Zeiss Microhead Conversion, anyone try?
Posted 02 May 2013 - 08:11 PM
Posted 03 May 2013 - 04:21 PM
Posted 03 May 2013 - 04:30 PM
You can see here microscope head
with same optics as Mark IV bino
so, optics are same here!
Many other examples are out there!
All in all, it depends whics head you use, but best quality are Carl Zeiss heads!
BUT, not all microscope heas are compatibile for astronomy remake!
Posted 03 May 2013 - 07:00 PM
Posted 04 May 2013 - 02:49 AM
Posted 04 May 2013 - 04:14 AM
Other differences does not exists, even Clear Aperture prisms are 28mm on both, and size of prisms are 30mm on both.
Difference between Mark IV Zeiss micro head and astro head optically does not exists, but there is slightly difference in diopters made, and screws on astro head that holds eyepieces, which is not necessary when looking almost all time of observing, because it is rare position that people observe in position upside down.
Posted 04 May 2013 - 04:25 AM
Format of eyepieces is not problem if they are bigger or smaller format, but most important is that they are NOT to large, for example, not everyone can use 2" formats eyepieces because eyes spacing, and 3" and larger noone can use, and they are too heavy!
Hope this helps!
Posted 07 October 2013 - 02:45 PM
The link to a doc that describes the adaptations I did :
Home made Binoviewer with Zeiss Binocular head
The "default" collimation is better than the one of my old denk II :
With 2 lasers, in the same positions :
3cm between the two eyepiece axes at 8m against 5cm for my well collimated denk II.
I find the result great and far less expansive than the true MarkV !
Posted 10 October 2013 - 12:51 PM
yes, very cool! Isn't there another possiblity - just use it with microscope eyepieces? you see heads come up all the time on ebay with eyepieces.
Posted 10 October 2013 - 01:49 PM
Yes I think it is possible. Some guys made nice analysis of the microscope eyepieces. And some seems to be excellent.
Using Microscope Eyepieces for Astronomy
The FOV may be reduced (<50°).
I my case I already had 40mm and 32mm plossl for doing H-Apha and a pair of panoptic and radian for the DSO and planets with my denk.
Cutting the eyepieces holders may seems risky and complicated. It is quiet easy by hand with a saw . Grinding to a flat surface can be done manually too with some patience.
I used a glue that supports 270kg/cm2 so I can hold myself on the eyepiece holder without any risk.
The link where I bought it :
I find this glue wonderful. It helps me a lot when I did my dobsons to fix aluminum parts together.
May be someone know a similar glue in the US market?
Posted 10 October 2013 - 04:15 PM
I wonder if this can be done successfully with Baader's 1.25" clicklock eyepiece holders?
Posted 10 October 2013 - 05:28 PM
I hesitated a lot but the price of 2 holders was close to half of the price of the head....
Posted 14 November 2013 - 06:14 PM
So - C. Thieullet - how did you saw your eyepiece collet to size? What kind of saw? How long did it take? How did you hold it still enough to apply force? How were the eyepiece holders collimated exactly?
I'm also considering using the Baader Click-lock eyepiece holders for the conversion, currently studying the feasibility vs the ones you used.
Anyone here have any suggestions of which kinds of eyepiece holders could do the job like the click-locks?
Thanks to all, pictures to come with a successful conversion!
Posted 10 December 2013 - 05:37 PM
Sorry for the delay.
A manual metal saw can do the trick. You have to remove all the parts of the eyepiece holder to keep only the tube.
Caution because when you attach the tube to your workbench you can deform it. I had the trouble. The best would be to put a tube inside to prevent this.
You can use a milling machine as well.
30mn - 45mm per holder to get a flat surface.
An easier option is to glue a T2 male thread on the eyepiece support and screw the holder on it.
You lost 4mm of optical path but you save time and you can change your eyepiece holder later.
collimation : I put tube+teflon to center the eyepiece holder when gluing.
Teflon because the glue do not glue on it. Your can do this with T2 male thread too.
After, the screws of the zeiss bino let you to achieve a perfect collimation of the eyepieces holders.
I did mine on moon during day time by putting craters at the top of each eyepieces and adjust the eyepiece holder supports so left and right views are matching.
You do not have to touch to the screw of the prism at all !
My advise : use quick lock. The screw annoys me more than helps me and I found that the eyepiece could be better centered sometime.
If you accept to not being able to adjust the focus at your eyepiece, you can use the taka eyepiece holder. They are the best I know.
hope that's help
Posted 11 December 2013 - 09:12 AM
At this point I'm trying to use a 3D printer to make a custom diopter for the Zeiss binoviewer.
Can the glue that you use support heavy eyepieces such as a 10mm Delos with confidence?
Also, I'm a little unclear about your use of a tube + teflon to center the eyepiece holders. Would you mind giving explicit details about your process?
Interesting about the screws vs. quick lock. I had a pair of Maxbrights and I really disliked using screws for every eyepiece change..not easy at night, very fussy!
Posted 11 December 2013 - 05:11 PM
Yes. No trouble. The glue can support 270Kg/cm2. A Delos is 0.5kg. I can hold myself (90kg) on 2 aluminum part glue together….I made the test...
Once glued, you can check and try to remove by hand the eyepiece holder. If glued correctly (clean surface, enough glue, >20mn drying) nothing move anymore.
Find a piece of 1.25 tube (pvc tube) so the eyepiece holder can be locked and centered on it.
Enlarge the bottom of the tube with the teflon so it fits exactly into the hole of the head of the bino (34mm on one side and less into the other).
Put the focuser at the minimum position to protect the thread from the glue.
Check and try before glueing.
Apply glue at the bottom of the eyepiece holder (all around) then put the 2 pieces together and press by hold 5mn.
Because the bottom of the eyepiece holder is flatten and leveled (parallel from its top : you have to take care of this) the centering is ok.
The glue do no glue on pvc and Teflon. So you can remove the tube after without trouble.
The centering will be good enough to do fine collimation with the screws that hold the top of the bino.
About screw, I do agree!
Before I was not changing eyepieces often : I was using a denk II. So no need with the powerswitch.
Since I did this other bino head with an other 21mm CA Zeiss bino head. The OP is 95mm ;-). I put a T2 connector at the nose.
Zeiss 21mm bino head
I spent tonight 15mn on the moon with this Mark IV head and my mewlon.
I am using a baader T2 diagonal + a x1 Siebert OCA to get only 25mm back focus more.
The results are incredibles…