Scanner vs. DSLR/macro lens for digitizing
Posted 02 May 2013 - 08:08 PM
Posted 02 May 2013 - 10:46 PM
See what happens and go from there. If you have a lot of slides from years past then maybe a scanner may be an option, but for now... The Canon 9000f is probably the best of the flatbeds, but it needs Siverfast Version 8 to bring out the best. Mind you - any flatbed scanner would probably benefit from SF.
Posted 03 May 2013 - 01:23 AM
Advantage is that they show steps to do it within Lightroom, which is what I use.
Something they don't cover in detail is the spectrum of your light source. I've been using a white LED panel, but I think that I may switch to strobe-based light sources for good spectrum coverage.
Posted 03 May 2013 - 02:39 AM
Posted 03 May 2013 - 08:46 AM
Samir, that is interesting to hear that your results at f8 are not to your liking, because that (i.e., f8 and aperture priority) is what I have read one should do. Also, not having done any of this yet, I can imagine how it might be relatively easy to shoot 35mm slides with a macro setup, but for strips (35mm & 120) there will need to be a way to keep the film flat. Maybe buying and using the film carriers from a flatbed would be the way to go.
Basically, I've got somebody who is very knowledgeable about all of this saying the the DSLR method is best, while at the same time I'm thinking that a flatbed would be mighty convenient . Moreover, the images by those here who use flatbeds look very nice to my eyes.
I'm going to try the DSLR/macro since I have it, but I'm trying to understand whether I might be missing something a flatbed would offer me e.g., ease of use if the quality is no worse.
Posted 03 May 2013 - 04:30 PM
Posted 03 May 2013 - 10:00 PM
They worked fairly well for slides back in the day and with digital you get to see how they look in short order.
Posted 03 May 2013 - 10:57 PM
Posted 04 May 2013 - 12:07 AM
Nevertheless the DSLR, with a lot of care, can give very good results.
A couple of months back I had to scan an old B&W negative. My film scanner is no longer functional, and my flatbed scanner was on the other side of the world; so macro lens it was. The way I do it: use a milk acrylic for diffusion of the light, place negative (with glass cover if curly) and a flashgun for illumination, lens at f8. Vary distance and power of the flashgun until the Back-of-camera histogram looks perfect. Needs a slave on the flash, but one can of course also use a desk lamp. It's all rather fiddly but the results are fine, dependent on how much care one has input.
Posted 04 May 2013 - 05:30 AM
Posted 05 May 2013 - 11:10 AM
Posted 05 May 2013 - 08:29 PM
My wife said she would get me a scanner for my birthday later this month :-).
Quick curiosity question: for the flatbed scanners that do 35mm and 120, will they also scan 4x5 film? I ask because I just picked up a nice LF outfit for a steal.
Posted 05 May 2013 - 09:23 PM
Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:03 PM
Posted 06 May 2013 - 07:28 AM
**Igor, If a person were to get SilverFast, will the basic "SE" version do the job, or do you recommend "SE Plus"? I will start by playing with the software that comes with whatever scanner I get, but I wanted to ask while this thread is still alive.
Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:36 AM
Posted 06 May 2013 - 09:51 PM
If you shoot a lot of different films and need accurate colour matching - then the version with the IT8 targets is worthwhile. But I would suggest a basic version - and you can easily upgrade to the next grade - from SE to SE Plus or higher if you need to.
Posted 08 May 2013 - 07:14 PM
I'm going to try an Olympus bellows-based slide copier, with suitable 1-1 80mm bellows MACRO lens (although the 135mm bellows lens is also available). I guess I'll have to use slide film. For digitizing onto an APS-C sensor, the magnification will not be 1-1, of course, and that requires some fiddling around with extensions and parts of two old bellows, to get the right reduction.
The slides will probably be curved, wrinkled, crooked, etc, so the whole slide may not be in focus at the same time. I'm planning to use f/5.6 or f/6.3, and use Zerene Stacker to do a focus stack with perhaps a dozen subexposures. Hopefully, I can use live view and the Canon Electronic First Shutter Curtain (EFSC) feature to minimize vibrations.
Has anyone here tried focus stacking with a slide copier?
I suppose it's also possible to go 1-1 and make a mosaic of 2-4 DSLR shots (each one a shallow focus stack) per slide, if necessary. I'd hope that the slide is flat enough, so that there are no perspective problems during the mosaic combine, meaning I don't have to concoct some sort of telecentric combination setup for this.