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D=103mm F=1575mm Jaegers F-15 w/tripod & mount

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#1 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 02:47 AM

This is really a continuation of another thread I posted a few months ago:

(http://www.cloudynig.../fpart/all/vc/1)

I have since completed the telescope and am now working on the tripod and fork/ring mount, which is much more complicated than the scope ever was. Everything is scratch built without a mill. The fork, ring mount etc, was built from Speedy Metals stock and free handed on a grinder, disk sander, drill press, make shift lathe, files, sandpaper, and of course a caliper to measure thousandths of an inch. The first picture here is of the fork and rings with gears I got out of a printer. The shafts were gotten out of a printer also. They function great. The 312:1 gears can be disengaged to just point and look which is what my son really wanted. I had to talk him into the gears - but only if they were able to be disengaged. He already has a computer "Go-To" mount, so he certainly isn't lacking with higher tech stuff. He wanted it to be simple. no batteries. (Even though I stuck a green laser on the mount)Some of the things like the aluminum connector, white knob were changed to brass. This pic was the fork-ring mount in it's first stages before upgrades and changes.
Z

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#2 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 02:54 AM

Here it is again with gloss black Lacquer, brass etc...
Also there is a mock up of a star diagonal, brass green laser housing I made, and the beginning of a brass finder scope.
Z

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#3 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:06 AM

By the way, here is the scope, I turned the 4-1/2" diameter x 1/8" wall tube down to .050" wall on a friends lathe and bought the dual speed focuser and collimatable lens cell from crawmach.com. It is shown here without the 10" brass dew shield.

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#4 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:21 AM

Tripod. I don't like retractable legs, besides the legs have hidden 6 inch unscrew able legs inside the bottom of the legs for uneven surfaces. Not to mention the fact that the tripod is a little shorter than the six foot scope (w/dew shield) itself.
The tripod has a 321:1 gearbox that disenguages underneath the round center tray. The center shaft is mounted in 2 precision bearings and has zero play/wobble. This pic is unstained and sealed and doesn't show the gearbox yet.
The center tray does come off (3 Black knobs that unscrew under the round tray)and the legs do fold up even though they don't retract.
Z

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#5 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:30 AM

Brake/tension brass disk. a brake shoe goes against it, therefore it is accurate to less than a half a thousandth o f an inch. The brake shoe material came from a brake shoe off of a full size car! And is very smooth and fluid. It will lock up or just put a little tension with just a turn of a screw.
Z

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#6 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:35 AM

With Green Laser

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#7 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:48 AM

Close up

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#8 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 03:52 AM

Yes that is a shell case for a knob!
Works good

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#9 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:04 AM

Green Laser is not mounted yet. By the way, there is a 2 foot shaft attached to the bottom of the fork which extends up about 22 inches making the total height of the scope pointed straight up about 9'8" which will put the EP just under 4'. None of that down on your knee's stuff. Hey, it's a long scope, that's why the tripod is so tall.
Z

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#10 Z28500

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:09 AM

More to come. When the scope is finished it will be in Astronomy Technology Today magazine. I have already written the article and spoken with the editor. -Soon...
More to come
Z

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#11 Sean Cunneen

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 10:34 AM

Very cool! A fresh take! Beautiful.

#12 Z28500

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 05:45 AM

Here is the underside of the round center tray. The 312:1 gearbox rotates so that the knob points in any direction. The short stainless steel shaft disengages the gears enabling hand rotation, or "point and look". The gearbox rotates around the lip of a stainless steel pot! There is a 360% ring that fits around the lip which I made out of corian, very tight fit, but it glides when rotating. Very solid, so solid in fact it doesn't need to be locked when it's re-positioned. The gears came out of an old printer except for the worm drive which I got from Surplus Shed. The top side of the tray has a sealed bearing which the extendable shaft (see tripod picture)fits into. The second bearing is mounted at the top of the tripod. The 22" x 1-1/2" part of the 2 piece shaft is inserted from the top of the tripod and the bearing locks into a hole on top and through the bearing in the center tray, or it can be pushed up from the underside into the top bearing and then the center tray tightened. - Take your pick! The veneer came off a piece of de-laminated plywood that had been sitting outside for several years, I wrapped it around a large PVC pipe which encases the rotating assembly. The center tray itself is made from oak plywood with .005" brass veneer (a little thicker than a piece of paper) around the edge. (Over 300 parts on the whole tripod and fork-mount which gave me calluses on top of calluses making them!) More pic's to come including the finished tripod.
Z

