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Putting AT Voyager head on Oberwerk

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#1 Terrance

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 12:17 AM

About to put AT Voyager head on an Oberwerk tripod.

Pretty sure my oberwerk has an M10 bolt since a WO EZ-Touch fit on it.

I assume I just loosen the 3 screws on the AT chrome locking collar to remove it and then unscrew the hex bolt underneath the Voyager head to disconnect it from the tripod, but a little unclear on how to connect it to the Oberwork tripod.

Can anybody who has done that give me some pointers?

Thanks.

#2 pferendzo

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 05:29 AM

The set screw will remain in place. You need to loosen the bolt holding the mount to the tripod. Don't know if the Oberwerk is a surveyor tripod design or not, if it is you may need to shim the the base or turn down the bottom extrusion - there's a small extrusion on the bottom of the ring that I had to turn down to fit the surveyor tripod in the attached picture. Makes for a much more stable platform.

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#3 dvb

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 07:11 PM

You'll take off the retaining ring and "puck" that came with the tripod.

You'll then need a washer with about a 2.5" (or a bit bigger) diameter to span the hole left by the puck.

That washer probably has a hole that is too big for the head of the M10 bolt, so find one that will trap the head of the M10, but also span the hole in the big washer. Then just insert the M10 bolt through the two washers, and into the base of the Voyager.

There may be more elegant solutions, but this one is quick and cheap.

#4 Manny Myles

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 08:39 PM

I found that the Voyager factory m10 bolt was too short and simply got a longer one to attach it to the Oberwerk tripod, that and made my own right size spacer for a perfect fit.
I also left the lock ring on the tripod to protect the starter thread and put some vinyl electrical tape on the ring to protect the finish.
m2

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#5 Manny Myles

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 08:40 PM

Right size spacer in black and just to keep track of the Voyager ss washer there it is along with the much needed m10.
m2

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#6 dvb

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 12:43 PM

That is elegant, Manny - though beyond my non-existent machining facilities.

pm me if you'd care to make a washer/M10 "kit" available.

#7 deezdrama

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 04:26 PM

how does the oberwerk wooden tripod compare to the stock voyagers in size weight stifness?

Ive thought about getting one of these tripods for my voyager but dont know if it would be enough to get rid of shakes when mounting 120ed pro

#8 TONGKW

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 08:57 PM

I have adopted another solution to fit my Voyager mount onto my Oberwerk wood tripod.
I have removed the existing adapter on my Oberwerk and custom made a new top plate with a 3/8” hole

K W TONG
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C8 + CG-5GT, TSA102 + HEQ5 PRO, MK67 + Voyager Mount, WO ZS 80FD + Kenko NES, NexStar 6SE, WO Megrez 72 + Mizar K Mount, Mini Borg 50, C5, PST

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#9 TONGKW

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 08:59 PM

I have also changed the base of my Voyager mount to a custom made new base with 3/8” screw hole.
I can now mount my Voyager on my Oberwerk wood tripod with a 3/8” bolt.
My Voyager can also be used with my Gitzo 1415 tripod (length 19” closed and can carry 26 lb) and any sturdy photo tripod with a 3/8” screw on top.

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#10 Terrance

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 04:20 PM

OK, the "Azimuth Slow Motion Assembly" is attached to the "Aluminum Adapter Collar" by screwing the bottom of the slo mo assembly into the threads inside the adapter collar. That much I get, I think.

If you remove the Adapter collar from the slo mo assembly completely, is there a bolt hole on the bottom of the slo mo assembly, or can it only be attached to the adapter collar?

I am curious if you could still attach the AZ slo mo assembly directly to a tripod using an m10 bolt, without even using the AT azimuth adapter collar?

#11 TONGKW

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 01:54 AM

The original base plate of the Voyager mount (with the 10 mm bolt hole) is attached to the mount body by 3 “grub” screws. My new base plate (with the 3/8” bolt hole) is also attached by the same 3 “grub’ screws. The picture below shows both the original and new base plate.

K W TONG
----------------
C8 + CG-5GT, TSA102 + HEQ5 PRO, MK67 + Voyager Mount, WO ZS 80FD + Kenko NES, NexStar 6SE, WO Megrez 72 + Mizar K Mount, Mini Borg 50, C5, PST

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#12 Terrance

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 09:11 PM

OK! After a series of false tries, I finally got the ATV head into a apparently secure attachment to my Oberwerk tripod.

In the end I used what comes closest to DVB's method. 1st I got a washer about 3" in diameter with a central hole big enough for the smaller circular protrusion from the base of the mount head to fit into. I laid that washer over the top of the tripod's circular central opening. The washer was almost exactly the same diameter as the top of the tripod, so that the locking adapter "star circle" would then fit over it, and then locked into place. This meant looking down on the locking adapter revealed the silver washer locked into place. I then fit the mount head's circular cylinder into the hole in the washer so that protruded through the washer hole down into the tripod. I then got a smaller washer just wide enough so the it would not go up into the tripod and placed it on the bottom side of the tripod. Next to that I put the original washer from the ATV, and fit into that a longer M10 bolt and screwed the bolt through the bottom of the tripod up into the ATV bolt hole. This results in what so far appears to be a solid connection.

Being a certified mechanical idiot I knew I could not do any real modifications as others had done. At one point after experimenting with washers without success (I told you I was a mechanical idiot!) I took the rig to a dealer in the area and he thought it might fit if I simply drilled out the bolt hole in the Tripod's "puck" to fit the bolt the came with the ATV. The mount head was positioned on top of the old tripod puck after it was locked down and the bolted on with the ATV bolt running up from beneath.

This looked funny because their was a narrow cylinder with the bolt hole in it sitting on top of a much wider base and having a much wider mount head on top of it. I doubted the utility of this configuration. It worked for a bit but the mount head came loose and started to woble after 30 minutes of use so I ditched that configuration and started over, finally hitting on the method described above.

I note that VSP's work wonders for this configuration, reducing damping times at about 100x from tapping the leg and tube from about 3-5 seconds to about 1.5-2.5 seconds.

#13 Nick-Sydney

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 08:24 AM

Excellent info in this thread. I might have to try this myself someday!






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