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#1 mmalik

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 12:25 AM

So far I have been doing my basic astro image 'Combine', 'Digital Development' and 'Standard Smoothing and Noise Reduction...' in ImagesPlus.

I have just bought Photoshop CS6 Extended edition and would like to know basic astro image processing flow from ImagesPlus to Photoshop. I am a bit familiar with ImagesPlus, but need high-level clicks/menu items/settings to choose from in Photoshop for the start.

My point is to complement my ImagesPlus development with Photoshop if someone could help me get started. I need basic steps to follow in Photoshop, and what file formats to use/transition and at what point from ImagesPlus top Photoshop. Thanks in advance.

Request: Please don’t point me to any tutorials; just type up some basic menu items/clicks you use in Photoshop to process images. I am interested in hearing from folks who use both ImagesPlus and Photoshop.

Note: Following image is my own and depicts 'ImagesPlus 5.0' and 'Photoshop CS6 Extended' sofware I have.

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#2 astroRoy

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 12:30 AM

This where I started. I bought the advanced book, and Jerry is a master at image processing. In fact, I just bought his latest book today.

http://www.astropix.com/

Roy

PS, This is mostly for DSLR imaging. I know this isn't waht you were asking for, but Jerry's books are tutorial (step by step) nirvana.

#3 McConkey

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 12:52 AM

You will find your basic adjustments in the "Image" menu, from here head to "Adjustments". There you will find Levels, Curves, Selective Colour, Channel mixer etcetc. I would say get familier with these first before getting into layers, masks and filters. My personal favorite is the "Selective Colour". It allows you to select specific colours and edit them without effect any other colours in the image.

For noise reduction and sharpening, you'll find these under the "Filter" menu.
"Filter" - "Noise" - "Reduce noise"
"Filter" - "Sharpen" - "Unsharp Mask" (for the unsharp mask settings, try to keep the 2 slider values the same, so 20 for the top slider and 20 for the bottom. 30,30. 40,40 etcetc.)

For me personally i save my images from DSS as a 16bit .TIFF, when you open it in photoshop it may ask you if you want to apply a colour workspace, i always click yes and select the colour profile i am using on my monitor (usually RGB 1998). If you have a 36bit image you will not be able to apply any changes (levels, curves etc), to change the image to a 16bit or greyscale, you would go to "Image" then "Mode" and then select your choice from that menu.

I have never used Image Plus so i cant help with the transition but ive been using photoshop for almost 10years and will be more than happy to answer any questions you have about it. (keep in mind i use an older version so some menu items MAY have been moved to different locations)

#4 pfile

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 01:02 AM

Request: Please don’t point me to any tutorials; just type up some basic menu items/clicks you use in Photoshop to process images.


you're kidding, right? you want someone to summarize the entirety of one of Jerry's books, with some basic "menu items and clicks", in a forum post?

:john:

yeah, that's right. belushi makes an appearance.

#5 Mike Unsold

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 06:02 AM

ImagesPlus 5.0 x32 or x64 image processing has layers, blend modes, opacity, and masks that do advanced operations that historically were performed in Photoshop but ImagesPlus in general takes fewer steps. Also a complete set of layered stretch, smoothing, sharpening, deconvolution, and selective color adjustment tools each with optional blend mode, opacity, and mask are provided. Mask creation tools including a very easy to use selective color mask tool make adjusting a hue range simple.

The preferred image format in ImagesPlus is 32 bit floating point FITS or TIFF since this format preserves the 32 bit layers, blend modes, masks, filters, and imagem data completely. You will loose data when you convert to 16 bit TIF for use with Photoshop since Photoshop does not allow 32 bit floating point layers, blend modes, and masks.

I would be happy to post step by step instruction for using ImagesPlus 5 layers, blend modes, and masks to do any operation performed in Photoshop.

Mike

#6 Alex McConahay

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 06:44 AM

Gotta do a plus one on this.

If the original poster thought that this can be done with a few clicks and somebody could just tell him which clicks worked the magic, the original poster needs to be disillusioned. I don't mean to be short, but, really, processing astroimages can be hard.It takes work.
\
Alex

#7 Mike Unsold

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 07:11 AM

Yes it is hard work and the hardest part is understanding what each step is doing and why it is done in a particular sequence.

