Posted 28 February 2013 - 07:19 AM
He said this last week, but, it was not promised last week, this week it was promised.
Posted 28 February 2013 - 11:08 AM
Posted 28 February 2013 - 11:35 AM
Hopefully "soon" is sooner than what I predict.
Posted 28 February 2013 - 02:26 PM
Posted 01 March 2013 - 05:51 PM
Posted 01 March 2013 - 07:32 PM
Posted 11 March 2013 - 05:49 PM
The two images I was able to capture (before having to shut down and pack it up due to some travel I was doing) were of M81 (which was too high for my Fork mounted LX200), and my perenial favorite -- M51.
The M81 was with the bad alignment, M51 was with good alignment and AO-8 assist:
My only issue is that this sucker is heavy! Next time I set up, I will leave up and just cover it. If I'm away for any time, I'll store the OTA and keep the Mount covered up -- wayyy to much to pack up at the end of a session. But one thing for the weight -- when it is windy, that mount is rock-solid...
Posted 11 March 2013 - 05:58 PM
As far as wind goes it may not be obvious but you can really see it when you hook up a live view camera like a DSLR in frame and focus mode. If the star stays rock solid steady in the cross-hairs when a gust of wind comes by then fine, otherwise not. I look forward to more tests when you dive back into it.
Posted 11 March 2013 - 06:53 PM
Posted 11 March 2013 - 07:34 PM
The very bottoms of their tripod legs are blue anodized. That won't last very long at all. Keep it covered or at the very least do some research on UV protection clear coat spray. The krylon stuff has bad ratings so I am not sure what other choice you have other than taking it to an auto paint shop and having them shoot clear on them.
Posted 12 March 2013 - 10:30 AM
Posted 12 March 2013 - 12:44 PM
It is the same shrink wrap used to wrap boats and cars.
Posted 12 March 2013 - 02:41 PM
Posted 12 March 2013 - 03:48 PM
But she still tracks to an arc second
Posted 12 March 2013 - 04:09 PM
On the topic of the fading. This has to do with a few different factors. Did the anodizers use biological or metalic pigments? Biological breaks down twice if not three times faster. Also to properly annodize color is a multi step process. There is the cheap and easy way to do it and the right way. I think it is safe to assume that mass produced telescope parts are done as cheap as possible.
I think just keep a penny jar and every year or so take the faded pieces to an aluminum anodizing shop and have them re-done. Or spend a little more and have them done right the second time which then should last several years.
Posted 12 March 2013 - 07:50 PM
Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:10 PM
But, yes, on other anodized parts exposed to the sun. They work great, just make sure you get the kind that blocks UV, yes they are out there. They are expensive when covering an entire boat, but, the small pieces for the tripod section, hell, you might be able to get a local shop to give you the scraps.
Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:12 PM
When you say "tracks to an arc second" what does that mean exactly. Does it mean that when tracking you can be off by as much as an arc second or that you can lead/lag the object by an arc second.
I have a 14" on the way and am very excited.
Posted 12 March 2013 - 09:44 PM
Tony, meaning I sometimes see about a 1 pixel elongation which amounts to less that an arc second tracking error. I often see perfectly round stars if Starlock finds a bright guide star.
Posted 13 March 2013 - 12:07 AM
Posted 13 March 2013 - 07:28 AM
Posted 15 March 2013 - 02:50 PM
Posted 15 March 2013 - 06:02 PM
Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:28 PM