Posted 26 September 2012 - 08:40 AM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 08:45 AM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 08:55 AM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 10:54 AM
I don't know what this looks like, so I'm not sure how much torque you could rationally put on it before you break something.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 12:08 PM
Squirt the Liquid Wrench around the nut where it makes contact with the threads. Give it 24 hours to soak into the crevices. Giving it an extra squirt now and then helps.
Then I would fill a container with ice water and orient the mount so that the end of the counterweight bar is in the ice water. Let it sit for an hour to cool. Now heat the nut with the propane torch. The cold should cause the bar to shrink slightly and the heat should cause the nut to expand slightly. That's your best bet for getting off. Just be sure you don't heat the nut for too long or you'll just heat up the bar too. Try to direct the heat ONLY at the nut if possible.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 02:39 PM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 02:47 PM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 05:04 PM
Posted 26 September 2012 - 06:43 PM
Thanks for all the tips. Believe me but none of the above worked. The machinist who made my custom pier plate is going to help me out. And I thought I was going to be clever and save some money. . .Hah! I'll let you know what happens.
Posted 26 September 2012 - 09:29 PM
I think this suggestion (below) is in Ed's video, but the one thing I needed to do to get it to work was to use a 2mm allen wrench to get enough leverage.
Remove the two set screws completely (accessible from the hole in the back side of the housing right behind where the nut is). I think they are 1.5mm hex. Then slide a 2mm allen wrench in the hole from the back and put the end in where one of the set screws was previously. While holding the allen wrench, grab the top of the dec assembly (where the saddle plate was) and turn the dec shaft (but make sure the clutch is loose - you don't want to be turning against the gears). The allen wrench will act like a pry bar (sort of) and keep the nut from moving. You may be able to break it free - but - be careful to keep an eye on the allen wrench to make sure it does not bend (or break). It will flex a little but it may provide enough strength to break the nut loose.
I had a bear of a time getting mine free, but I was finally able to get it off using this technique.
Just one other tip I have from when I did mine. When putting the large bearings back in the ring gears - don't force them. Keep trying to reseat them until they slide in - they eventually will. I was sweating bullets thinking I was not going to get them back in, but after about 20 min of seat-stick-remove-reseat, they finally slid right in. It is a really tight fit, but I promise they will go back in smoothly - just keep at it. Once you get the hang of it they are really pretty easy.
Posted 27 September 2012 - 09:37 AM
Reading your first post, it just occurred to me that I hope we are talking about the same thing. In your e-mails you have said "counterwieght bar locking nut" which is the large piece of aluminum that the counterwieght bar threads into. However, in your post you called it the "counterweight bar locking retaining nut" and I'm not sure we are referring to the same thing now. If you are talking about the small black metal ring that holds the axis together and is recessed into the housing, that is held in by two small set screws that must be accessed through the hole on the underside of the housing.
Are we talking about the same thing?
Posted 27 September 2012 - 10:29 AM
I finally located the 2 set screws!! (Thanks.) However, no amount of coaxing freed the nut. I did manage to bend the 2mm allen wrench, though. Also, I'm not sure what happened to these screws as I wasn't able to actually back them out. I'm wondering if they are floating around somewhere in the housing (although I didn't hear any rattling.) Michael
Posted 27 September 2012 - 08:11 PM
My mount had 3 set screws for that nut.
Posted 27 September 2012 - 08:59 PM
Posted 27 September 2012 - 09:40 PM
As an owner of old Dodges and a former tire installer(about 4000 ) I can tell you there ARE exceptions to that rule. Dodge/Chrysler used to use Left-handed threads on one side of the car;many a wheel needed new studs because some airwrench jockey didn't look or know what the stamped "L" meant!
Sorry, Michael. As a professional Master Automotive technician with over 40 years of experience all I can tell you is "Righty Tighty...Lefty loosey.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 11:53 AM
In case I need to replace the cw bar, where is it available as I cannot find it anywhere and don't want to shell out $139 for the ADM upgrade?
Posted 28 September 2012 - 12:39 PM
Posted 02 October 2012 - 05:03 PM
When it comes out rap the nut a bit with a mallet then get a strap wrench on it. IT IS a right hand thread. Oh, and don't use the wife's best oven mitts:lol: