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Tasco 7TE-5 paint

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#1 turk123

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:40 AM

I have been looking through this forum for information about paint color for an early tasco 7TE-5 that I would like to repaint. The scope has some bad scratches and it is time to repair them.

Can anyone recommend a paint? Is the Krylon Ivory appropriate? My scope is "brighter" than the ivory.

Turk

#2 CharlieB

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:50 AM

I used the appliance epoxy white. Works well and bakes on nicely.

#3 turk123

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:53 PM

I used the appliance epoxy white. Works well and bakes on nicely.


Krylon or Rustoleum? Are they both similar color?

Turk

#4 CharlieB

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 10:47 PM

I'll double check the cans, but I'm pretty sure it was Rustoleum. It also comes in a Biscuit color which is great for some classic scopes like the Swift 83x series.

#5 mikey cee

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:29 PM

I recommend ACE Appliance Epoxy White when I redid my Tasco 20TE. I painted pop cans and held them alongside the tube and it was a dead ringer. ;) Mike

#6 droid

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 12:59 AM

First off, Id highly recommend readfing this thread, before you start.

http://www.cloudynig...lassics/Numb...

Are we talking total strip and repaint? or just trying to match the color and spot paint???

#7 turk123

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 02:51 AM

I will take a look at the rust oleum.

Mike, I have an Ace just down the street from my office. I will also look at that white!

This is a total strip. When I first acquired the scope I redid the legs and mount, but felt the tube was "OK". Now that I've owned it several years, all I see are the paint chips and scratches. Guess its time to learn how to do this. I did read that thread. Very informative and I will follow those instructions. I'll take a before picture and post before I start.

Turk

#8 CharlieB

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 01:08 PM

The paint I used was indeed Rustoleum.

#9 turk123

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 02:34 PM

Thanks Charlie.

Here is a picture of the scope. If you look real close and squint :mad: you can see the scratches in the paint. Needs to be fixed.

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#10 CharlieB

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 05:01 PM

If the scratches are not too bad, you can spray a bit of the paint into a small container and use a toothpick to gradually build up the layers so they are just proud of the original paint. Then, after the paint has thoroughly cured, wet sand the area with 1200 grit paper and then buff it out. Stripping an OTA completely is a LOT of work when you wet sand every coat until you get that perfect finish. It took me two months to refinish my Swift 831 tube.

#11 turk123

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 07:07 PM

It is actually scratched pretty well. I need to learn how to do this anyway. I can start with the dew shield and practice with it.

1200 grit wet sand? I have not read about that yet. Can you explain further?

#12 CharlieB

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 07:31 PM

It's just some 1200 grit silicone carbide paper that you keep wet with water. You can start with 600, though. Wet sanding gives a finish you can't get any other way.

#13 mikey cee

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:26 PM

Tom here is a pic of my primed and painted pop can next to my unpainted Tasco 20TE. ;) Mike

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#14 turk123

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:34 PM

Now that is a nice match!

#15 turk123

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Posted 19 January 2013 - 09:31 AM

Well I took the plunge and stripped and JB Weld patched the scratches on the refractor body. Sanded, primed it with several coats and painted with the ACE hardware epoxy paint. Very nice match by the way. Thanks Mike!

I sprayed light coats first to gradually cover the JB weld. Sanding with #400 and then #600. I then started adding coats of white. The paint can states that if you are going to build up layers of paint, to spray each coat, once dry to touch, in less than 1 hour. Otherwise it says to wait 5 days. I opted for every 15 minutes which worked just fine. I wet sanded with the 600 grit paper and realized this was too course. I ran off to the autoparts store for 1500 and 2000 grit paper knowing I had to get back within an hour!

I used the 1500 on the next coat and saw an immediate improvement in the shine. Next coat got the 2000 grit and it really started to look good. Continued until I covered all traces of the JB Weld, which is dark and surprisingly took many coats before it was covered,

Last coat, no sanding and I set the parts (tube and dew shield) up near my wood stove to cure. The wood stove did a great job of heating the parts to 150 degrees and holding it there for several hours.

How did it all come out? Spectacular!

I am now trying to figure out how the Finder comes apart? It seems like the main black ring holding the objective will not turn out. What do I do?

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