Problem with the small SMD caps is that they aren't marked. At the the factory the robot grabs them from the tape and places them on the PCB. I have a good Fluke DMM, but I usually can't get an accurate reading on them, range doesn't go down that far. I'd go to the Electronic Goldmine and get some "Gold Paks" of SMD caps and resistors.
"We don’t take the time to sort this 100% prime material as it comes in. We just place it in 55 gal drums. Over 1,000 pieces [fit] in a 2" x 3" zip close bag!"
Paks start at $2.50. I only see one SMD inductor, but at $0.21 what the heck.
L2 - Pin10 - AVCC - A guess this is the power supply for the chip. L2, an inductor, is usually in the power feed. See if you can trace it back to USB pin 1.
C8 - Pin14 - VCC
C5 - Pin18 - VCC
C9 - Pin6 - VCC
C10 - Pin10 - AVCC
These ceramic caps are most likely decoupling capacitors. They decouple one part of an electrical circuit from another. Noise caused by other circuit elements is shunted through the capacitor to ground, reducing the effect it has on the rest of the circuit. Caps are rated on their capacitance and the voltage they can handle. Ceramics usually can handle high voltages, but have low capacities. To simplify assembly the circuit design will attempt to use similar types of components. So I'd try to match the caps you see on the circuit for size and color. If in doubt go with the larger size. Oversizing a cap rarely causes a problem.
R36 - Pin5 - CLKOUT Too bad this went missing as it's the only resistor. Again look around the board and see what they are using. Start with the highest value.
Placing SMDs on the board is hard but doable. A tempertaure controlled iron is best. You need a sharp point. In tight spaces super glue a tooth pick to the component to get it into position. Pick up some solder with the iron and bridge the component and the board. Should only take a second or two to get good flow. Goldmine has some SMD practice PCBs you may want to try first. Good luck!