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Rebuilding WW2 M3 Binoculars

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#1 hutch

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 12:02 PM

How hard is it to rebuild this type? I have a display of 101st Airborne gear and the Binos are a little hazy. I would like to clean the lenses and lubricate any mechanism that might need it. Keeping the outside patina intact. There is also a threaded ring that is broken where the left ocular housing screws into the body. How to replace that? Do I need to just get a parts body from Surplus shed?
Thank you! :help:

#2 hallelujah

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 01:32 PM

Contact Cory Suddarth at www.suddarthoptical.com

#3 Simon S

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 01:31 PM

Hutch, this is a tough binocular to get into as it's built like a tank.
Not all M3's are the same, who made it?
If the thread is broken in the body this binocular is really scrap.
Sorry.

#4 marcelof

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 05:28 PM

Which is exactly? Have you Simon someone in your arsenal?

#5 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 05:59 PM

Hi Simon:

I am sure I have worked on M3s (AS A CIVILIAN), but if memory serves, it is no different than the Navy's MK28. What do you see as making it inordinately difficult to work on?

Cheers,

Bill

#6 hutch

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 07:23 PM

Guys- Thanks for your reponse! @ Halleluja... I want to do them myself. @ Simon... I am a patient man and not afraid to get the proper tools. If it went together, it will come apart! @Bill,what do you think about what Simon stated about the Binos now being scrap. I guess I just find another
WESTINGHOUSE body, or will the Nash-Kelvinator body work?

#7 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 07:28 PM

Hi Hutch:

Most Navy Binos from that era (about 8 subcontractors) were made under contract from Bausch & Lomb. Some were made almost exactly to the B & L specs. Others differed here and there. I can't remember all the subtle differences.

I can say without hesitation that your biggest problem is going lie with collimation, once it's back together; you need to look into how the eccentrics work before starting that part of the operation.

A couple of hints:

1) If you really want it clean, you must separate the two prisms on the cluster and clean the facing surfaces. Many people think if they leave them together they can avoid collimation. Not only is this not so, they are avoiding the place responsible for the MOST “fogging.” One dirty surface through which light must pass is worse than 4 surfaces where it doesn’t.

2) When removing the clips from the apex of the prisms, you will release some tiny pieces of cork that lost their compression decades ago.

You can replace this with tiny pieces of bicycle inner tube—you may need to fold it over to provide two thicknesses to give enough compression.

There is talk that goes around from time to time indicating prisms are held in place by EITHER straps over the apex OR glue tabs at the corners. Yet speaking as a tech, and not an armchair optician, I say you need BOTH.

Many binos from that era had “prism collars.” Some of them had mini cams at the corners to orient the prism EXACTLY as needed before being tightened in place. Others, as the one pictured below, had extra metal on the inside corners which were to be worked with a small jeweler’s half-round or rat-tail file until the correct orientation was obtained.

Good luck; have fun.

BillC

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#8 hutch

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 07:31 PM

:confused:

Most from tha

huh?

Bill, would the TM pub on ebay be a good place to start?

#9 marcelof

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 07:51 PM

¿ Tha? :question:

#10 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 08:15 PM

:confused:

Most from tha

huh?

Bill, would the TM pub on ebay be a good place to start?


"tha" . . . A slip of the fingers; give a cripple a break!

What TM pub?

Bill

#11 hutch

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 08:50 PM

There is a Training Manual relating to M3 and others dated 1972 on ebay right now. Actually there are 10 available. Being an ex Navy(me too, LAMPS AW/ Rescue Swimmer) Optics guy I posted this pic thinking you might like it, something I recently bought on craigslist, even though it is not a Binocular. Thanks for your info!

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#12 hutch

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 08:57 PM

And is this good gouge for collimation??
http://barska.com/co...ation_bc201.pdf

#13 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 09:00 PM

Consider THAT photo stolen!!! That's one of the cleanest units I've ever seen.

No, let me refrase that; that is THE cleanest unit I've ever seen.

Cheers,

BillC

#14 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 09:01 PM

PS And you're welcome!
Bill

#15 hutch

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 09:19 PM

.....that is THE cleanest unit I've ever seen.

Cheers,

BillC


Hey Bill.. I forgot to show you this :jump:

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#16 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 10:13 PM

Now, you're just showin' off. :shocked:

BillC

#17 BillC

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 10:36 PM

I can do that, too. I designed (including objective), and have the intellectual rights to this one--the Baywatch Telescope. You can get more info at the Captain's Nautical Supplies site.

Men's Health Magazine called it, ". . . a telescope to build a beach house around!"

Cheers,

Bill

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#18 hutch

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 02:15 AM

.....the Baywatch Telescope. Very beautiful!

Men's Health Magazine called it, ". . . a telescope to build a beach house around!" .....I would have to concur.

Hutch

#19 mercedes_sl1970

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 03:20 AM

Getting off topic, but what a beaut scope (the brass one). Just need a house with a view... Well, we had one until a neighbor built up.

Andrew

#20 BillC

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 12:37 PM

.....the Baywatch Telescope. Very beautiful!

Men's Health Magazine called it, ". . . a telescope to build a beach house around!" .....I would have to concur.

Hutch


If you knew the sucker weighed 38 pounds you would concur more. It cost money to take the weight OFF and the high-rollers liked the weight ON . . . SO!

Thanks for the kind words.

BillC

#21 BillC

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 12:39 PM

.....the Baywatch Telescope. Very beautiful!

Men's Health Magazine called it, ". . . a telescope to build a beach house around!" .....I would have to concur.

Hutch


If you knew the sucker weighed 38 pounds you would concur more. It cost money to take the weight OFF and the high-rollers liked the weight ON . . . SO!

Thanks for the kind words.

BillC

#22 Joad

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 12:50 PM

And so, back to the topic.

#23 hutch

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 03:41 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

BillC [/quote]

It is amazing to me to see and know you have designed that, the kindest and most informative words have been yours Chief.

Respectfully,
John Hutchinson


So....anybody else have any words of wisdom on repairing M3 Binoculars???? Sorry about going off my original topic! :foreheadslap:

#24 KennyJ

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 05:35 PM

Whilst being fully aware of ( and in personal agreement with ) the reasons why a more ruthless approach to the moderation of this forum was decided upon a few months ago , I'm thankful that at least a modicum of camaradarie and expressed kindness , on topic or not , can be retained on this forum .

It's one of the crucial ingredients that made this very forum my favourite " internet chat room " in the first place .

Kenny

#25 Pinewood

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 11:18 AM

Hello Hutch,

How are you doing on the binocular? Are you still looking for parts?

I needed an eye cup for an M3 and ended up buying a broken down binocular, with uncoated optics, on that electronic auction site. It was missing a beauty ring , and I removed an eye guard and the reticle. I looked through it, last night, and aside from the missing beauty ring and one cracked and chipped eye guard, it suffered from a lot of dirt.

I suspect that with patience you can find something useful on that auction site.

Happy collecting,
Arthur PInewood






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