Posted 27 December 2012 - 10:50 PM
Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:23 AM
Posted 28 December 2012 - 10:07 AM
It's a tight area inside the baffle tube and if you've never worked with flocking material I would actually practice on similar sized (1") tubes first. Then just pull the corrector (note the orientation) and work carefully (staying away from any contact with the primary mirror) and you should be fine.
Posted 28 December 2012 - 10:27 AM
Posted 28 December 2012 - 10:29 AM
Posted 28 December 2012 - 02:36 PM
I'd just paint the inside ultra flat Black paint. no real benifit on those they have a very well designed baffle system. If you are going to do long exposure Astro photography,possibly a little help with image stability.
But a bit down the road your looking at parts of the glue letting go, peeling UUCK..
I only experienced one type of flocking that really helped,
it was a truss and the foot or so above the mirror and secondary was painted with a mixture of Kitty Litter (preferably unused and flat Black paint allied with a roller
Posted 28 December 2012 - 02:57 PM
Posted 28 December 2012 - 09:59 PM
A piece of flocking paper inserted from the visual back almost reaching the top of the baffle (to avoid vignetting) darkens the interior nicely.
I am not sure I noticed any improvement, but reducing that scattering should make some improvement in the view even if just in the mind. It's comforting knowing the baffle is light tight. So, if some errant ray actually makes it into the primary baffle, in itself a feat, then attenuating it before striking the focal plane is nice.
I'd recommend flocking the inside of the primary baffle, maybe not the entire OTA unless someone can offer some evidence the latter makes an improvement.
Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:52 AM
Posted 29 December 2012 - 10:41 AM
Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:36 AM
Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:52 AM
You can gently pole out any kinks in the paper so nothing sticks into the light path. Do a quick out of focus star test to see if the paper is infringing on the light cone. You might see an odd shape on one edge of the de-focused image. If so, fix it (pull it back from the top or smooth out the wrinkle) and press on.
Posted 30 December 2012 - 03:03 PM
It's your telescope, and you can do what ever you want with it, but you do realize that carbon fiber tubes take longer to reach ambient air temperature. If you insulated it even more with flocking material it may never reach ambient temps.
I was planning on overhauling my C11 soon. Going to try and go the whole 9 yards with a carbon fiber tube and all. Think flocking would be worth it?