Quote: Any pros/cons to this design?
-DannyMy warehouseMy Channel
Quote:Danny, great info - thanks! I like the idea of using "D"s for the bearings, the limit stops and having the collimation bolts on the front (very convienient!)One question - why F4.5 for faster? Simply to keep the overall length down?
Quote:Any pros/cons to this design?
ATM Nut. My builds: 6" f15 Refractor Big GEM mount 12.5" Homemade Newt Projects in the works: 16" F7.2 Reflector
Living at a dark site, I make scope when I have the inclination. I also do woodworking, cycling and other outdoor activities
Quote:I built an ultra-light style scope and while it looked great, using it for more than 20 minutes or so made me rebuild it in a more traditional style. The issue I had has flexing or bouncing when pointed lower *BLEEP* well as general flexing when working at high-power.
Quote:Just to mention, I have NO idea what I wrote to incur auto-bleep in my above post. I know I was thinking "lower targets". I guess I should keep my comments to 35deg or higher.
Quote:Sameer--I hope you will give us more details of your build as it progresses, especially the UTA.
Quote:--3/4" poles won't be stiff enough to hold collimation in the lengths chosen. 1.25" would have been far more rigid.
Quote:Quote:--3/4" poles won't be stiff enough to hold collimation in the lengths chosen. 1.25" would have been far more rigid.Why not? Trusses only need to handle push or pull, 3/4" surely won't buckle...
Celestron 8SE Dobstuff 13.1": Swayze refigured Coulter mirror, 6 pt mirror cell (2 pt edge support) and CF focuser board made by me StarBlast 4.5 ST80/PortaMount II Zhumell 20x80/Oberwerk 15x70 on a Seronik-style tripod boom mount Hubble Optics 18 inch F/4 mirror.