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first try at capture

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#1 dragonslayer1

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:15 AM

Well finally think I am on road to Video Photography. My scope was acting up and had to collimate between shooting. I don't know how to shrink the pics tho. Other ones I could cut down in windows pictures file but can't find the option on these to do it??? :confused: Almost all were with software that came with grabber and one was with Sharpcap,,heres one

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#2 dragonslayer1

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:25 AM

Thats M42 W/ CPC 9.25, 2" diagonal to VSS+ with MR5 with small spacer in between,,, I wonder how people get horsehead, running man and all the great shots of barely visible stuff with video cams?? this was at sens x128. HMMMMMMM :question:
Kasey,,, PS this sure beats cell phone pic of image on a screen :jump:

#3 Dwight J

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 02:22 PM

Looks like a very dark background in your image. That is hiding all the detail you are looking for. Raise the brightness level in the video controls to reveal fainter portions. You didn't mention how long the integration was. The default exposure time is enough to show the trapezium area but 7 to 15 seconds are needed to show fainter sections. Make sure you have changed the SYNC option in the camera menu to "LINE" so that you can expose longer than the default exposure.

#4 GlennLeDrew

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 07:41 PM

In this camera, the exposure options are VBS, INT and LINE. Start with INT, and if still-longer exposures are required, select LINE, which doubles the INT settings (up to a max of 112 seconds).

#5 Atl

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 09:51 PM

Thats M42 W/ CPC 9.25, 2" diagonal to VSS+ with MR5 with small spacer in between,,, I wonder how people get horsehead, running man and all the great shots of barely visible stuff with video cams?? this was at sens x128. HMMMMMMM :question:
Kasey,,, PS this sure beats cell phone pic of image on a screen :jump:


Sens up 128 should load the screen with detail. Make sure auto gain control is set to manual and crank the gain a bit. Good first effort...mine was similar. To shrink the pic download the free image editor Gimp, then save as a .jpg. It will give you compression options.

#6 dragonslayer1

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 09:54 AM

OK tried again last night but really poor conditions with clouds, thin wispy clouds etc. But the longer the exposure the more washed out it seems, and moved gain from full left to 3 over but still would seem to wash out... Heres same pic @ 15 sec...What really is a bummer is go on 2 week work marathon with no viewing.. :bawling: but am blessed to have a job :jump:,,
Kasey

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#7 Atl

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:43 AM

Alright, looking a lot better, but I am sure your camera can go way more sensitive, and also note that B&W mode is more sensitive. If you have a manual that explains all of the settings go over them well, then experiment with the camera on a distant target in full daylight. Also LET it be washed out just a little. That will actually show more detail. If you notice most of the video images are a bit washed out.

#8 dragonslayer1

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:53 AM

Hey Atl
Thank you for all your input and advice, is well taken. When I tried longer exposure (integration) beyond 15 sec the whole viewing screen would just eventually go like bright white like center of pic and could see no details,,, and I do need to just practice more,,, now just need weather and work schedule on same page LOL.. And that frame grabber you recommended is A1,, works great, thank you
Kasey

#9 Atl

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:03 AM

It is just practice. You got a way better camera than mine and you can see what mine is doing at 96X sens up (B&W of course) using a c90 of all things. My original idea for my "low end" thread was to make a joke about using such low end gear, so I know you can do way better than I could dream of. One other suggestion: after adjusting sens up it restarts accumulation. Wait a full minute or so for the accumulation to build. Also don't snap frames...take video and then use virtual dub (free) to break apart the frames, then pick a good frame and post it.

#10 nytecam

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:53 AM

In this camera, the exposure options are VBS, INT and LINE. Start with INT, and if still-longer exposures are required, select LINE, which doubles the INT settings (up to a max of 112 seconds).

WOW - you guys certainly have a complicated video system :confused: Good luck :cool:

#11 dragonslayer1

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 12:23 PM

not complicated at all. Just because a vehicle wanders off the road a lot it it the vehicle or driver??? Am sure in this case its the driver and not the equipment.. :foreheadslap: Kasey

#12 GlennLeDrew

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 03:05 PM

Kasey,
A short exposure will retain an attractively dark sky, but fainter structure is not recorded. A somewhat longer exposure will start to bring out sky fog, and now the fainter bits of a nebula are brought out. An even longer expisure further brightens the sky and nebula, but no more nebulosity may be seen; you've already captured all there is to see.

For fainter nebulae and the outer parts of galaxies, an exposure which brings out the sky glow to at least some extent is required, otherwise you're not seeing all there is to see. But too much exposure gains nothing but a 'washed out' view.

To boost contrast, by darkening the nasty sky glow (artificial light pollution *and* natural airglow), use a suitable filter; I use the Orion Skyglow Imaging filter, but there are other options.

In general, keep gain (AGC) at minimum, increasing it only when you cannot use or do not want a longer exposure.

For objects like M42, which have a very wide range of surface brightness, no one exposure works for the entire object. A very brief exposure nicely reveals the brightest Huygenian region around the Trapezium. But much longer exposures are required to bring out the much fainter outer loop of reflection nebulosity, grossly 'burning out' the inner region. The best exposure is the one which brings out the aspect you wish to see.






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