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I made a Half Pier for CG4, the process-

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#1 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 03:02 AM

Hallo friends, Atlast I seem to do it :)
Although this is a small job for you, I still felt to share what I made.
I live near the equator in the East. So you can see in the picture that the polar altitude of the mount comes very low(around 19degrees).

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This creates a problem that, the counter weight and rod touches the tripod legs. Doesn't work even if I fit the mount in other direction to set the counterweight rod in between two legs. No use adding counterweight and elevating them.

#2 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 03:03 AM

So I decided to make a Wooden Half Pier.
Here are the illustrations-

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I was going to carve the Push Block projection in wood in the top. Roy told me that the wooden Push Block on the top will be too weak and break easily when mounted. So he asked me to drill a nut on it instead.

#3 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 03:04 AM

As Illustrated I coupled the central axel with a Threaded Rod using a coupler nut.

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#4 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 03:05 AM

I got the cylinder carved in Teak Wood from a workshop by giving them the illustrated format. Then fine tuned it myself according to the tripod head and the mount base. Instead of wooden push block, I screwed the piece of threaded rod on the top, (20mm deep screwed as told by Roy).

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The semi-final Half Wooden Pier on the tripod head. Havent final finished externally yet-
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Fitted the mount on it completely. The Half Pier after fine tuning is 19.4cm (around 7.6inches)-
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The whole thing feels great, like a one piece. But I am still refusing myself to attach the telescope and counterweight.
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can you tell me whether it will be strong enough? What more should I do to it to make it very strong and stiffest?

thank you
good wishes
see you
Ketan

#5 Darenwh

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:41 AM

That looks great.... I think you did an excellent job with it.

#6 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 11:48 AM

Daren :) thanks

will it be strong enough to hold the rest of equipments?

#7 Roy McCoy

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 12:03 PM

Hi Ketan,

Really nice job.

The pier will be strong enough, because of the way you built it. All of the holding force is essentially done with the threaded rod. Even though it is longer, it is still as strong as it was before.

Wood makes a great spacer. Think of how construction companies use wood to support extremely heavy loads.

The only thing I believe you need to pay attention to is this setup will now be more top heavy. Everyone who raises there scopes must deal with this. Go slow when balancing and be aware the whole time.

Again, great job!

Roy

#8 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 12:20 PM

Hallo Roy
thank you for appreciating and help
Please tell me, what do you mean by 'Go slow when balancing?'
what will it suffer with?

#9 94bamf

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 12:53 PM

Nice job, thanks for the pictures. I kept wondering if there was a way to do this with wood. Obviously the answer is yes. I can't stand the idea of spending $85+ for the Orion version.

Ken

#10 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:28 PM

Hallo Ken
85$ is far away, it can be made in much cheaper cost. Junk cost.
especially if you will use the wood of old furniture, it will be really strong. Oak and ash wood are the strongest for this. I did not find them at my place. :(
The wood got split when I was screwing the small piece of threaded rod on the top of the pier.(you can see a patch of adhesive there) It got fixed because I already had put some raisin adhesive before bolting it.
I used new Teak wood, so I am still thinking several times before attaching the equipments.

As Anthony said, I will also try to make it using simple metal pieces. aluminum or steel.

#11 Roy McCoy

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 02:34 PM

Please tell me, what do you mean by 'Go slow when balancing?'
what will it suffer with?



Hi Ketan,

Nothing really to suffer with. I meant it is good that to be tentative and simply take your time with your new setup, it is similar but not quite the same.

#12 Ketan

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 11:51 PM

Hallo Daren, Roy and friends,
This Half Pier is 7.6inches. When I make another one, a shorter one will be better, isn't it?

#13 Roy McCoy

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 12:11 AM

Hi Ketan,

Shorter = Better depends on what you want. In terms of more stable, then yes. You can go lower until the counterweight hits the leg.

If you like the height in terms of viewing comfort, then shorter may not be necessary.

Have you tried it out yet? You may really like what you have as it is.

Best Regards,

Roy

#14 Roy McCoy

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 12:18 AM

BTW

If you are having trouble with push block threading into the wood, simply drill the hole large enough to allow the rod to slip in. Then use the resin to lock it in. (on the next half pier if you so decide)

#15 Ketan

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 01:24 AM

Yes main cause was the counterweight hitting the tripod legs, and the raising of scope for viewing comfort is bonus, lets see.

ok :) I will try what I have made first and see the stability
drilling bigger hole and resin to lock will be good idea, thanks.

#16 Patrick

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 10:20 AM

Nice job Ketan!

Patrick

#17 Ketan

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 01:57 PM

Thanks Patrick :) :) :)
Please come again all, I am still doing something interesting to it... :D

#18 mclewis1

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Posted 20 March 2010 - 04:23 PM

Ketan, Nice work.

I don't think you have to worry about the strength of the extension with a scope and counterweights. All the forces on the wooden extension would be compression (squeezing) forces and a nice solid piece of teak would be very very strong this way.

The one area of concern is the part that you've already had a problem with - the Azimuth post. Using rosin glue to fix that area was a good idea. It's very strong, but if you were still worried about it maybe just something like a pipe clamp (like this) installed around the whole extension at the top would ensure that it wouldn't break in the future. Even if there was a problem it is really only going to be the bolt/post tearing out and that should not affect the support of the mount/scope. In actual use the only time there should be any heavy load on the post is during polar alignment. You can reduce the loads on the post by making the area of contact between the mount and the extension very smooth so there is as little friction as possible when you adjust the azimuth position. Loosening the central axle will also help this but too much and the polar alignment will change when you tighten it back up. Maybe another bit of low friction material like teflon or just some hard plastic between the extension and the mount would help? It might take a little bit of work but you should be able to get the mount to move smoothly in azimuth on the extension without too much force and then there should be no potential to break the bolt out.

#19 Ketan

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 03:08 AM

Hallo Mark
thank you for telling me all this.
I will show and come back after I do it :)

see you

#20 Doug76

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 07:57 AM

Nice job, really nice, and you won't have any problems with this extension being strong enough for you equipment.
Are you going to finish it or paint it?

#21 Ketan

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 12:34 PM

Doug
thank you :)
I am going to finish it and keep a natural look
I will show soon :) , will write you a message

#22 Scott Beith

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 06:42 AM

That turned out GREAT!!! :bow:

#23 Ketan

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 02:26 AM

Hallo friends :)
Look at the final finished pier now.
I treated it with microwave oven, and epoxy adhesive.
Posted Image

see you

#24 Roy McCoy

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 11:10 AM

Excellent! Looks really nice.

Now it is your turn to answer the questions.

Is is strong enough?

Is it well balanced and stable?

Is the height good to view from?

How do you like it?


Best Regards,

Roy

#25 Ketan

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 02:50 PM

Hallo Roy,
it is strong enough. :) . after I gave it a few rounds of blasts in microwave oven, and almost soaked it in epoxy.

It seems well balanced. Half Pier and without Pier, the bubble waterlevel on the mount shows no difference.
The height is good to view from, not all people for terrestrial or horizontal viewing though. :D
I think, if I make another one, I will prefer one or 1.5 inch shorter than this one.
Major benefit is, I am able to use the 19 degree altitude or even lower, so makes me use counter weight at any level without hitting the tripod.
The wood will help dampen any vibrations. right?

I like it, but haven't used. still have to leave it aside, to get the coatings cured completely.

thank you :)

see you






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