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Opening a Tak EM-10

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#1 Craig

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 01:39 PM

I'm looking to crack open my Tak EM-10 mount in an effort to clean up / tighten / straighten things as needed. The trouble is, I'd like to have a vague clue as to how to go about it before I start and my current clue is less than vague.

If anyone can help ID some things, it would be greatly appreciated. I've put together a small gallery here. Now, many of labeled parts are rather obvious, but the labels may help when describing things. I know A and B are used to help adjust the backlash (as are G and H), but I've never been successful in doing much with them.

But, any guidance on taking things apart so I can actually see the worm assemblies and such would be a very helpful start.

Craig

#2 skyler

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 02:42 PM

Hi Craig -

Just sold mine which was a hybrid EM10/11 unit. Really an EM10 with EM11 motors. I was going to do the upgrade myself but when I got a pricing quote from AL at TNR, it was so reasonable which included the motors (I swapped him) that I decided to let him do the work. SOooo, I know a little about C,D,K,L,M.

C and D are the locations for the motor drive shafts. You will see the motors inside the mount when you take off the main control box K. The screws that hold the box onto the mount are the philips heads on all 4 corners of the box. The PC board is attached to the Temma box and it is connected to the motors via plastic connectors/wire harnesses.

M & L are the encoders so be careful with them. They are attached to the motor shafts by a locking metal collar that you can see if it is in the right position. What you will need to do is use a very small hex key to remove them since there is an allen screw recessed in a hole of the collar I mentioned. The encoder assemblies are attached to the Temma control box K for support so keep this in mind when removing the box since they will not go anywhere, including the box K, unless the encoder(s) are disconnected from the motor shafts first.

C & D with those spanner covers are access ports to the motor shafts from the other side. I thought those had to be torqued a specific amount when I removed them so I thought I was in trouble. Turns out not be be true and the reason I thought that was when the motor shaft turns, I could see that the shaft moved against the spanner covers but I was not sure until I spoke to Al.

BTW, any of this stuff might be info available from AL on a document that he might be able to copy/provide.

Think that is all I have at this point. Al ran me through some of the info you discussed but I could not take notes fast enough to get it all down. Plus my brain flat lined when I decided that I was going to send him the mount to do all the work.

Let me know if you have any other questions. You know where to find me.


S

#3 Craig

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 03:28 PM

Thanks Skyler -

I also found the AP600 Lubrication / Maintenance guide and these are at the very least, astoundingly similar mounts. Your bits add in the Temma components (silly - I thought those encoders were the motors...) with things like the torque on the plates (I've had one of those off and also thought it needed to be set just-right -- the other seems glued in place).

I'm going to start poking around in there and if it looks too bad, I'll drop TNR a line.

Did the mount end up being too lightweight for you? I've used mine for years but do bang into that limit.

Craig

#4 skyler

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 04:05 PM

Hi Craig -

I really wished I could have held onto it since it was such a nice and accurate mount. I like the PS scope on it better than the EM200. It had no weight issues with the limited use it got with my FSQ. But, I have been looking for a high capacity mount for a while that had more grunt than my EM200. I found a great fellow to work with near me on a sale of his NJP so I plan to use the NJP for the really heavy stuff and the lighter stuff goes to the EM200. Not too bad toting that EM200 around but the EM10/11 was so much more portable. If I had my way, I would have kept all three.

Those spanner caps/covers were a bugger to loosen. One was fine but the other was a real pain. I even had an adjustable spanner wrench practically built for it and it still required a strong but super steady hand to keep from marring them.

Let me know how it goes.


S

#5 tim53

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 04:22 PM

I've had great success with a C-8 on my EM10. I also put my 6" f/10 Newt on it, but it's a tad leveragey for that mount.

It had been at TNR for repairs a while back, and when I got it the new parts had been installed but nothing was tightened down. It seemed as though one person was tasked to put the new parts in, and another was tasked to set the backlash and tighten the screws, but forgot.

I had no trouble setting the backlash and getting the encoder setscrews tightened, though I do still have a problem with the HC plug on the mount - it doesn't always make contact (but the control through the PC cable works fine).

Anyway, adjusting the backlash between the spur gears was easy, and that's where most of your adjustment is likely to be. I'd be surprised if the worms need adjusting. Or, I'd try the spur gears (the motor mounting screws) first, if it were me.

-Tim.

#6 Craig

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Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:45 PM

Well, the mount has been torn down and put back together. Backlash and binding spots are gone. Now to await the dark...
Thanks!

Craig

#7 Craig

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Posted 18 August 2009 - 11:47 AM

Definitely much better - thanks again.

Craig

#8 skyler

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Posted 18 August 2009 - 12:32 PM

Gotta admit, Craig, that I am pretty jealous about your turn times.

I wish I had the time management to turn my work around so fast. Took a month to decide to get going on the Temma upgrade(was waiting for some docs). But I could have just gotten the prelims out of the way before finally just sending my mount in to get the work done on it instead.


S






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