Posted 28 January 2013 - 12:06 PM
Is this becauce of its 60mm apature? Would there be improvement if I move to 80t or 100t?
Posted 28 January 2013 - 01:02 PM
I dont think it's the aperture, before I got my SM 90mm I used and binoviewed with an SM40, it was ok.
Whats the brightness like with just an eyepiece in the diagonal.
Posted 28 January 2013 - 03:11 PM
Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:30 PM
Thanks for your comment. Maybe it's because of my celestron binoviewer.
Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:40 PM
Can you see proms with your bino's? I could see surface detail but couldn't find proms so I have to take bino's out to see proms.
Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:19 AM
Posted 29 January 2013 - 11:35 AM
Posted 30 January 2013 - 06:59 PM
I bet it is due to vignetting. The binoviewer is probably forcing you to push the blocking filter (perhaps a 6mm) all the way forward to come to focus so that the BF is stopping the scope down to a 25mm or something.
Try an experiment. Bring the scope to focus with the binoviewer. Remove the binoviewer but leave the focuser where it is. Rig up something, perhaps rolled cardboard to bring the eyepiece to focus without moving the focuser (ie, you will have to hold the eyepiece away from the BF to come to focus). See if it looks as terrible.
Or else just note where the blocking filter comes to focus with the binoviewer, remove it, and by projecting on a white card, see how big the sun is at the point where the BF sits.
Other thoughts: a sweet spot issue? E.g., if you center the rim of the sun, do they appear?
The power seems reasonable (25mm/1.6 in an LS60).
Is this a tilt or PT LS60? PT would surprise me, but I wonder if there is some odd thing about the tilt plus the Barlow plus the blocking filter narrowing the sweet spot.
Also, did you try the 25mm eyepiece plus the Barlow without the binoviewer?
Is it possible that the binoviewer has poor transmission in red? I guess a white object should look bluish then.
Posted 31 January 2013 - 06:37 AM