Mike

#8 McConkey

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 07:46 AM

Definatly agree that to process astro images is hard, also learning a new program, especially one has complex as photoshop can be beyond overwhelming but you gotta start somewhere right?

Mmalik, I think some tutorials wont do any damage, you've spent a lot of money on photoshop so might as well get a full breakdown on the program.

@Mike Unsold - I didn't know about those features of image plus (never used it) thanks for the info! I knew about photoshop not having 32bit floating points (hence me always saving 16bit) but its always good to learn something new.

#9 Mike Unsold

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 09:26 AM

Here is a current list of ImagesPlus 5 tutorials for using filters with layers, blend mode, opacity, and masks

http://www.mlunsold....Processing.html

If someone comes up with a technique not covered then I will be happy to add it to the tutorial page. New tutorials are added on a regular basis.

Mike

#10 mmalik

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 05:36 AM

You will find your basic adjustments in the "Image" menu, from here head to "Adjustments". There you will find Levels, Curves, Selective Colour, Channel mixer etcetc. I would say get familier with these first before getting into layers, masks and filters. My personal favorite is the "Selective Colour". It allows you to select specific colours and edit them without effect any other colours in the image.

For noise reduction and sharpening, you'll find these under the "Filter" menu.
"Filter" - "Noise" - "Reduce noise"
"Filter" - "Sharpen" - "Unsharp Mask" (for the unsharp mask settings, try to keep the 2 slider values the same, so 20 for the top slider and 20 for the bottom. 30,30. 40,40 etcetc.)

For me personally i save my images from DSS as a 16bit .TIFF, when you open it in photoshop it may ask you if you want to apply a colour workspace, i always click yes and select the colour profile i am using on my monitor (usually RGB 1998). If you have a 36bit image you will not be able to apply any changes (levels, curves etc), to change the image to a 16bit or greyscale, you would go to "Image" then "Mode" and then select your choice from that menu.

I have never used Image Plus so i cant help with the transition but ive been using photoshop for almost 10years and will be more than happy to answer any questions you have about it. (keep in mind i use an older version so some menu items MAY have been moved to different locations)


Great instructions and advice McConkey; pretty much what I was looking for.

Here is what I ended up doing:

•Combine, 'DDP Stretch', and 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction' in ImagesPlus 5.0
•Brightness in Photoshop CS6 (Image-Adjustments-Brightness/Contrast...)
•Noise Reduction in Photoshop CS6 (Filter-Noise-Reduce Noise...)

Note: Image I came up with is posted here...

#11 mmalik

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 05:42 AM

Here is a current list of ImagesPlus 5 tutorials for using filters with layers, blend mode, opacity, and masks

http://www.mlunsold....Processing.html

If someone comes up with a technique not covered then I will be happy to add it to the tutorial page. New tutorials are added on a regular basis.


Thanks everyone, especially Mike, for your input; I'll review ImagesPlus 5.0 tutorials in due time and possibly come up with some instructions/documentation to leverage those tutorials.

#12 mmalik

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 02:44 PM

Looks like a good start Mike.

The background is a little too dark and looks clipped so your not showing all of the detail. Could you setup for download the stacked FITS from IP with no further processing. I will make a detailed step by step for enhancement using IP 5.0

Mike



Mike, I have uploaded ImagesPlus 5.0 combined (un-processed) FIT (IC 405 - Flaming Star Nebula) here...

#13 srosenfraz

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 07:26 PM

Here is what I ended up doing:

•Combine, 'DDP Stretch', and 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction' in ImagesPlus 5.0
•Brightness in Photoshop CS6 (Image-Adjustments-Brightness/Contrast...)
•Noise Reduction in Photoshop CS6 (Filter-Noise-Reduce Noise...)



Hi Mike -

Your first step with IP DDP is the right start. Your second step with the Brightness/Contrast in Photoshop isn't a good choice for processing astrophotos. The problem with the Brightness and Contrast controls is that they will almost always result in clipping your data and tend to do little in bringing out the subtle nuances in your image.

