Mirror lock on 10" Classic LX200
Posted 09 January 2013 - 11:21 PM
I want to be sure I do this right and not damage anything in the process.
Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:17 AM
Then I put on my TCF focuser which only has about 1.5" or so of total focusing distance available. That left me with 3/4" that I could focus inward from the position where my 9mm lens was in focus, and 3/4" that I could focus outward. That will allow me to focus in/out slightly to compensate for any small focusing adjustments that might be needed from one night to another due to "seeing" and the like.
Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:01 AM
FWIW, I'm not sure how effective the spring/bolt thing is. But since moving to an OAG, this point is moot.
I would be surprised if you could move the mirror to its full travel and still be able to focus with an external focuser. But let us know if this works.
Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:49 AM
Chris Vedeler lock method
On this page he mentions that for CCD imaging he uses 3x1" spacers and then just compresses the spring to be locked. Given that how I plan to use this telescope is exclusively CCD imaging, I'm not sure I see the need for putting in a spring that I'm simply going to compress to closed. It appears to me is that if I use something shorter, like a 3" to 4" bolt with just a plastic spacer and a wingnut, I just keep it all loose till I find the ideal position and then just lock the sucker down. I'm not interested in touching the focus knob after that. Am I missing something here or is this correct?
Posted 28 January 2013 - 01:02 PM
Posted 28 January 2013 - 04:02 PM
Sorry can't help with the mirror lockdown but I figured I would say the Moonlite has a getting started doc that mentions you should position the drawtube mid way in, then focus with the primary. Then you can finely focus with the Moonlite.
Did not read that but I was planning on doing exactly that. I have 3 cameras so I need to set their placement so they are ideally centered at the midpoint of the Moonlite so I have the best flexibility +/-.