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#51 csrlice12

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 10:42 AM

Cheers for that, Jim.

My concern about a case like this would be strength. Looking at it, I don't see any sort of joints (LOOKS like he's just dadoed the ends to the pieces sit flush), so I'm assuming it's held together by glue. Granted, a decent carpenter's glue would likely see the wood fail before the bond would. I'd be a bit worried about the handle, too. Carrying it from the lid like the WW cases would make me think there's a lot of stress on what could only be 1/4" screws holding on those clasps, as well as whatever's holding the handle on (looks like t-nuts in the lid)

I was thinking 1/2" as opposed to 3/8". Was actually pondering using the 3/4" as-is, but the extra weight would be a pain, and likely cause as many issues as it'd solve. (And be overkill in the process)

My concern isn't the about the strength of the box. I'm concerned that it looks so beautiful that I would want to put the entire thing in a pelican case to keep it looking that way.


:waytogo:

#52 mark8888

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:06 PM

That red LED light is slick!


Wow, yeah, it totally is.

I want it. :p



#53 Mark Peterman

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:10 PM

I really like my Wood Wonders EP case. Very well built and no worries about anything falling apart.

I think the hardware could be nicer on such a nice box but that's the only improvement I can see.

#54 Doug D.

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:52 PM

I agree withe Mark - the only improvement I would have liked on my cherished case (and been willing to pay for) would have been higher quality solid brass hardware. The hardware used seems to be perfectly functional but just doesn't quite match the excellent materials, workmanship and quality of the box itself.

With regard to the handle at top maybe not being the best design choice I would point out one major benefit. The box is always carried upright. I had a fairly nice wooden ep box earlier (not one of Ron's) with a pair of handles at the sides requiring you to carry like a serving tray. All well and good but the urge to "one handle it" with long axis of case perpendicular to the ground was a worry - not good for all those eps to fall out of their holes!

#55 Kildar13x

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:49 PM

Now I know what to get my dad for his birthday :jump:

#56 ubermick

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 11:18 PM

The handle placement is one of my areas of concern in terms of strength. I understand the cases are solid oak and therefore fairly durable, but there's just a half inch (guessing) of wood that *could* tear, causing several hundred (thousand!) dollars worth of eyepieces and goodies to crash to the floor in a heap. Carrying it from the sides, while cumbersome, at least alleviates that somewhat.

#57 ThreeD

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 01:49 AM

The handle placement is one of my areas of concern in terms of strength. I understand the cases are solid oak and therefore fairly durable, but there's just a half inch (guessing) of wood that *could* tear, causing several hundred (thousand!) dollars worth of eyepieces and goodies to crash to the floor in a heap. Carrying it from the sides, while cumbersome, at least alleviates that somewhat.

It appears from other photos of these cases on the Wood Wonders website that the fasteners for the handles aren't wood screws -- they appear to be machine screws that fasten to tee nuts on the inside of the case lid.

I'm not a mechanical engineer but if I remember my engineering mechanics classes correctly I would be more concerned with side mounted handles due to the moment arm and flexure of the fasteners rather than a chunk of solid red oak tearing out. Since they aren't wood screws the failure won't be from screws pulling out of wood they are threaded into -- it would take a catastrophic failure of the piece of solid red oak that makes up the top.

#58 csrlice12

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 09:14 AM

:it would take a catastrophic failure of the piece of solid red oak that makes up the top.:

...or just being clumsey and dropping it regardless where the handles are.......

#59 Mark Peterman

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 09:40 AM

ThreeD is correct, the handle uses machine screws that fasten to tee nuts on the inside of the case lid.

@Ubermick - My biggest concern is someone grabbing it by the handle and running off with 3K in eyepieces. :ooo:

#60 ubermick

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:15 PM

Haha, yep. Although considering the company most of us are in while observing, someone doing a legger with the case is probably lower than normal.

Anyways, being a complete idiot, I've now spent $500 on a thickness planer as well as a sliding miter saw to put one of these together. Y'know, instead of spending HALF that on a case made by someone with far more skill and talent than I have. I'll be sure and post the utterly disastrous results when I get some time to put one together!

