You still need the laser. The sight tube is step #1. Rotate and adjust the secondary till it shows a centered profile in the "field" of the sight tube. Normally, the MNs don't have a vertical adjustment for the secondary but if you tighten/loosen the three screws by the same amount, it will move up or down and usually only a small amount is needed. Rotation for my Intes M-N is harder to achieve and requires loosening the retaining ring of the secondary (which itself has a tiny hex set-screw in it). If the Chinese ES scope is a clone of the Intes ones, you should have something similar. At this point, it may still look elliptical but it should be symmetric in the sight tube. After this, you insert the laser and adjust tilt till you hit the center but before you proceed, iterate on the secondary-in-sight-tube again till both are perfect. When this is done, the secondary should look circular in the sight tube and equidistant from the tube walls. Only then start adjusting the primary.
IOW, this is just like adjusting a Newt except in ONE crucial detail: in a Newt, the aperture stop is at the MIRROR. In a Mak-Newt, it is at the CORRECTOR. This means that the Newt can tolerate misalignment between tube and optics (usually requiring an adjustment of focuser tilt) but in a Mak-Newt, the corrector, tube and focuser better be square from the beginning or you will start blubbering from frustration soon
If you have Suiter's Star Testing book, he's got a good explanation for the principles and method of collimating Newts as well as a method for making sure your focuser is square to the tube.
Finally I should say that for your short focal ratio, the secondary offset may become important for even illumination of the field. However, I've never understood this properly as it's not critical for my needs (my scope's an f/6 and has a small secondary anyway). If you have a concern here, talk to the reflector guys especially starman1.