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Another RV-6 Find!

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#51 Datapanic

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:50 PM

After a lot of discussion on Green Felt, I followed Dave Groski's advice to use thin felt, because the rings are already a tight fit and thicker felt would make too tight of a fit for the tube.

After cutting the strips, I tried using Scotch Permanent Double Sided tape. It stuck to the felt well, but was not very good sticking to the ring sides. So, trash that idea!

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#52 Datapanic

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:52 PM

Method 2 worked out much better - Elmer's Rubber Cement was brushed on the backside of the felt strips with a light coat and then applied to the inside of the rings.

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#53 Datapanic

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:57 PM

Closeup of the clamp side of the rings, showing the wrinkle black paint, a new stud with pin and wing nut.

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#54 Datapanic

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 11:19 PM

Here's the completed mount. The resizing of the image makes the wrinkle black paint looked specked and the Dec Shaft is not that bad looking!

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#55 Datapanic

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 11:25 PM

The tube is going to need a lot of work. It has deep gouges, cracks and delamination going on from top to bottom. I think some fiberglass (without the cloth), Bondo and Spotting Putty are all going to be used to get it smooth before painting.

At the eyepiece end, you can see double holes for the focuser as well as the non-stock finder. If you look closely, you can see indentations of the original finder bracket, which is rectangular, but the holes are not there! I did find a Criterion Finder and Bracket from Don Rothman of Astro Parts Outlet.

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#56 youngamateur42

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:42 PM

Dan, have you finished this up yet?

#57 Datapanic

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 10:09 PM

Nope - I've been slackin'! But, I did find the proper drive screws for the name plates that go on the OTA and Mount. Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong size - I ordered size 2's and I think I should have gone with size 4's. The place I ordered them from is Rivets Online and the minimum is a box of 100. I don't know why they sent me a bag of 60 and a bag of 40 when I ordered them - all I needed was 4!

I'll order the #4's, but that place does not have #4-1/4" length which I think is the length of the originals.

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#58 Datapanic

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 10:12 PM

Here's the mount, all done. The OTA is still all apart and just about ready for paint, but the temps are too low for that right now.

The Mirror and Secondary were recoated and are tucked away safe in a box.

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#59 youngamateur42

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 10:29 PM

Looks like your doing a fine job :waytogo: Finish that puppy up! Or I'm gonna come up and finish it for you :question: :lol:

#60 apfever

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 03:57 AM

Yeah it's too cold for paint. I had to wait a full week just for a rattle can first coat and later touch up. It took a few days between the first and touch up, then a few days before I would handle it. Paint can cure for over a week easy in mild weather, not to mention a bit chilly.

#61 planet earth

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 05:11 AM

I was thinking about replacing the shaft, but so far, I haven't been able to separate the cradle from the shaft. There is a set screw on the top end, but even with that removed, the shaft isn't budging and I don't want to break or crack the cradle trying to force the shaft to move. I even tried soaking the set screw hole and the area where the shaft goes in to the cradle with liquid wrench to no avail.

It's probably better to just leave the original shaft like it is. It does function, after all!


I've got the same problem withy my Meade 826 mount, I've been soaking it for 6 months with various penetrating oils.
No luck. Also no luck with the dec circle part either and I don't want to use heat, so the pitted shaft stays.
BTW nice job.
Sam

#62 FlashGordan

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 06:43 AM

I was thinking about replacing the shaft, but so far, I haven't been able to separate the cradle from the shaft. There is a set screw on the top end, but even with that removed, the shaft isn't budging and I don't want to break or crack the cradle trying to force the shaft to move. I even tried soaking the set screw hole and the area where the shaft goes in to the cradle with liquid wrench to no avail.

It's probably better to just leave the original shaft like it is. It does function, after all!