#61 herrointment

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 04:26 PM

I would suggest an 8" jointer to compliment the planer if you don't already own one. You'll need more room, and a north facing window with plenty of quality lighting.....for safety!

#62 Mark Peterman

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:08 AM

Haha, yep. Although considering the company most of us are in while observing, someone doing a legger with the case is probably lower than normal.

Anyways, being a complete idiot, I've now spent $500 on a thickness planer as well as a sliding miter saw to put one of these together. Y'know, instead of spending HALF that on a case made by someone with far more skill and talent than I have. I'll be sure and post the utterly disastrous results when I get some time to put one together!


LOL, yeah, that is usually the route that I take. :tonofbricks:

#63 OneDaveT

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 02:06 AM

Congrats on the planer. I suppose you know that to surface joint the wood you'll additionally need to pick up a jointer. To complete the edge jointing, you'll additionally want a table saw to rip the final edge. I believe the wood wonders further uses dado guides for the drawers and rabbetted joints around drawer closure. You'll want a stacked dado to do that on your table saw, or else use a router with correct size dado bits and router fence.

You might be able to skip the jointing by buying pre-jointed wood sometimes sold at certain lumber supply shops. But choose carefully if you go that route. Those plastic wrapped boards are not always acclimated moisture-wise (read as may warp after unwrapping)

Of course, you'll want a drill press to swing those 2" Forstner bits for the EP holes. If you don't want to do that you might get away with a hole saw or spade bit on a large hand drill, which won't be as clean, but can be made acceptable with some touch up sand paper.

Best of Luck! The initial capital can seem steep compared to just buying, but most of the equipment can easily outlast the rest of your life.

Dave

#64 Pat at home

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:11 PM

$500 for a planer and a slide saw!

The spiral head alone on my planer cost more than twice that. Your wife should congratulate your frugality. ;)

#65 ubermick

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 07:45 PM

I would suggest an 8" jointer to compliment the planer if you don't already own one. You'll need more room, and a north facing window with plenty of quality lighting.....for safety!


:lol: Y'know, screw it - I think I'll just spring for a CNC machine!

#66 ubermick

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 02:18 PM

Okay, a month after I posted the above. I got started on it about three weeks ago, working on the case as time allowed. Went back and forth on rabbet joints or using finger or dovetail joints. Decided on finger joints for added strength, so ordered an Incra i-jig. (That thing is SLICK!) Although being a complete novice, I still ended up making a mess out of the case, and having to start again.

But just finished the second attempt yesterday, it's currently outside in the sun waiting for the finish (used the same Helmsman Spar Urethane as WW does) to destink before I load it up. Dunno how practical it'll be, since it weighs over 15 pounds empty compared to the pound or two that my aluminium Harbor Freight case with pluck foam is, but... it looks nice?

#67 herrointment

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 02:46 PM

15 pounds empty????!!!!!

#68 ubermick

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 02:59 PM

Haha, yep, the thing is a tank - all that 1/2" oak sure adds up.

#69 mgwhittle

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 03:26 PM

Haha, yep, the thing is a tank - all that 1/2" oak sure adds up.


Yeah....3/8 would have been a better choice, that's what Wood Wonders uses.

#70 ubermick

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 03:52 PM

Hindsight being what it is, if I did it again, I would indeed use 3/8. That said, it was almost depressing the amount of wood wasted to make this, since 1/2" lumber doesn't really exist, and had to plane down the 10' or so from 3/4" thick. But going thinner would certainly have shaved 2-3 pounds off, although I do like the added insurance of my eyepieces being protected by that little extra. And I suppose in the grand scheme of things, when you're lugging around 50-60lb mounts, power tanks, et al when setting up, an extra couple of pounds doesn't really matter. It's a good workout, at least!

#71 mgwhittle

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 04:30 PM

To get the size you need, you would bandsaw unfinished 5/4 thickness boards in half, not plane. You then use the planer on the two halves to get identical exact thicknesses of 3/8 inch. I know this info is coming just a little late for this project, but for future work, look for lumber from a mill. You can order 3/8 if you want from a mill but its cheaper to bandsaw boards in half and finish them in you planer.

#72 Jaimo!

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 06:54 PM

I'd love to see some photos of your finger joints...

Jaimo!






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