ALL tantalums should be replaced with electrolytics. NEVER use a tantalum. If you are using the 12v to 18v power adapter from Meade, this is a POS. It should have a 10 amp Hexfred diode put across the output and an inline fuse added. Most of the time when these tantalums blow they take out a couple of ic's on the motherboard. If you are back in business, fine. If not, let me know and I can maybe help you out. They are cheap and easy to replace.One other note of warning. The RA and DEC drives can get a little noisy in these things. A lot of people try to take them apart and lube them. It's easy to mess up the encoders doing that. If you aren't really comfortable with doing this, get someone experienced to do it.Hope you are back in business.
Scopes - 10" Meade LX200, Coronado 90mm, Vixen ED103, Orion 80mm Guide Mount - AP1600GTO Std (Encoders.... someday) Cameras - Atik 320E, Atik 314L+, Atik Titan, Mallincam Xtreme X2, Skyris 274M, Orion StarShooter, Canon 7D Instruments - L200 Spectrometer (300,600,1200 gratings), SA100 Diffraction Filters - LRGB,OIII,SII,Ha; J/C UV,B,V,Ic,Rc Way too many computers....
Quote:Tantalum capacitors are much-better than electrolytics in almost every application. Meade's mistake was in installing under-rated caps. Replacing the existing 16V-24V tantalums with 35V tantalums is the correct solution. Almost every single mf cap on any modern circuit board is a tantalum, not an electrolytic. Your cellphone, TV and car are full of tantalums.