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CGE Dec tutorial, well....

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#1 David Pavlich

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 05:08 PM

I'll never have Joe, I can fix anything that goes wrong with a CGE, Cipriano's expertise, but I just changed the Dec. circuit board. So while I was in there, I took some pictures for those of you that have yet to experience the inner workings of your CGE's Dec gear/motor housing. This picture is what you see when you open it up. Note in the upper right, the infamous Dec microswitch. If you look closely, you'll see two allen head screws. Those are the screws that you loosen just enough to move to make the adjustment. More on that later.

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The next picture is the circuit board removed. Note on each end the nylon spacer. DON"T LOOSE THESE! Putting it together is a real treat. What I do is put a small dab of dielectric grease on each screw to hold the spacer in place.

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The next picture is what's underneath the circuit board which is the cutout for the Dec cable.

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The next picture is the new board with the wiring in place. There are two harnesses; one to the microswitch and the other to the motor. The harnesses can only go on one way...makes it idiot proof which works well for me. :grin:

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The last picture is a closeup of the microswitch. When you rotate the Dec axis by hand, you can hear the switch click off and on. That's how you adjust it. There's a groove cut in the surface that the switch runs on. One end of the groove is where the switch stops the Dec axis when it's trying to locate the Switch Position. What I did the first time was to remove the cover from the RA Axis and move the RA by hand to watch just how the switch worked and where it clicked on and off. The adjustment for the Dec axis is the same.

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You have a good view of the two set screws that hold the switch in place.

I put it together, along with an new set of Marty-cables (bought one for the RA axis as well), did a mach 2 star align and all went well. I'm relieved. :ubetcha:

Anyway, I hope that this helps anyone that might decide to do some "surgery" on their CGE's Dec inner workings.

David

#2 mclewis1

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 06:19 PM

Thanks David, nice pics. I'm going to put the contents of this thread somewhere safe, I know I'm going to need it someday.

#3 MartyT

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 09:47 AM

Hey David

Now that you've got the old board out, can you inspect the solder joints on the pins of the RJ45 socket? Or just generally give the whole board a really good once-over with a magnifying glass? I've got a sneakin' suspicion that there's a cold solder joint somewhere in there, or maybe a broken trace - either of which could be caused by stress on the RJ45 socket...

#4 David Pavlich

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Posted 15 December 2008 - 04:29 PM

Hey David

Now that you've got the old board out, can you inspect the solder joints on the pins of the RJ45 socket? Or just generally give the whole board a really good once-over with a magnifying glass? I've got a sneakin' suspicion that there's a cold solder joint somewhere in there, or maybe a broken trace - either of which could be caused by stress on the RJ45 socket...


Good idea, Marty. The next time I go into the obs, I'll give it a look see.

David

#5 CounterWeight

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Posted 19 December 2008 - 11:50 AM

Thanks David... great pics and commentary - and wanted to 2nd Martys request about the connx and trace/solder integrity - just wanted to add could you also look at the wire 'fingers' in the connx to see if there is fatigue or relaxation anywhere? Again, thank you.

#6 mtber

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:03 PM

Well, I taken the Dec and RA housing covers off and pulled the boards, no obvious signs of trouble. Plugged and unplugged and switched around the cables.

Still no luck with the hand controller or next remote.

Does anyone know what pins, etc I can check with a volt meter to try and track down the problem?

Thanks,

John






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