Increasing the Brightness control simply raises the value of all pixels (causing your highlights to reach 255 at which point you'll start clipping. This will commonly result in stars that lose color (due to being oversaturated), blown out galaxy cores, etc.

Th Contrast control increases the highlights (bright parts) while it decreases the shadows (faint stuff). While the image will usually look a bit better with some increase in contrast, the contrast control will cause the faintest parts of your image to become fainter (the opposite of what we want); and it will tend to blow out the highlights. Again, clipped highlights and shadows are the common side effects from using the contrast control.

So, you'll want to keep in mind that Brightness and Contrast are very inelegant tools in Photoshop, and are problems for astrophotography (where so much of our most useful data is in the shadows). As a rule of thumb, you should plan on using brightness and contrast controls for stretching in Photoshop roughly .... never.

The tools you'll want to concentrate on using are Levels and Curves. These tools allow you to manipulate your image while being more discriminate in what values you increase and decrease. As an example, with curves you can increase the brightness and contrast in just the faint parts of the image while not increasing the brightness in the bright parts of the image (which is a common need for astrophotography).

There's a definite "art" to using Levels and Curves - its not near as simple as adjusting sliders in Brightness and Contrast. But, once you learn the idiosyncrasies of Levels and Curves, I'm sure you'll be pleased with how they can help enhance your image.

Hope this helps.

#14 mmalik

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Posted 29 September 2012 - 10:16 PM

There's a definite "art" to using Levels and Curves


Thanks for elaborating Scott; great guidance I have been looking for.

Few questions:

•If I do 'DDP Stretch' in IP first, is it still ok to do Levels & Curves in PS afterwards?

•Is it ok to do 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' after doing 'DDP Stretch' in IP?

•Is it ok to do 'Filter-Noise-Reduce Noise...' in PS after doing 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' in IP?

•Is sharpening astro images is a good strategy, generally speaking?

•If yes, where does 'Sharpening and Texture Enhancement' in IP fall in relation to 'Filter-Sharpen-Sharpen' in PS? Do both complement each other? If yes, what's the preference order? If not, which one is preferred?

I think you get the idea; I am trying to figure out how to get best of of both, IP and PS, and find out correct order/sequence of processing. I am not yet at your LLRGB level of expertise, so just basics would suffice for me at this point. Thx

#15 srosenfraz

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 12:39 AM

Thanks for elaborating Scott; great guidance I have been looking for.


You're very welcome.

Few questions:

•If I do 'DDP Stretch' in IP first, is it still ok to do Levels & Curves in PS afterwards?


Yes. I always do additional stretching beyond an initial DDP stretch. The DDP stretch is excellent for stretching across the entire image and the entire tonal range, but Levels and Curves allows you to target ranges as well as stretch more aggressively.


•Is it ok to do 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' after doing 'DDP Stretch' in IP?


Definitely.

•Is it ok to do 'Filter-Noise-Reduce Noise...' in PS after doing 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' in IP?


Yes, but... You don't want to do too much noise reduction. If you completely eliminate noise, the image tends to look plastic and fake. My method for noise reduction is that I usually use Carboni's Deep Space Noise Reduction (you definitely should pop for Carboni's actions - best $22 you'll ever spend - see http://www.prodigita...ll_Version.html). I usually back off the opacity of that layer to around 50%, because it tends to make the image a little bit soft. I then save the image as a tiff file (you'll have to uncheck layers and alpha channels in order for IP to read it). I take that tiff file into IP, and then do standard smoothing and NR. Resave the file, open it in Photoshop, and then select all, copy it to the clipboard and then paste it as a layer to the original file. I typically back off that layer a little bit to make sure I'm leaving a little noise, but that's a season to taste sorta thing.

I think you'll find that if you only use IP's smoothing and noise reduction (and learn to use it well), its probably the only NR you'll need. Its certainly plenty enough to start with.


•Is sharpening astro images is a good strategy, generally speaking?


Generally, yes. But, you have to be very careful with sharpening as sharpening applied to the entire image will cause dark halos around stars and background noise to be sharpened. IP's multiresolution sharpening is excellent for sharpening, because you can specify a minimum brightness to sharpen (well above your background level), and a maximum as well. This helps to ensure you're targeting sharpening to those tonal ranges that can afford to be sharpened. But, even IPs excellent MultiResolution sharpening WITH the "reduce artifacts" box checked will still cause ill effects if not used carefully.

