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A Mystery Scope!

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#51 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 05:53 PM

This is the back of the RA worm gear block and motor assembly. 3 shims adjust the pressure against the ring gear. Two pins keep them in place. The two allen head bolts are in backwards just to keep the shims from falling off.

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#52 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 05:56 PM

Here is the RA ring gear, the two inside holes are for the pins that hold the shims in place and the outside holes are for the allen head bolts that mount the assembly in place. It's pretty clean in here but the ring gear wont budge.

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#53 tim53

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 05:58 PM

Where does anyone get enough water in Tucson to rust anything? :grin:

-Tim.

#54 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:00 PM

The Dec ring gear was a little more grungy. I also noticed that the shim pins were in the housing instead of the block, so maybe the RA shim pins can be the same - makes more sense if the shims are on the base and then the block is installed.

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#55 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:02 PM

Where does anyone get enough water in Tucson to rust anything? :grin:

-Tim.


It's been a wet winter this year, but normally, we just get the monsoon season in the summer and that's it. I think this telescope may have spent some time up in the mountains where it rains more often.

#56 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:12 PM

And here are the motors and wiring all off the mount! The shims are taped to the worm blocks so they wont get lost.

From left to right, the 3 indicator lights were not connected to anything at all (you're looking at the underside). The big orange capacitor is for the synchronous motor to operate in both directions, the RA and Dec motor and gear assemblies. Both motors are Hurst 2 RPM 120v AC. Finally, the electrical junction block with another round capacitor and the RA illuminated reticule. The blue wires on the top right go to one of the light bulbs that plug into the back of the reticules.

The wiring is not that complicated - two motors and two lights. I will probably redo this area a little to make it look neat by putting everything in a Radio Shack project box like I did on the Cave mount. The wiring is old and cracked with lots of chew marks from pack rats.

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#57 reddog15

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:16 PM

Looks like fun, you definitely got one of a kind and your work cut out for you,and like I said 1st "looks like fun" ;)

#58 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:17 PM

Once the shell clamp for the polar alignment scope was loosened up, it slide right off. The knob was very rusty, but it was going into aluminum, so it was no big deal to budge it loose.

On the underside, there is what looks like a AA battery mount. This DC voltage is probably for the illuminated reticule. The wiring also goes to a jack that was for something. There is another jack on that junction board and also one on the motor driven focuser block.

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#59 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:36 PM

Now that everything is off the RA and Dec housings, the Dec shaft is ready to come out. I was concerned that the rust on the Dec shaft would need to be cleaned up before sliding it out, but it turns out the diameter below the retainer ring (which is threaded on and secured with a bolt) is smaller than the upper part of the shaft, so it's going to slide up and out without any trouble hitting the white plastic sleeve bearing.

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#60 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:40 PM

And out it goes! The area of the shaft sealed from the elements is in good shape. This is a hollow shaft with 1" ID and 1.75" OD.

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#61 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:41 PM

Looks like fun, you definitely got one of a kind and your work cut out for you,and like I said 1st "looks like fun" ;)


It's fun, but the funner part is after everything is cleaned up, painted, lubed and ready to be put back together again. The not-fun part is rust and old paint removal.

#62 akman1955

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:43 PM

:jump:start sandblasting..greatjob. :bow:.john

#63 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:46 PM

Teflon (not sure what kinda) plastic sleeve bearings are used on the Dec shaft. I was kind of surprised because I thought roller bearings like on the Cave mounts would be much better, but this mount is very sturdy anyway.

The dried out rusty goo on the aluminum parts will clean up easy and then it's just a lot of polishing.

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#64 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:53 PM

The RA shaft is also secured with a threaded retainer ring. Once removed, I find a bushing pressed into the shaft that I gently worked off. On the other end was another bushing as well, but once the bottom one was off, the shaft was able to be removed quite easily.

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#65 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 06:57 PM

Here's a closeup of the RA sleeve bearing (same on both ends). They are only about 1/2" long, but seem to work well.

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#66 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:01 PM

The RA shaft is in very good shape. The ring gear wont budge though. All I'm doing today is getting the major pieces off and then will start on those one at a time. Kind of like assessing what needs to be done before getting real serious ;)

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#67 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:05 PM

The three knobs that hold the base to the pier cap are removed. There are three "dogs" (I guess their dogs, might be some other name for them) that slide inside the groove to allow the entire mount to be rotated in azimuth. During install, these parts would be attached to the knobs on the underside of the base and then lined up to where the three holes are so that they can be seated and turned into the slots.

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#68 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:08 PM

The three bolts that hold the cap to the column are removed, along with the eyepiece holder, and look what I found! I though it was dead, it wasn't, but is now!

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#69 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:10 PM

Fortunately, this one was already dead, neighbor of the spider.

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#70 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:13 PM

Here's a closeup of the latitude adjustment assembly. It doesn't turn at all, due to some rusted collars near the knob end.

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#71 Datapanic

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:14 PM

That's all for today! The stand column and legs are apart, and there's a couple things interesting about them, but I'll save that for tomorrow.

#72 akman1955

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 07:15 PM

:shocked:my god..glad i dont have these in alaska...had too chase cow moose and two calfs out of yard this morning too let dogs out..john

#73 Lew Chilton

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:03 PM

The maker was obviously familiar with what was available on the amateur telescope market and thought he could do better than what was then available. He seems to have thought out every detail of the mounting and tube assembly - and succeeded in spades!

The mirror blank was obviously made by Corning Glass Works of New York. (My two 8-inch mirrors, one by Coast Instrument and one by Cave, are Corning glass that were both aluminized by Panchro, but neither had their backs ground flat like yours.)

I lived within a 30-minute bicycle ride of Signal Hill, Calif. from 1955 to 1960, was a rabid amateur astronomer and telescope maker but never heard of Morvac. The only places that I ever knew of that did aluminizing for telescope mirrors in Southern California in those days were Panchro and Keim.

There was a Nye Optical Co. on Cherry Ave. on Signal Hill, which I visited a number of times for mirror making supplies. (I donated a 1958 Nye catalog to Bob Provin for his Classic Telescopes and Catalogs website. Here's a link to it. On page 7, it mentions that aluminizing service was furnished, but I think they used Panchro and/or Keim, the same that nearby Cave and Coast Instrument used.)

http://geogdata.csun...s/nye/nye58.pdf

Perhaps the maker of your 8-inch had professional connections to Morvac on Signal Hill, which may have only done optical coatings for industry. Maybe they aluminized this mirror as a favor or as a "G-Job." :question:

Dan, so glad you're the one who found this scope. In your hands, it'll be brought back to better than new condition. Looking forward to the progress reports!

Lew

P.S. Oh, by the way, here's a picture of my Corning Glass Works 3-inch ashtray that was made as a sourvenir to commemmorate the successful pouring of the 200" Palomar Pyrex blank. I found it on the Bay a few years ago.

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#74 The_Vagabond

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:16 PM

Fortunately, this one was already dead, neighbor of the spider.

Not dead; that's a skin. Little fella probably lived a bit longer.
Also, no signs of black widows... yet. You need to look for sizeable egg sacs that should be fairly smooth, between 6mm and 8mm (possibly up to 12mm) in diameter. If you come across egg sacs of similar size but a little spikey looking, thems brown widow's. And they can be just as nasty...

#75 Bob Myler

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:45 PM

In 1958, Radiometers were were marketed as cutting edge by Nye Optical. Ahhh, just one of many new scientific marvels displayed in Buhl Planetarium's product showcase - that fired the imagination of this 10 year old boy. Life goes full circle. Today, my Dealers use them to demonstrate low emissivity glass.






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