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Observatory progress update

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#1 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:20 PM

Got the stud walls up this Saturday, then today we got all the "Solarbord" panels attached. The steel arrives next weekend. More pictures to come.
Mike

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#2 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:21 PM

Wide angle view of the Solarbord panels ready to be cut to length and attached.

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#3 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:23 PM

Shane, Rachel, Kennan and Chris were BIG help today! We did all 17 Solarbord panels in one afternoon and evening. Kennan did an amazing job of squaring up the building walls to align to the Solarbord. Everything is very level and ready to have the steel tracks attached next weekend.

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#4 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:26 PM

Here's the helper gang today: Chris, Kennan, Rachel and Shane. Rachel helped me unload Solarbord panels and cut them to length and width, while Chris, Kennan and Shane did the bullwork of putting up the panels and getting the building straight.

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#5 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 11:32 PM

Just a few panels left to attach as we reached sunset. We were able to finish all the panels by about 7:30PM, by flashlight! I'll post daylight pictures tomorrow.
Mike

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#6 Mirzam

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 07:05 AM

Looks great Mike! What are you going to put on that very nice pier? (A telescope, I figured that much out :question: ).

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#7 csa/montana

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 09:25 AM

Hi Mike! Your observatory is really looking great! Nice pier, also! I may have missed it, but what is the purpose of using the solar panels on the walls? :question:

#8 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 10:33 AM

Hi Carol!
"Solarbord" is just regular OSB panels with a shiny semi-waterproof thick metal foil on one side. They can reflect more than 90% of the heat away from the wall. They're available at any Lowe's or Home Depot. Solarbord reflects heat away from the inner walls and keeps them a LOT cooler. I'll put up horizontal 1x4 pine boards at top, middle and bottom, all around the building, which act as thermal spacers. Then the R-panel attaches to the 1x4's, leaving a 3/4" air gap between the R-panels and Solarbord. This allows hot air to convect up the hot walls and out the top, rather than cooking the walls. The west wall is shown in the last post, 5482946, and it will get the hottest of all. Using Solarbord and thermal standoffs will keep the wall 30 degrees cooler (or more) than it would be with the R-panels alone. By using Solarbord panels, I'm not sure I'll even need insulation on the interior walls.

Mike

#9 csa/montana

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 11:21 AM

Wow Mike; that's fantastic! First I've heard of this system; it surely will be an asset to keep your observatory much cooler!

Thanks for the information!

#10 edosaurusrex

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 12:17 PM

Looking good Mike! I didn't notice where you put the secret removeable floor board panel for your munchie and drink stash.

#11 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 08:49 PM

Nuh UH Ed! Don't need any more places where snakes can crawl up into the obz!

All Solarbord panels up - I added wall bracing today to keep the walls from bending and being damaged in thundershowers we had today and coming again Friday.

The Solarbord makes the building extremely strong in shear (trying to flex into a parallelogram), but does nothing to strengthen individual walls against high winds. When the tracks are attached above, they will stiffen the walls against bending.

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#12 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 08:53 PM

Better view of the wall bracing I put up today. I also took the pier back in storage and out of the rain that would rust it. Notice we had already had a small shower, with water standing on the floors. Not to worry, I spent nearly $80/sheet for marine-grade 3/4" plywood on the floors, plus sealed it with Olympia fence sealer, so rainwater just evaporates after a while.

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#13 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 08:58 PM

This is for Carol's benefit, and anyone else here that hasn't bought their OSB panels for their walls. The Solarbord only costs a few more dollars a panel then regular OSB, and it can make a world of difference in the inside temperature of your observatory during hot summer months. Lowe's and Home Depot have big stacks of the stuff.

That's all for now - will possibly have supports and ROR tracks up next weekend. My neighbor Kennan is an amazing welder and construction dude and he's having a lot of fun working on it.
Mike

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#14 Gastrol

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 09:16 PM

Wow, that's a nice, spacious build!
Please correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought that the shiny side of these solar panels had to face the interior.