I find that sharpening invariably requires masks to make sure that you're not creating all the ill effects that come from it. Carefully sharpened images can look much better. Poorly sharpened images look crummy.

•If yes, where does 'Sharpening and Texture Enhancement' in IP fall in relation to 'Filter-Sharpen-Sharpen' in PS? Do both complement each other? If yes, what's the preference order? If not, which one is preferred?


I'm not sure about Sharpen and Texture enhancement, as I haven't used it. On many of my images, I use a combination of IPs Multiresolution sharpen (similar to wavelets in Registax) and I also use Advanced Lucy-Richardson Deconvolution (takes a long time to run, but more accurate - I usually use this where there are very fine details to enhance).

As far as Photoshop's Sharpen - its a good tool, but I prefer IP's tools. However, if I didn't have IP, I would probably use a little bit of Photoshop's Sharpen. Again, the bigger issue with Sharpening isn't quite as much the tool that is used to sharpen, but how it is applied (i.e., how it is masked).

As far as Photoshop's tools for sharpening - smart sharpen is an excellent tool, and I usually apply it towards the end of my processing.

Also, for almost ALL sharpening steps, I rarely apply these layers at 100%. Most of the time the image looks more natural if sharpening layers have backed off opacity, as it leaves some of the natural fuzziness in the image.

And, one more thing you'll want to learn is how to do a high pass filter. High pass filters have a sharpening effect, and they also increase local contrast. Carefully applied high pass filters greatly enhance an image and are quite easy to do.

I think you get the idea; I am trying to figure out how to get best of of both, IP and PS, and find out correct order/sequence of processing.


As far as the order of processing - I'm not convinced that the order of the steps is terribly critical. I find that for most images I end up repeating a few early steps towards the end (i.e., I usually do some noise reduction in the beginning, but I might end up doing another pass towards the end of my processing). I think that its generally better to apply steps less aggressively so that you slowly enhance the image to where you want it.

Hope this is helpful.

#16 Mike Unsold

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 09:56 AM

[quote name="srosenfraz"]
[quote]
Few questions:

•If I do 'DDP Stretch' in IP first, is it still ok to do Levels & Curves in PS afterwards?

[/quote]

Yes. I always do additional stretching beyond an initial DDP stretch. The DDP stretch is excellent for stretching across the entire image and the entire tonal range, but Levels and Curves allows you to target ranges as well as stretch more aggressively.
[/quote]

DDP in ImagesPlus is designed to do most of the initial stretch but not all. The Histogram Contrast stretch, Micro Curves or both are used to finish the stretch in general. Often a two step stretch makes it very easy to show very faint detail without blowing out the bright areas. First a mild DDP is applied then an inverse luminance mask is made and used to control a Histogram Contrast stretch of just the faint areas. This is shown in detail by

http://www.mlunsold....askStretch.html


[quote]
[quote]
•Is it ok to do 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' after doing 'DDP Stretch' in IP?
[/quote]

Definitely.

[quote]
•Is it ok to do 'Filter-Noise-Reduce Noise...' in PS after doing 'Std. Smoothing & Noise Reduction…' in IP?
[/quote]

Yes, but... You don't want to do too much noise reduction. If you completely eliminate noise, the image tends to look plastic and fake. My method for noise reduction is that I usually use Carboni's Deep Space Noise Reduction (you definitely should pop for Carboni's actions - best $22 you'll ever spend - see http://www.prodigita...ll_Version.html). I usually back off the opacity of that layer to around 50%, because it tends to make the image a little bit soft. I then save the image as a tiff file (you'll have to uncheck layers and alpha channels in order for IP to read it). I take that tiff file into IP, and then do standard smoothing and NR. Resave the file, open it in Photoshop, and then select all, copy it to the clipboard and then paste it as a layer to the original file. I typically back off that layer a little bit to make sure I'm leaving a little noise, but that's a season to taste sorta thing.

