CGE stops slewing
Posted 28 July 2010 - 01:07 PM
Posted 28 July 2010 - 01:50 PM
Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:37 PM
Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:33 AM
He had a CGE that died and was selling the parts here on CN back in early June.
Posted 29 July 2010 - 10:11 AM
If the enconder was bad chances are it wouldn't work in either direction, at least if missing encoder data, mine just runs aimlessly in both directions.
BandB, first thing I'd try is to loosen the entire worm blok assy without and wieght - strip off the ota and cw/shaft, cw's, loosen the two hex bolts under the motor block in the head assy, and try repositioning the worm gear. The screws are a bit difficult to break loose (mine were loc-tited or thread locked) but can be done with a shallow 'I think' 11mm box end wrench.
It's extremely difficult to view the worm to gear mesh as the motor block assy obscures the view, can be seen from extreme side angle though after top cover removed. There should be some thin spacers between the motor block and the head housing on the same side as the worm gear exposure.
If you've cleaned the brush motors you must be pretty familiar with all this already. My question is how does the motor behave under 'no-load' condition, and follow up is how did those little motor bearing feel when turned by hand? Same goes for the little bearings holding the worm. All can be adjusted from the outer side, you may need to make you own tool from a flatblade screwdriver or possibly better an offset flatblade if you dont have a tiny inside bearing
sleeve tool. Also these have some sort of loc-tite or thread lock on them so can be a little tricky to break loose.
Anyway, it all falls under the mechanical checks near the motor/worm assy, then checking the orintation of the worm wrt the main gear for the head assy. I imagine it much more likely to become sloppy with wear than binding in one direction - so this is a long shot. Another long shot is to check the feel of the tapered and radial thrust bearings in the head assy for any directional binding. It's east to do when the motor block / worm removed, or otherwise not in the mechanical path. These can be replaced on the cheap from any good bearing company if need be. I bought replacement tapered bearings for I think about $25- and the little radial(s - upper and lower different size)) were much less.
EDIT - oops! just read you already checked the mechanicals... sorry about that. You're right Pittmann won't talk about the motor assy, it's proprietary to 'C'. I tried too a while back and no joy there. When I was corresponding with the folks at 'C' they wanted quite a bit of $$ (I think it was ~$400) for the entire motor/worm assy and was no sub-assy other than the tiny bearings (mentioned above) they'd talk about.
Posted 29 July 2010 - 01:56 PM
Posted 30 July 2010 - 12:16 AM
 OK .. so then you did test the feel of the DEC assy for worn/bad bearings when the motor was out? I recommend doing from either end of the bearing shaft with a wrench - if there is a bad bearing it's easy to feel.
Posted 31 July 2010 - 06:11 AM
Posted 31 July 2010 - 10:18 AM
Could be a faulty/broken wire somewhere on yours though. The trouble is, they are so hard to diagnose. I wish I was more knowledgable in electronics, drives me nuts.
Good luck with it.
Posted 01 August 2010 - 01:45 PM
As far as bearings go, I'm no expert, just that it is relatively easy to completey check vs. the electronincs. And many have reported better perfromance re-lubing them including myself. There is a whopper of a nut one the bottom or lower end of each shaft where you can adjust the bearing pre-load, but getting loose can be a chore. I believe Joe C. had a fairly complete method there with images. I had ordered several extra boards for help TS'ing the electronics. One of the issues I had was a warped bearing, but couldn't nail it until I disassembled the entire shaft and inspected them.