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Parks 10" Superior restoration

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#1 Aircoffee

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:13 PM

:help: Hi all, Looking for some help and advice. I'm completely new to telescope and I stumbled across a great deal on this scope. The mirror was confirmed by Parks Optical to be a 10"/F6.1 and to my untrained eye looks to be in very good shape. The scope is about 20 years old. The mount needs tlc (bad paint, rusty hardware, but it all works). There is one problem with the mount. It has a drive motor broken off. The motor label says it's from hanksmotors in Reedburg, Wisconsin and runs at 1 rpm. Was this even the correct motor? It's for moving the scope left to right (when the balance weight is down vertically). Already looked at Jupiter with a 25mm Parks Gold lens and what appears to be a Parks adjustable barlow. WOW!! My daughter and her friends can't wait to look through this scope. Any advice on upgrades, pictures, restoration processes, etc. all welcome. Please. :bow:

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#2 mustgobigger

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:47 PM

hi,
welcome to CN.
i had a parks with a broken Dec motor and yes that is the correct motor. you can still get the motor online.
ill look up the link later when i get home.
looks like you got yourself a keeper.
congrats on a nice find.
Brian

#3 mustgobigger

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:50 PM

here you go. LINK

#4 gnowellsct

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 08:59 PM

:help: Hi all, Looking for some help and advice. I'm completely new to telescope and I stumbled across a great deal on this scope. The mirror was confirmed by Parks Optical to be a 10"/F6.1 and to my untrained eye looks to be in very good shape. The scope is about 20 years old. The mount needs tlc (bad paint, rusty hardware, but it all works). There is one problem with the mount. It has a drive motor broken off. The motor label says it's from hanksmotors in Reedburg, Wisconsin and runs at 1 rpm. Was this even the correct motor? It's for moving the scope left to right (when the balance weight is down vertically). Already looked at Jupiter with a 25mm Parks Gold lens and what appears to be a Parks adjustable barlow. WOW!! My daughter and her friends can't wait to look through this scope. Any advice on upgrades, pictures, restoration processes, etc. all welcome. Please. :bow:


You need to raise the RA axis to the same number of degrees as your latitude. You're in MN, the mount in the picture is set for observing somewhere in Mexico.

That will improve your tracking and allow your setting circles to work too.

Adjustment of the RA axis is always a clunky and inaccurate business with these old mounts, it is one of their chief defects in comparison to modern alternatives. Basically you'll have to get an angle measuring gizmo (with the swinging needle) at Home depot, put it on the RA shaft, and do your best.

Even if your motors are not operational this will improve the functionality of the scope, because you can then "track" just by pushing on one axis.

Greg N

#5 pstarr

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:15 PM

Here is a quick how to on how to align your mount as Greg has mentioned. Great scope, your going to really enjoy it.

#6 albert1

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:22 PM

You found a wonderful telescope Aircoffee. It looks in great shape too. Those Gold series eyepieces are excellent, I use them in my binoviewers for superb views.

Restoration? Check out this thread . Dan is one of our resident master telescope restorers and you'll find in that thread a whole lot of great techniques with pictures and just a complete understanding of how to get your new beauty back to original or better condition.

BTW, welcome to the Classics forum and don't forget to keep us posted. Good luck.

#7 Aircoffee

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 11:24 PM

Thanks for the responses. I greatly appreciate the help. When I was viewing, I had it up around 44 degrees to match the latitude. Guessing it was in storage for many years.

#8 Datapanic

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 11:40 PM

Hi Paul!

Welcome to the CN Classics Forum! You certainly have a nice scope and it looks to be in very good condition as well. I guess the first thing to do is assess what needs to be done and then take it from there. The best thing to do during a restore is to take lots of pictures (and post them here) and take lots of notes. Detailed pictures and notes will definitely help when putting it together again.

I don't know of any documented Parks restores, so chronicling your progress here is a great way to help others that come after you.

Remember, the first rule of telescope restoration is to never use a hammer. Rubber mallets are okay.

We're looking forward to seeing you go for it and look forward to seeing the progress!