I think you'll find that if you only use IP's smoothing and noise reduction (and learn to use it well), its probably the only NR you'll need. Its certainly plenty enough to start with.
[/quote]

With ImagesPlus 5 you also have luminance, inverse luminance, star, inverse star, and selective color masks that can be for very precise control of background and also hue smoothing. Contrast, hue, color, and luminance blend modes with opacity add additional control.
[/quote]


[quote]
[quote]
•Is sharpening astro images is a good strategy, generally speaking?
[/quote]

Generally, yes. But, you have to be very careful with sharpening as sharpening applied to the entire image will cause dark halos around stars and background noise to be sharpened. IP's multiresolution sharpening is excellent for sharpening, because you can specify a minimum brightness to sharpen (well above your background level), and a maximum as well. This helps to ensure you're targeting sharpening to those tonal ranges that can afford to be sharpened. But, even IPs excellent MultiResolution sharpening WITH the "reduce artifacts" box checked will still cause ill effects if not used carefully.

I find that sharpening invariably requires masks to make sure that you're not creating all the ill effects that come from it. Carefully sharpened images can look much better. Poorly sharpened images look crummy.

[quote]
•If yes, where does 'Sharpening and Texture Enhancement' in IP fall in relation to 'Filter-Sharpen-Sharpen' in PS? Do both complement each other? If yes, what's the preference order? If not, which one is preferred?
[/quote]

I'm not sure about Sharpen and Texture enhancement, as I haven't used it. On many of my images, I use a combination of IPs Multiresolution sharpen (similar to wavelets in Registax) and I also use Advanced Lucy-Richardson Deconvolution (takes a long time to run, but more accurate - I usually use this where there are very fine details to enhance).

As far as Photoshop's Sharpen - its a good tool, but I prefer IP's tools. However, if I didn't have IP, I would probably use a little bit of Photoshop's Sharpen. Again, the bigger issue with Sharpening isn't quite as much the tool that is used to sharpen, but how it is applied (i.e., how it is masked).

As far as Photoshop's tools for sharpening - smart sharpen is an excellent tool, and I usually apply it towards the end of my processing.

Also, for almost ALL sharpening steps, I rarely apply these layers at 100%. Most of the time the image looks more natural if sharpening layers have backed off opacity, as it leaves some of the natural fuzziness in the image.

And, one more thing you'll want to learn is how to do a high pass filter. High pass filters have a sharpening effect, and they also increase local contrast. Carefully applied high pass filters greatly enhance an image and are quite easy to do.
[/quote]

I would recommend using Multiresolution sharpening and Adaptive Richardson-Lucy Deconvolution in IP 5 with either a luminance mask or edge mask for precise control of sharpening. You can also assign blend mode and opacity to help with blending the mask sharpened image with the previous unsharp image layer.

The Sharpening & Texture Enhancement tools in IP include unsharp mask, statistical difference which is similar to unsharp mask but IMHO a little better, and a contrast stretch tool. All of these can be used with masks and have a built in feathered luminance range.

IP 5 also has a high pass filter that can be used for sharpening and contrast increase just like in PS. The high pass filter is also used to create star masks in IP 5.

[/quote]

#17 Mike Unsold

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 12:54 PM

Mike

Here is a general processing outline for using ImagesPlus 5 with your Flame Nebula stacked image as a starting point. I did use a luminance mask and inverse luminance mask to help with sharpening and smoothing respectively. These masks only take a couple of clicks to generate and assign to a filter so I think is a good thing to start using even for the beginner.

Initial stacked image from a DSLR

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S0.jpg



1) Initial digital development stretch.

Digital development break-point is adjusted to stretch the image. Background weight is adjusted so that the background is not too dark and clipped. HDR nth root pre-stretch scale used with digital development to allow greater stretch without bright areas of the image becoming too bright.

http://www.mlunsold....p/Flame-S1a.jpg


Color emphasis used to offset color compression of digital development.

http://www.mlunsold....p/Flame-S1b.jpg



2) Multi-point flatten and color balance tool is used to neutralize the background and set it to a dark gray.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S2.jpg



3) Smooth background using Multi-Resolution with inverse luminance mask.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S3.jpg



4) Bicublic resample to smaller size for display on the web. This step also does a little smoothing of the image so not all smoothing was done in step 3.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S4.jpg