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#13 Z28500

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 05:49 AM

Shot of the entire underside with flexible shell casing knob.
Z

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#14 Z28500

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 02:35 PM

Who says you can't build your own 2" star diagonal?!
Not quite finished yet though.
Z

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#15 Z28500

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:02 PM

The laser is a green 5mw bought from Amazon, it makes a nice bright green line to the sky, but not too bright like my 100mw which is why I choose the 5mv for this scope. Right now it is spaced with black elec. tape but I may make 2 short aluminum sleeves for it. If it ever goes bad, all that has to be done is get another laser pen and insert it into the brass holder! The only thing about pen lasers is that the light doesn't shine parallel to the casing so it is important to get it straightened out by shimming inside the brass holder 1st, then align it in the triple screw holders 2nd. In other words, the pen is crooked inside the brass, but the green line shines out parallel to the holder.
Z

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#16 Z28500

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:03 PM

Assembled Laser, all hand made, the end pcs. were made with a drimmel, drill press, disk sander, tap, rubbing compound after sanding with 600 sandpaper. The tube - same thing, also I soldered the little round piece that the custom screw goes into which is also soldered. The solder was then sanded and polished which is why it turned out like it did. The long round knob on the end of the screw is made out of 3/16" brass rod!
Z

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#17 Z28500

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 10:15 PM

Closeup of gears. The worm gear has a spring loaded push-pull Allen screw knob which locks in the engaged or disengaged position. There are 2 more gears that aren't shown. 312:1 ratio.
Z

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#18 Z28500

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 10:20 PM

Engaged. The lower knob is spring loaded and is the one that pulls in and out locking the worm gear in both positions.
Z

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#19 dan_h

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 08:31 AM

Wow! You have certainly done a lot of work and very nicely. It just goes to show what can be done with simple tools if you have the skills. I particularly like the brass items. They will look great contrasted with the black.

One question. Do you have any concerns that the gears will not hold up to the stress once they are loaded with the OTA?

dan

#20 Kunama

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 01:07 PM

Fantastic work, very much appreciate this type of commitment.
Waiting for more updates ..........................

#21 Z28500

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 05:59 PM

Thanks for the comments guys,
I have already had the scope mounted in the ring mount and the gears work great, even the ascension. Just in case though, there is a tension adjustment in case the scope gets bumped or if something puts more stress on the gears which might cause a broken tooth or something - my computer mount has basically the same thing, you can set the drag and even turn the scope by hand with the gears engaged. That's what I did on this mount. The gears can be released completely by either disengaging the worm drive or the shaft tension and still have tension for "point and look". It really turned out pretty cool. I think I may have mentioned that my son only wanted "point and look" because he said "it was part of the whole experience" and I really couldn't argue with him. He enjoyed pointing the PVC mock-up I made before the aluminum tube. I had to talk him into the gear drives as long as they could be disengaged.
Z

#22 TileArt

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 09:33 PM

Wow! Love that laser mount. Incredible work.

#23 Z28500

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 08:50 PM

Beginning to remake the laser mount, the old one was too short, a little grinding, drilling, sanding, polishing and well, there you have it. Speaking of the drilling part, after drilling literally hundreds of holes and having to get them perfectly exact, I figured out a way to get the hole exactly where I want it without the drill bit walking. I have little impact punches, and I've drilled little starter holes and everything, but even they don't work 100% of the time. There is an infalable way that does work 100% of the time.The way I did it is coming up soon with pic's
Z

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#24 Z28500

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 01:07 AM

Here is an example of some holes I managed to get lined up on a drill press. drilled from opposite sides. I will post some pictures of "how to" in the next couple posts. There may be some machinists out there that know about the technique, I don't know. I have never seen it done anywhere else - but it does work. I'll try posting the pic's tomorrow. By the way, this is a picture of a prism 2" star diagonal I'm working on. Both tubes has to be 90% to each other, and perfectly square to the prism. There are actually 11 screws holding the tube, but 2 of them aren't in. 35 screws in the whole star diagonal. Later on they will be counter sunk with different brass screws.
Z

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#25 Z28500

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 09:35 PM

Drill a hole in a piece of aluminum first

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