I've got the same problem withy my Meade 826 mount, I've been soaking it for 6 months with various penetrating oils.
No luck. Also no luck with the dec circle part either and I don't want to use heat, so the pitted shaft stays.
BTW nice job.
Sam


Try PB Blaster. It's the ONLY penetrating oil I'll ever use. I've had bolts so rusted that no other oil would budge. Just let it soak for awhile.

#63 Geo31

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 07:01 AM

Or you could try Aero Kroil or another in this family of penetrating oils. My car buddies tell me this is absolutely the best penetrating oil. It's not cheap though.

http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

#64 planet earth

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 09:03 AM

I'll try the Aero Kroll, I've tried PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench.
Thanks
Sam

#65 Rand Barthel

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 07:25 PM

The oldest models did have that clamp bolt. You can see it in some of the old ads. Wish they had kept that one. I think they went out about the same time that they quit using the metal tags.


Mine is a 1971, I just found out, and it has a socket bolt and came with a big Allen wrench to tighten it with.

#66 Rand Barthel

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 07:31 PM

And completed


Gorgeous! What's the bracket on the side of the tube 90* from the focuser? Mine doesn't have one of those.

#67 apfever

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 09:19 PM

I believe the saddles are a heat shrink fit. The saddle material will expand quite a bit more than the shaft. If the saddle was heated, then placed on the shaft and allowed to shrink on, you could have one hefty tight press fit. I know a lot of saddles on vintage scopes are simply a press fit without any other bolt, pin, or set screw.

#68 rdandrea

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 01:57 PM

Gorgeous! What's the bracket on the side of the tube 90* from the focuser? Mine doesn't have one of those.


It holds a rod to which you could mount a solar projection screen or a camera holder.

#69 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:37 PM

I've been working on finishing this one up the past couple of weeks. The tube, which has been painted with Ace Appliance Epoxy is a problem. The eyepiece end is out of round and squished in at 90 and 270 degrees rotation from the focuser. It is still stiff enough that I can probably collimate it, but I think in the long run, a replacement would work better.

The spider vanes were straightened out by using a C-clamp to press them flat.

Once the optics are tested out, I'll blacken out the fasteners and finish it off with either aluminum end rings or rubber door trim on the tube ends.

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#70 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:41 PM

The focuser turned out good after painting the base wrinkle black and polishing up the brass a little. I also polished up the focuser knobs and shaft. I'm not sure if the pressure plate was ever painted or not, so that got the treatment as well as brass machine screws for adjusting it.

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#71 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:45 PM

The original finder on this scope was replaced with a 6x30 Meade, but I managed to find a correct Criterion finder for it that was in pretty good shape. Here is the tube painted and ready for the lettering to be blackened in. I'm thinking that a fine point sharpie would work well for this, but would like other ideas too.

It was also missing one of the adjuster screws which was replaced with a plastic one. After looking closely, I also noticed one of the original adjusters was cut short and 2 other ones were not quite the same. So, I am think on ordering some 6-32 Brass Knurled Knobs for it from Scope Stuff.

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#72 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:47 PM

Not too much more to do! The Mirror Cell has been painted and put back together and the Secondary Holder is all set to go too, except for making a new stalk for it out of brass threaded rod.

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#73 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:49 PM

I deviated from the original design of the Mirror Cell by using knurled knobs for the adjusters instead of the nut and arcorn nuts it originally had. This should make it easier to adjust out in the field.

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#74 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:53 PM

One issue I am having is the size of the Secondary Adjustment Bolts. In the photo are 3 bolts - a #4-40, the original and a #6-32.

I think the original is a #5-42, using my thread gauge, it is definitely not a #5-40 or #5-44 - Either way, #5 machine screws are hard to find. Maybe it's metric? I find that hard to believe given that the scope was made in the US in the 60's. Throughout, it does have some unusual fastener sizes. The original Secondary Adjustment Bolts are pretty beat up but I could reuse them.

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#75 Datapanic

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:55 PM

The Primary and Secondary mirrors have been recoated and have been safely stored away in a sealed box until the time comes - which I think will be very soon!

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