5) Mild ARL deconvolution with a luminance mask.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S5.jpg



6) Luminance range smoothing. Smoothing is restricted to the range [0, 15081] and feather radius of 1130.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S6.jpg



7) Adjust red and blue in a luminance range using curves

Red increase of the range [5958.0 , 65535.0]

http://www.mlunsold....p/Flame-S7r.jpg


Blue increase of the range [8817.0, 65535.0]

http://www.mlunsold....p/Flame-S7b.jpg



8) Star size reduction. Sometimes star size reduction is used with a star mask so that the galaxy or nebula is not effected. In this case a star mask is not needed.

http://www.mlunsold....mp/Flame-S8.jpg


Final Flame Nebula image

http://www.mlunsold....mp/FlameNeb.jpg

Mike

#18 mmalik

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 01:36 PM

Mike/Scott, thanks for taking the time and elaborating.

Mike, thanks for the IP 5.0 work flow on the flame nebula. I am sure it will go a long way in making things easy to understand for most of us. I'll repeat the IP 5.0 work flow you outlined and let you know if I have more questions.

This is a great dialogue; keep it going. I'll encourage other participants to join in and ask questions.

I'll see if I could put together some step-by-step documentation out of this learning experience.

#19 Dave M

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 07:22 PM

Great! info, made a copy of it for future reference. :cool:

#20 srosenfraz

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 10:58 PM

I have to say that IP just keeps getting better and better. For me, I continue to use a combination of IP and Photoshop because I already have both programs (i.e., I already plopped down my $500+ for Photoshop), and I've learned how to use the combinations of both programs.

That having been said, I would highly recommend to anyone just starting out that they should truly consider Images Plus for all of your capture and image processing. IP by itself now has all the tools to make excellent images and is worth investing the time to learn how to use. For the price ($240 for both camera control and image processing modules), you end up with everything you need to capture, focus, stack, calibrate, and process your images. And, IMHO, all of these functions are top notch applications.

Congrats once again, Mike on all you've done to make IP such a great package.

#21 mmalik

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 02:06 AM

Mike, couple of questions. I was able to follow your process to the letter, except for following:

1. For some reason, settings in 'Multi Point Planar Flatten Background' remain greyed out; how can I fix that?
Edit: Disregard...I was able to fix this; had to click on the image to enable options.

2. I see you did 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' but didn't include a screen shot; nothing major, just wanted to see what you did there?

3. How did you enable 'Mask Surface' display?

4. How did you generate luminance and inverse luminance masks; and how did you apply them? (I did look at your 'Sharpen Midtones & Highlights using a Custom Luminance Mask' tutorial, but couldn't follow along or understand the flow; plus it creates a mask from a JPG, which is bit confusing to me) Sorry, I am lost on masks stuff if you can help using this example.

Following is my understanding of your work-flow if you can confirm (for this particular example, I understand...):

Note: (Brackets show the menu locations of various items in ImagesPlus 5.0); thought it may help folks locate things.

Digital Development (Stretch-Digital Development...)
Multi Point Planar Flatten Background (Special Functions-Multi Point Flatten Background-Planar...)
Multiresolution Smooth-Sharpen (Smooth Sharpen-Multiresolution Smooth/Sharpen...)
Scale (Geometric-Transforms...-Scale)
Adaptive Richardson-Lucy (Smooth Sharpen-Adaptive Richardson – Lucy Restoration...)
Smoothing (Smooth Sharpen-Standard Smoothing and Noise Reduction...)
Micro Curves (Stretch-Micro Curves...)
Star Size (Special Function-Star Size and Halo Reduction...)

Edit: Removed Hue-Saturation-Luminance; it is NOT needed!

#22 Mike Unsold

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 07:13 AM

Thank you Scott.

Mike

#23 Mike Unsold

Mike Unsold

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 07:29 AM

Mike, couple of questions. I was able to follow your process to the letter, except for following:

1. For some reason, settings in 'Multi Point Planar Flatten Background' remain greyed out; how can I fix that?
Edit: Disregard...I was able to fix this; had to click on the image to enable options.

2. I see you did 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' but didn't include a screen shot; nothing major, just wanted to see what you did there?

