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Tasco Telescope in Wooden Crate

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#26 wdretired

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:36 AM

Thank you for the information. I sure will look for that thread. Some wanted to see the box the telescope came in so I'm putting up a photo of it. What are the two blocks of wood with the felt on the edges? It's got me scratching my head.

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#27 wdretired

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:40 AM

I would like to know what the flat black metal thing is here that has a thumb screw in it. Does this belong with the telescope? The hole is almost the size of the shaft holding the balance weight.

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#28 Larrythebrewer

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 01:01 PM

That's for solar projection viewing, it attaches to that part in your box that looks like a lollipop & that in turn attaches to the draw tube

I agree with Albert about yours being the rarer model, & more of your focuser should slide out, where it meets the white optical tube

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#29 wdretired

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 07:01 PM

Solar Projection Viewing . . . I guess I have some learning to do before I get into that. I took a picture of the slide out tube I think you were talking about. I slid it all the way out and I still could not get it to focus. At this point I can't help but believe that maybe the eye pieces aren't all there. I took a photo of two little metal/glass barrels (above photo). Are they suppose to be screwed into the eye piece? I've tried screwing them in one of the eye piece (and it seems to fit) but I'm just guessing. Can you tell me what size eye piece I have? I think I'll just order a new one and start from scratch if I can find the correct size. What power (mm) should I get for viewing the moon?

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#30 sgorton99

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 07:07 PM

Do you have a "regular" 90 degree or right angle shaped diagonal to place the eyepiece in? What you have is for giving you a correct right/left side terrestrial diagonal. I would advise low power for the moon, like a 26 or 32mm. The higher the eyepiece number, the lower the magnification.

#31 TahoeNoob

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 08:16 PM

Call me crazy, but I think they're saying the black tube, that the finder is mounted to, might slide out too. If that's true, you might get the extra distance you need to get your scope to focus better. (Take a look at the picture that was posted earlier. You'll see that the finder is further back from the main (white) tube than yours is.)

Don't break anything. I'm not 100 percent sure that I know what I'm talking about! :)

EDIT: I'm talking about the picture posted by Albert on the previous page. The one with the hockey goal in the background. (Notice the extended black sleeve that has been slipped out. Do you have one of those?)

#32 greju

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 08:19 PM

This picture may help. Grab a hold of the finderscope stalk(not shown here) and gently pull to the rear to achieve rough focus. You have a classic!

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#33 wdretired

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 09:45 PM

Thank you for the information. I was able to get mine to pull out so I'm thinking that will cure the problem. It's raining outside or I'd be out side testing it out. Another question I have. With the smaller eye pieces these telescopes have, what is the best method of photographing what you see? Are imagers the best way to go or can you hook up digital cameras to the lens?

#34 Stargoat

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:59 PM

You are right that the RA needs to rest on the support, but the lever will still be in the wrong place. But as I mentioned, it will work where it is as long as the locking lever is working against the brass spreader. I am at work, but I think the casting is different (raised)for where the locking lever goes. The top screw which connects to the split ring has just a countersunk casting like the other screws. The lever should be closest to the counterweight shaft.


Hello Charlie and wdretired,

Here is my 10TE mount that I reversed the Polar Axis to match the orientation that wdretired is showing in his picture. In my opinion his mount is identical to all of the 10TE mounts, he just needs to rotate the RA and Dec Axis to have the Polar Axis resting correctely on the Polar Axis angled rest stop bolt.

Note: Before rotating the mount to the correct orientation, you should do so without the scope or counterweight. You need to have the Polar Axis housing of the mount resting on the rest stop bolt to help support the weight of the scope and counterweight. If not, then you are relying only on the Polar Axis Clamp Screw to hold the scope in position when you set your latitude for Polaris.

I'll post a picture next of my mount reorientated correctly to rest on the Polar Axis rest stop bolt.

Stephen

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#35 Stargoat

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 07:02 PM

Here is photo showing my 10TE mount rotated back to the correct orientation so the Polar Axis is now resting on the rest stop bolt.

Stephen

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#36 Stargoat

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 07:04 PM

Last, here is a close up showing the Polar Axis rest stop bolt supporting the weight of the Polar Axis housing.

Stephen






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