#9 Aircoffee

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 12:49 AM

I just ordered a replacement motor from "Edmunds Scientific. The drive motor is manufactured by "hmimotors", model 3440, 12 volt, 1 rpm. As I continue working on this scope, I'll post info and pictures. :)
I also need help with a wiring diagram for the hand controller. The original hand control is missing. Thought it shouldn't be a problem to make a new one.

#10 Ham Radio

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 07:09 AM

Hi Paul, I might be able to help you out on figuring out the wiring if needed. Send me a pm to let me know where you are and we will see how far you are from me.

#11 Aircoffee

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 07:03 PM

At the attachment point for the DE motor, am I missing a gear or does this shaft come out? I noticed on the threaded shaft that there is a set screw. If it does need a gear, anybody know what size and # of teeth?

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#12 mustgobigger

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:00 PM

no gear needed.
set screw tightens down on the flat on motor shaft.
looks like that one should come out.
on the other side of bracket mine had a screw that you loosen when you want to adjust dec by hand.
that way you do not strip gears in that chintzy little motor.
Brian

#13 Aircoffee

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:04 PM

Thanks Brian, that's what I thought, but I don't want to take anything for granted with this scope. Here's another pic. This one is on the backside of the RA drive. What's that knob and the white lever for? I have had the cover off and looked at what appears to be a clutch drive. Pic's of that later. I've taken over 30 pics so far.

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#14 mustgobigger

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:14 PM

yes,
thats what it is.
same as the one i had.
a little cleanup and some*BLEEP* screws and it will look good .
i had model HIT 10"
if you look it up on parks website the mount is the same.
Brian

#15 Jim Rosenstock

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 12:58 PM

a little cleanup and some*BLEEP* screws and it will look good .


Where can I find *BLEEP* screws? :question:

Seriously, I can usually figure out what the censor program deleted, but not here. Can you, ummm, find anothr way to write it? :question:

Jim

#16 PiSigma

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 02:54 PM

I'm betting it was an abbreviation for Stainless Steel....

#17 PiSigma

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 02:57 PM

Welcome to CN Paul.

I can't help much with your Parks but if it's anything like a Cave it all comes apart fairly easily and should be fun to refinish and restore.

Looking forward to pictures of the process...

#18 Aircoffee

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 04:41 PM

Thanks Jon. It looks to be a lot like your Cave. The paint is yellowing, so I plan to repaint it. Maybe orange and white with a big "T" on the side. :lol: (did I mention,...I grew up in East Tennessee). Actually, Dan has inspired me to get to work on the mount and clean this baby up. Honestly not sure about the tube color yet, but it will be refinished.

Take care (saw your scopes....nice collection!)

#19 mustgobigger

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:11 PM

I'm betting it was an abbreviation for Stainless Steel....

PiSigma,
your right.

#20 GeneT

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 07:00 PM

Looks like things are nicely shaping up and you will have a great telescope.

#21 Aircoffee

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 11:31 PM

OK, so I started disassembling the scope tonight and I finally found where you keep the electrical tape! :question: Now why didn't I think to look inside the focuser sooner. :roflmao:

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#22 albert1

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 11:46 PM

Don't be too quick to throw it out. That may be where the guy kept his stash of diamonds rolled up. :cool:

#23 Aircoffee

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 11:55 PM

I took the aluminum rings off the ends of the scope tonight using a wooden wedge. Very carefully I slowly worked around the edge of the tube where it meets the rings. I'm sure the more experienced folks can vouch for this. If you pry to hard or get in a rush, you stand a good chance of bending the aluminum. These rings will need some sanding, but should buff out to a nice shine.

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#24 Aircoffee

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 12:00 AM

When I pulled out the primary mirror assembly, I noticed that when you hold the mirror up to a light you can see "light spots through the surface of the mirror. Can anyone explain this to me? Does this mean the mirror should be recoated? If needed, I'm considering the shop in Iowa City, Iowa or Nova Optical in Utah. Advice is very welcome. :) The secondary is a lot of spots too, but I'm not sure yet if that's just dust or surface damage.

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#25 Aircoffee

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 12:01 AM

Here's a picture of the primary mirror. Notice the spots. (not the camera flash) haha

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