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Elli Buk Cave 10" Cassegrain

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#51 turk123

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 09:52 PM

OK. So here is a Cave catalog picture of the 10" cave Cass telescope. Notice it has "polished" rings. Most pictures show just painted rings. I like the polish. What do you think???

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#52 Datapanic

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 10:10 PM

If it were me, I'd go with polished as pictured. I wouldn't paint the tube grey though. It might me nice to accent the Pier Cap, Clock Drive Housing, Cradle and Leg Levelers with wrinkle black, but that's your call.

#53 turk123

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 10:21 PM

If it were me, I'd go with polished as pictured. I wouldn't paint the tube grey though. It might me nice to accent the Pier Cap, Clock Drive Housing, Cradle and Leg Levelers with wrinkle black, but that's your call.


Painting the tube was never an option. I like the idea of possible using the wrinkle black as a highlight. Guess I'll mess around in photoshop.

#54 albert1

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Posted 07 May 2013 - 11:13 PM

I'm with you, keep the rings polished and the tube white. Your sailboat experience paid off on that OTA - what a difference. Nice job!

#55 John Higbee

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 04:46 AM

Tom - The combination of white tube, polished components per the ad picture, and wrinkle black components per Dan's list, would look great!

John

#56 Jim Curry

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 06:27 AM

Good stuff, Turk. I've got a 10" f/5 Cave that's going to need some work so your documentation is a great help.

Jim

#57 mustgobigger

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 07:01 AM

Polish...+

#58 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 07:36 AM

Polish...+


I'm going to take a ring outside and run it through the polish wheels to see how it looks. The machining rings in the metal will stop it from getting a mirror finish, but maybe that is good. Imperfections is the metal also will show, but the polishing should limit this.

OK, back to paint stripping. Love this "aircraft remover". Absolutely no need for bead stripping and roughing up the surface.

#59 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:48 AM

The rings got a coat of the famous "aircraft remover".

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#60 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:51 AM

In about 6-7 minutes you can begin to scrape (and I use that term lightly) the paint away. More like the paint just falls away from the aluminum. I hope I don't wake up tomorrow with a pool of aluminum on the floor. :lol:

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#61 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 08:53 AM

The final result. This did not take very long at all. One thing you need to remember is when finished, wash the parts with soap and water to remove all the paint remover or guess what, your paint won't stick. Did I say I liked this "Aircraft Remover"?

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#62 starman876

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:02 AM

What happens when you pour it over an aircraft? Does it vanish :lol: :lol:

#63 tim53

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:07 AM

The rings got a coat of the famous "aircraft remover".


There were airplanes in your Cave? :grin:

#64 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:08 AM

What happens when you pour it over an aircraft? Does it vanish :lol: :lol:


Like I said before, that's why I am doing this inside. I don't want to bring down any planes.

Ready, set, FIRE!

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#65 Dave M

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:09 AM

I need some of that aircraft remover while imaging :lol:

#66 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:25 AM

OK I need some advise. Should I be using a primer on the parts first? If so, what kind, brand, color? The two backs are just getting a flat black finish. The finder rings will get the industrial grey (or what ever color I pick).

Would the crinkle black be appropriate for the two backs?

#67 tim53

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 09:31 AM

I used a self-etching primer. Works great! Without primer, the paint will... ...well, it'll do what they all do on these old scopes, because nobody seemed to use primer on aluminum in those days!

Wrinkle black is very pretty when done right. And it's not hard to do right - just follow the instructions to a Tee. If you have an electric oven and enough SPUs to use it, set it at about 150F for a couple hours and it'll cure up nice and hard. Otherwise, give it a few days to dry.

I like the Instrument grey that Cave used in the 60s. They seem to have switched from that to the metallic grays and wrinkle black about the time your scope was built. I don't remember seeing an instrument grey scope with wrinkle black accents, but don't know if I've seen enough to say they never did that.

Of course, you can do what you want. I've always liked the color version of the catalog pic you show above, but think it would be even nicer looking if the tube were white.

-Tim.

#68 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 12:43 PM

With the recommendation of Tim, I bought Duplo-color self etching primer. It's reviews won out over the rustoleum version. I also bought a spray on metal cleaner just to get any oils or oxidation of the surfaces. I believe it has the etching component in it also.

I used a brass wire wheel on a grinder to spot polish the components as some of the castings are quite rough. You can see spots that Cave's crew ground down to "shape" the part, but my no means did they spend much time. I used the brass wheel to smooth out some of the rougher areas.

The instructions call for 3 thin coats of primer, which I did. (For those of you worried about the ring bottom in the picture, it got one last shot.) 2 minutes between coats (the paint is dry to the touch by then) and let dry for 30 minutes or longer. Here are the primed parts.

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#69 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 12:47 PM

If you have an electric oven and enough SPUs to use it, set it at about 150F for a couple hours and it'll cure up nice and hard. Otherwise, give it a few days to dry.



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#70 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 12:49 PM

Here is the ring just before priming. It shows the smoothing I did to the metal.

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#71 tim53

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 01:01 PM

If you have an electric oven and enough SPUs to use it, set it at about 150F for a couple hours and it'll cure up nice and hard. Otherwise, give it a few days to dry.



Acronym Definition
SPU Strategy and Policy Unit
SPU Synergistic Processor Unit
SPU Short Procedure Unit (various hospitals)
SPU Society for Pediatric Urology
SPU Sub-Picture Unit
SPU Secure Processing Unit
SPU Strategic Procurement Unit
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SPU Socket Power Unit
SPU Subsystem Power Unit
SPU SAP Processing Unit
SPU Sociedad Peruana de Urología
SPU S-Band Polar Ultra
SPU Special Planning Unit
SPU Simulator Processor Unit
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SPU Special Purpose Unit
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SPU Segmented Polyurethane
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SPU Seattle Pacific University
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SPU Split, Croatia (Airport Code)
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It's not on the list! :shocked:

Spousal Permission Unit! :grin:

#72 starman876

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 01:37 PM

I wish I was retired or had the day off to play like you are Turk.

#73 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 04:20 PM

I wish I was retired or had the day off to play like you are Turk.


Well, I'm not retired, but I own my own business that I am able to get away from when I need to. Also, a lot of my work is done on the computer from anywhere. I tend to have a phone stuck in my ear most of the day.

#74 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 05:55 PM

The mirror holder parts got three coats of flat black and they look good. Put them away for a few days and let them cure. The misses would shoot me if I baked them in her oven.

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#75 turk123

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 07:42 PM

Lots of small parts to be polished. I did 6 finder thumbscrews (not shown) and this assortment of parts. At first I thought I would replace all the hardware with new if I could get equivalent items. After thinking about it, I kind of realized I would be throwing away the original parts for new. The brass washers shown here were pretty well black in appearance and although they did not clean up perfectly, I kind of think they ought to stay. They have a right to stay, they are original. Am I getting too sentimental? :bawling:

On another note, the spacers shown in the top of the picture interested me. When they were filthy, they looked like brass. Now that they are cleaned up, the have taken on a rose color. What metal it that? :question:

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