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Dropped 4SE needs collimation (I guess)

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#26 Artemio

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:46 PM

After opening the back cover of the scope, I got this pair of screws.

The interesting part is that, trying only with the allen screw I wasn't able to get the right position of the mirrors. It wasn't until I started playing with the philips type that I got the mirrors aligned. I do not know if they were designed for that reason, but they served me for the purpose :)

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#27 Artemio

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:51 PM

I didn't put the cover and everything together to verify the alignment, but instead used an eye piece to look through the OTA while still disarmed. This way I save a lot of time and hassles.

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#28 Artemio

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 10:54 PM

This is what I got once calibrated, using a white LED as an artificial start

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#29 Artemio

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 11:00 PM

Well, after all this process now I had learned to love even more my mighty 4SE. :flower:

Thanks all you guys for your help, you're a great and supportive band!
:band:

Thanks Hernando for the photos of the process of opening the 4SE, they show me what to expect and made me confident that it could be done.

I will be around, posting what I get with my reborned scope :jump:

#30 ibase

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 11:53 PM

Art, nice documentation/pics, glad to be of help somehow.This thread will go a long way in helping other 4SE owners who might have similar problems in the future. Thanks!

Best,

#31 Tel

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 03:07 AM

Just a thought, Art, but if the Philips headed screws are the mirror adjusters, is it at all possible, (like with some Newtonians), that the Allen screws, (difficult to see precisely but next to the Philips screws ?), serve to lock the mirror in position once adjusted ?

In other words, the Allen screws are slackened, the adjustment made with the Philips screws and then the Allen screws are re-tightened ?

In all events, it's good to know your 'scope is once more up and running ! :waytogo:

Best regards,
Tel

#32 Peter9

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:46 AM

Great result a Art and thanks for posting the procedure.

(Hi. Hernando, good to see you around again.)

Regards. Peter.

#33 Artemio

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 10:13 AM

Just a thought, Art, but if the Philips headed screws are the mirror adjusters, is it at all possible, (like with some Newtonians), that the Allen screws, (difficult to see precisely but next to the Philips screws ?), serve to lock the mirror in position once adjusted ?

In other words, the Allen screws are slackened, the adjustment made with the Philips screws and then the Allen screws are re-tightened ?

In all events, it's good to know your 'scope is once more up and running ! :waytogo:

Best regards,
Tel


Hummm ... Interesting!

As I said, I have no previous experience in collimating a scope (or anything else ;-) ... I read the manuals already posted on how to collimate the other Maks, I saw the pair of "big" and "small" screws, but didn't understand the functions of each one. Now that you say it in plain english, that makes totally sense. I believe the Allen serve for that purpose.

I will give myself a little more time and will open the scope deeply so will know for sure the function of each one (and will clean up the mirror, that collected a lot of dust in the process!). I hope it will add more light in how to manage this scope.

Cheers! :bow:

#34 ibase

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 11:38 AM

(Hi. Hernando, good to see you around again.)


Hi Peter, thanks! Glad to be here as always.
Clear skies!

Best,

#35 Geo.

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 02:11 PM

Before I'd try to collimate the Mak I'd spin the tube off the rear cell, remove the primary and check the screws that hold the baffle tube in place. Also check the baffle tube to see if it is perpendicular to the plate. I've seen the tube *BLEEP* in the plate after a fall. Can be fixed by removing the tube and rethreading it into the plate straight. At least you'll have it true engough to have sufficient adjustment to collimate it.

#36 Artemio

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 03:59 PM

Before I'd try to collimate the Mak I'd spin the tube off the rear cell, remove the primary and check the screws that hold the baffle tube in place. Also check the baffle tube to see if it is perpendicular to the plate. I've seen the tube *BLEEP* in the plate after a fall. Can be fixed by removing the tube and rethreading it into the plate straight. At least you'll have it true engough to have sufficient adjustment to collimate it.


I am getting more and more valuable advices! :bow:

Definitely I will open the scope again (now I know I can put it back together, hehe) and check all this, as well as the function of the screws.

When I was looking for more info on how to fix the 4SE, the only reference I got was Hernando's photos. There is not much more info regarding the Nextstart 4SE over internet (at least, I couldn't find it easily). Maybe puting everything together, with clear ilustration and step by step photos, in a PDF format could help. :question:

Or maybe there is nobody trying to fix a 4SE, after all :roflmao:

#37 ibase

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 10:26 AM

Just for further reference, here are 75 photos of the operation/disassembly undertaken on the 4SE:

Nexstar 4SE Disassembly

Best,

#38 Artemio

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 10:13 PM

Great detail! there are some pictures I hadn't seen before.

It seems that the screw philips are locking the mirror, right? just like was suggested in a previous post.

Great!
Regards
Artemio

#39 ibase

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 11:58 AM

Thanks; most probably but not absolutely sure as it was my astro buddy doing all the adjustments and I was just taking pics to document the entire procedure.

Best,






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