3. How did you enable 'Mask Surface' display?

4. How did you generate luminance and inverse luminance masks; and how did you apply them? (I did look at your 'Sharpen Midtones & Highlights using a Custom Luminance Mask' tutorial, but couldn't follow along or understand the flow; plus it creates a mask from a JPG, which is bit confusing to me) Sorry, I am lost on masks stuff if you can help using this example.


Mike I will make detailed instructions for each of the above questions except step2. Once these few steps are learned they are always used to assign masks to filters applied to images.

Step 2 using the 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' tool should not appear in the screen shots and instruction list that I used. 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' was applied and I did not feel it was necessary so I did an undo but did not update the screen shot. So disregard the 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' step.


Following is my understanding of your work-flow if you can confirm (for this particular example, I understand...):

Note: (Brackets show the menu locations of various items in ImagesPlus 5.0); thought it may help folks locate things.

Digital Development (Stretch-Digital Development...)
Multi Point Planar Flatten Background (Special Functions-Multi Point Flatten Background-Planar...)
Multiresolution Smooth-Sharpen (Smooth Sharpen-Multiresolution Smooth/Sharpen...)
Scale (Geometric-Transforms...-Scale)
Adaptive Richardson-Lucy (Smooth Sharpen-Adaptive Richardson – Lucy Restoration...)
Smoothing (Smooth Sharpen-Standard Smoothing and Noise Reduction...)
Micro Curves (Stretch-Micro Curves...)
Star Size (Special Function-Star Size and Halo Reduction...)


The above steps are correct with 'Hue-Saturation-Luminance' removed from the work flow.

#24 mmalik

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:22 PM

I will make detailed instructions for each of the above questions except step2. Once these few steps are learned they are always used to assign masks to filters applied to images.


Thanks Mike; will look forward to it.

FYI: I have updated my post for work flow items/sequence in light of your information.

#25 Mike Unsold

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 09:16 PM

Mike, couple of questions. I was able to follow your process to the letter, except for following:

1. For some reason, settings in 'Multi Point Planar Flatten Background' remain greyed out; how can I fix that?
Edit: Disregard...I was able to fix this; had to click on the image to enable options.


Mike here is a detailed tutorial for using just the Multi Point Flatten & Color Balance tool and also a control point mask to compliment the flatten tool.

http://www.mlunsold....lorBalance.html


3. How did you enable 'Mask Surface' display?


The Mask Surface display button on the Process History layers window is enable for each filter that you apply to an image. First apply a filter like curves, smoothing, sharpening, or deconvolution to enter the filter in the Process History layer list. The Mask button on Process History will then be enabled. If you push the Mask button the default all white control point mask will be displayed in the Mask Surface window.

Blend mode and opacity for each filter is also displayed on the Process History window.

4. How did you generate luminance and inverse luminance masks; and how did you apply them? (I did look at your 'Sharpen Midtones & Highlights using a Custom Luminance Mask' tutorial, but couldn't follow along or understand the flow; plus it creates a mask from a JPG, which is bit confusing to me) Sorry, I am lost on masks stuff if you can help using this example.


A mask is a single channel gray scale image and can be created from any type of image such as TIF, BMP, FITS, and also JPG. A custom luminance gray scale image is created from a 3 channel color image by mixing red, green, and blue with different weights as shown in the 'Sharpening Midtone & Highlights using a Custom Luminance Mask' tutorial. The three channel gray scale jpeg image in the tutorial is converted to a single channel mask in 32 bit float FITS format using the Luminance Mask toolbar button which is second from the top on the left vertical toolbar.

Luminance masks, selective color masks, and edge masks are all created using the 2nd through 10th buttons from the top of the left vertical toolbar. Once a luminance, color, or edge mask is create the Invert Mask tool bar button which is 8th from the top of the left vertical toolbar will turn the mask into an inverse mask. An inverse mask is just the negative of the mask. Lets start simple and just consider a luminance or custom luminance mask.

Mike take a look at this tutorial which shows how to create a custom luminance mask in step 1 and then use it with sharpening filter in step 2

http://www.mlunsold....pHghLights.html

Exactly which steps are confusing starting with creating the mask?






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