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Well, there goes $40

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#1 pdfermat

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 08:05 PM

I'm in the process of building a new base for my xt12i, and am to the point where I need to laminate the bottom. Imagine my excitement when a local lumber yard was able to locate a 29"x50" piece of Ebony Star remnant for $40. I went to pick it up today, paid at the front office, drove around to the back, and there it was. In my excitement, I failed to do my due dilligence, and assumed that the Wilsonart description "textured gloss" described what I needed. You know what's coming here, don't you? I'm now the proud owner of a completely SMOOTH piece of laminate. From what I've read, it's the bumpy surface on the laminate that makes it ideal for azimuth motion. Sigh.

Should I even bother putting it up for sale/trade in the SS? Would people maybe use it for altitude bearings?? I guess I'll try and call the lumber yard tomorrow and see if I can exchange it for something more usefull for a modest re-stocking fee.

Oh well, no one to blame but myself.

#2 cpr1

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 10:40 PM

Man, I am sorry to here that. For azimuth I used frp or nrp. The NRP has a smaller texture. The FRP worked really well on my scope rebuild. It is very smooth not bumpy at all. I used 1.5 inch teflon pads, and a center pad.

#3 pdfermat

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 11:38 PM

Yeah, well what can ya do...

Thanks for the tip on the frp and nrp, I'll give it a look.

#4 BDC1974

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 09:55 AM

I ended up doing almost the same thing. I ordered mine but I believe there are 2 thicknesses with one textured and one smooth. I ordered the thinner one not realizing at the time that it was the smoother one. After waiting a week or two I was really disappointed when I realized it was smooth. I ended up with a big roll of smooth laminate and since I ordered it I was stuck with it. Ended up using FRP from Home Depot.

#5 frito

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 02:24 PM

FRP, its the way to go now that ES is pretty much all gone. heck i was reading a book on building dobsonian telescopes last night and it said that wilson art discontinued the real ebonystar that everyone was using on dobs way back in 2006. the book even has tests and the #50 ES is better than FRP but as weight/pressure increases on the material they even out and FRP is just as good at that point. i FRP'd out my alt and az on my XT8 weeks ago and love the results. the Alt would have been too smooth but the added pressure from the tension springs makes it work very well even on this light of a scope.

#6 pdfermat

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 07:05 PM

Thanks for the tip everyone on the frp. It looks like I can get a sheet of it at my local Home Depot for about $30. The surface looks nice and bumpy from the pic, so I'll bet it is exactly what I need.

#7 frito

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 02:10 AM

yep i got my sheet from home depot. its the right stuff, its made by glasteel.

#8 BDC1974

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 04:07 PM

The only problem I had using the FRP is that it is pretty rigid. When I attached using contact cement, the FRP wanted to pull up from the rocker. I ended up using screws at either end to lock it down. Also it is messy. Make sure you wear a mask and long sleeve shirt because it will leave a nasty rash wherever it hits.

#9 pdfermat

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 04:39 PM

I was wondering about what adhesive to use. I have some contact cement that I purchased to use with the Wilsonart laminate, but I see that there is an adhesive that is marketed specifically for FRP as well.

Thanks for the tip about the screws, I'll definitely re-enforce where I can on the bottom.

#10 Norm Meyer

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Posted 15 December 2012 - 02:36 PM

Don't give up. I used a piece from my bathroom sink
cutout and it was smooth and worked fine. I didn't
use teflon strips at the time as I didn't have any. I
bought some round furniture glides that are self sticking
and it worked out ok. I'm not sure if the glides were
teflon or nylon I think probably nylon. Anyway the smoother
surface on the laminate from the sink cutout worked out
fine with the not so slippery nylon. Granted the scope was not really heavy and that may be why it worked for me.

Hope this helps.

Norm

#11 cpr1

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Posted 15 December 2012 - 10:04 PM

Pat, I used contact cement to attach mine. Just follow directions with the contact cement. I attached to bare wood. It took about 25 to 30 minutes for the contact cement to be dry enough to attach the two surfaces. Then I used a hard roller and rolled it for awhile with as much pressure as I could muster. It shows no signs of coming apart. Good luck.

#12 pdfermat

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Posted 15 December 2012 - 10:42 PM

Sounds good...contact cement it is (reinforced with screws)!!!






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