I've read of premium dob buyers cutting trusses to the proper length upon arrival of their scope. Loosening the collimation bolts a turn or two is nothing...
If it doesn't come to focus, it is not really an eyepiece. Swing and a miss from TV.
And as far as moving the mirror forward a tiny bit with collimation, 1. what does the scope's manufacturer say about that? 2. why should have screw around with that? Shouldn't the eyepiece work with commercially produced scopes as they are? I can see mickey mousing it with an eyepiece made from spare lenses you got from Surplus Shed or with a DIY scope, but not a "premium" "EP" on a Newt that works with ever other EP.
Are you sure the scope works with *every* other EP? Do you own every other EP and have you tried them all? I'm sure there are a few others out there that won't work in that scope too unless the mirror is moved forward -- and the numbers will be even larger if you want to use a barlow or a Paracorr as they both require more in-focus.
I know that to use my 31T5 Nagler with a Paracorr and have it achieve focus in my LB I need to make sure the mirror isn't pulled all the way back. I prefer to have my cell pulled back as it stiffens the cell and ensures it won't shift. However, I do need to run it relaxed just a bit to make that combination work. Luckily it's not enough to make it to where cell shift is a problem. Would you also claim that a Terminagler/Paracorr combination is a swing and a miss??