Reprocess of M3
Posted 04 May 2013 - 08:48 AM
Posted 04 May 2013 - 09:10 AM
Very nice I see a few dark spots on perimieter but they're not intrusive, are you flatting? What made you decide to reprocess?
Thanks, yes I did use flats, and the spots don't show on the flats so I don't know where they came from. The first one I did I didn't stretch far enough. After doing M13, I got the confidence to push M3 a little harder. I think I over did the core a little though.
Posted 04 May 2013 - 10:14 PM
Great pic. It is interesting that we both imaged M3 the same night with similar telescopes. However I used 30 second subs due to my light pollution. I wanted to get more than 27 subs, but clouds rolled in after 27. You can see my picture in my post on this forum.
Comparing our two pictures, I can see that the stars in your picture on the fringe of M3 are brighter in your picture. This is most likey in due to your longer exposures. I can also see that the brightest star in your picture has the correct color (orange) while mine has a hint of orange in the halo around it. Not sure why I could not get the correct color on that star.
My question to you is how dark was your sky when you took your exposures. I am dealing with a red/white zone. I have not bought an autoguider camera yet, but am looking at the QHY5L-II with he Orion Mini Guide scope. I was originally looking at the SSAG, but someone on CN had suggested the QHY has a more sensitive camera. How do you like your SSAG?
Posted 05 May 2013 - 12:14 AM
I'm in a red/white zone also. You can check near the bottom of my M13 thread here for what my subs look like. The M3 subs are the same. I'm using an un-modded T2i and struggled for quite a while using an Orion sky glow astro photography LP filter. All my images were way to blue. It was suggested to me to shoot without the filter and this was my first try at it, and I got much more realistic color. So it can be done from our light polluted skies. I process in Photoshop and use Jerry's technique for star color here. . I think that if you stack more subs you'll get the color and be able to bring it out. The M3 that you have is quite nice .
As for the Orion SSAG with the mini 50mm guide scope has worked well for me guiding my Atlas EQ-G mount. Only issue I had was one night I couldn't get my laptop to see it no matter what I did. Turns out I have to plug it into the laptop before I plug in the T2i. I guess every other night I must have plugged it in before the camera, but this night I did the camera first. It was very frustrating until I figured that out.
The SSAG works great guiding with PHD. I've guided about 7 minutes with nice round stars and have no doubt I could go much longer. I'm going to try it with my 10" sct at just over 1500mm and see how that goes.
Posted 05 May 2013 - 10:13 AM
I found out that I had my camera color mode on netrual instead of daylight as Jerry suggests. I really should buy his book.
I am encouraged that you were able to take a 6.6 minute shot in a red/white zone without it being completely washed out. I might be able to get away with this in the best part of my sky, but when I took M3 it was towards Houston and my 30 second subs look like they are more washed out your than your 6.6 minute shot.
I have a baader skyglow filter and actually had forgotten to use it on my M3. Guess that was a good thing. I think the skyglow filter is useful for galaxies since I had used mine on some minute and a half test shots of the Leo Triplet that turned out better than expected.
Thanks for the help and encouragement.
Posted 05 May 2013 - 03:08 PM
Jeff, No problem any time. Clear Skies!!
Shawn, Thanks, it seems much better without the LP filter, of course it's cloudy here for the next week now that I figured this out.