#15 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 09:43 PM

I think you're half right - if the roofing material directly contacts the Solarbord, it should contact the non-metallized side, and the shiny side goes on the opposite side (interior). High reflectivity = low emissivity, therefore poorer radiative heat transfer from the inside into the attic, etc. But when you attach R-panel over the outside of the Solarbord with 1x4 airspacers between, having the shiny side out reflects heat radiating from the inner surface of the R-panel back to the panel and away from the building. As I understand it, shiny side out with the airspace between is the better way to use it - much lower heat transfer to the interior.

Yes on the spacious room! Decades ago a club I was with thought they could save some money by only building a 12'x16' building. Bad idea. You end up bumping into the scope, walls, or worktable almost all night. My 16'x18' should be a lot more roomier and more enjoyable.
Mike

#16 Retsub

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 12:10 AM

Mike you are on the right track . . nearly. It used to be called Tech Shield with a high content aluminum on plywood in some brands. Like on a house roof it is best installed with the shiny side down so nothing touches it and it gives off the radiation heat which is about 95%. It only needs to have at least a 3/4" air space to work. Radiation only travels in a straight line and the barrier only works where the sun can shine at it, not on the north side example. There is a good place up your way to buy it by the roll 4 ft wide and tack it on also. Not that bubble wrap stuff that can cause moisture problems with high humidity unless it has a Air Cond. Think of a Igloo ice chest closed and damp inside and the mold growing. Don't understand why more radiant barrier isn't used to help keep the heat build up lower on equipment for a quicker cool down. Was out in Nevada a year ago and didn't see radiant barrier in houses or at Home Depot either. Too bad. Good work. *BW*

#17 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 05:10 PM

Hey Jim,
Mr. Paramount ME will be riding atop the pier. So far, I have two separate OTA's, but more are coming:
1. Takahashi TOA-130
2. 5" Tinsley Maksutov and Coronado PST on same baseplate

Next scopes to come:

My 16" f/6 in a new all-composite super-stiff lightweight tube to be built by Optical Mechanics (I made primary)

10" f/26.5 Maksutov (design done, glass bought, Jerry Logan curve-generated and ready to grind)

8" Herrig (just GOTTA see that one work!)

6" f/10 refractor (I designed and worked the lens on that one)

6" Retro-triplet (my own invention, y'all are gonna like this one)

After that I'm not sure. Depends how soon I retire and can get going on them. Still want to do a big Schupmann and apochromat lens.

Mike

#18 Mirzam

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 07:20 PM

In case you missed these shots of Jupiter with a 10" AP maksutov they may help motivate some work in that direction:

http://www.cloudynig...5/o/all/fpart/1

JimC

#19 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 23 October 2012 - 09:26 PM

:bigshock: ah say :jawdrop: :bigshock:
Yeah that pretty much makes me want to do the 10" f/26.5 Mak first. That's only a tiny bit shorter EFL than the AP 10" f/14.6 with 2X Barlow (f/29.2), but I'll have a slightly smaller secondary spot and CO. And, no extra optics in the path. I'll have to work it good to match AP optical performance, though. I like the Flea cameras - so small but so good!
Mike

#20 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 12:22 PM

Here's my neighbor Kennan, taking a rest while pouring the last of the 3" x 3" x 11-gauge track support poles. He's been amazing help building my observatory. All the poles are too high, then using a theodolite, we'll mark horizontal marks on the poles, then Kennan will plasma-cut them to all the same height to get the track level.
Mike

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#21 mikey cee

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 12:39 PM

Hey Mike I see you've given yourself a little elbow room in there. :lol: Nothing like planning for the future! I didn't see anything mentioned but you probably already know about staggard vent gaps between your 1x4's. :waytogo: Mike

#22 Mike I. Jones

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 03:26 PM

Ah - excellent point Mikey. In other words, don't run the 1x4's continuously around the periphery, but instead leave a gap to improve circulation?

#23 johne

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 06:50 AM

What a great neighbor!

#24 mikey cee

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:24 AM

Ah - excellent point Mikey. In other words, don't run the 1x4's continuously around the periphery, but instead leave a gap to improve circulation?

:waytogo:You got 'er Sherlock! :grin: Mike

#25 mikey cee

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:27 AM

Mike by the way don't forget the critters and pests! Where you vent at the bottom and tops cover those areas with screening. If you don't you'll have walls full of you know what!! :grin: Mike






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