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iEQ45 gear upgrade?

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#26 timmbottoni

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:57 PM

So the mix that would make our nights easier consists of ioptron's worm, Paul's belt/pulleys, better bearings and some cleaning/new grease maybe(superlube or else) ?


I have the new worm, and regreased it with SuperLube, and the new gear uses new bearings and one new pulley wheel, but the same pulley. So far, I think I'm set once I figure out the optimal PHD guiding settings for my setup. I still want to train the PEC and see how much of a difference it makes, but if one were simply to accept that guiding is always needed, I don't think I would bother with the PEC.

Having gone from around 60 arc sec of PE with some pretty steep ups and downs, to what I now estimate to be something like 6-15 arc sec of PE with a very smooth curve is really quite good in my opinion.

Timm

#27 timmbottoni

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:04 PM

Paul

Thanks - A ball ended hex key did the trick for me.

I received the iOptron upgrade kit today. It contained a new worm, 2 bearings, a new pulley, a new encoder, a few bits of fastening hardware and, of course, no instructions. I have the December 2011 RA Worm Gear Cleaning instruction pdf and will use that as a guide unless someone has something more relevant.
Since a single pulley is provided I assume that there is no change to the belt/pulley system so that I will have the old style belt/pulleys.

I got a new puppy! Ursa Minor is a 10 week old female Golden Retriever. She should be a big help in the mount disassembly process, as long as she doesn't eat anything too important.

Bob


If you can take the old one apart, you will be able to put the new one in as a replacement, and your old instructions are still relevant. The worm can only go one way, and the new bearings aren't directional. The new worm has a larger diameter shaft, which I think also helps (just a hunch), and the encoder seems to be unidirectional also.

Timm

#28 rkayakr

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:52 PM

Timm
Got it apart and got the update that the bearings are no longer unidirectional. I have reassembled the worm several times but the shaft, although turnable by hand, is not easily turned. I'm going to complete the assembly and measure the current as soon as I acquire a meter that measures over 200 ma.

#29 timmbottoni

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 03:26 PM

Timm
Got it apart and got the update that the bearings are no longer unidirectional. I have reassembled the worm several times but the shaft, although turnable by hand, is not easily turned. I'm going to complete the assembly and measure the current as soon as I acquire a meter that measures over 200 ma.


If you don't mind, can you let me know how you measure the current? Mine isn't easily turned by hand either, but it sounds good when I run it, and I don't honestly know how to measure the current. :bow:

Thanks,

Timm

#30 rkayakr

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 04:27 PM

Timm

I got a multimeter that measures current at Radio Shack. You put it inline in the power circuit:

positive source to positive (red) test lead
negative (black) test lead to mount positive power line

mount negative power line to negative source

Mine measures about 0.45 amp, varying from 0.39 to 0.49. The doc suggests less than 0.6 amp is good.

Bob

#31 Phillip Easton

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 08:48 PM

With what I had to measure the current I turned off the mount, took the mainboard out and put alligator test clamps on the switch connections. This completes the circuit and you can measure the current. I get around 0.45-0.5 amps when I measured mine.

Cheers!
Phillip

#32 timmbottoni

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 09:03 PM

Timm

I got a multimeter that measures current at Radio Shack. You put it inline in the power circuit:

positive source to positive (red) test lead
negative (black) test lead to mount positive power line

mount negative power line to negative source

Mine measures about 0.45 amp, varying from 0.39 to 0.49. The doc suggests less than 0.6 amp is good.

Bob

\

Can you show a picture of what you mean? Sorry I'm so dense on this one.

Timm

#33 Astroeksarheio

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 07:24 AM

would like to see a picture of that too. I believe i know how to measure it but i want to confirm it.

btw what do you guys think about koyo bearings for the worm? heard those bearings are of high quality

#34 rkayakr

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 08:15 AM

Timm

Here is a short description:

http://laserpointerf...rent-42256.html

Where our mount goes in the circuit where the reference shows a light bulb.

#35 timmbottoni

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 12:15 PM

Thanks! I will see if I can try it on mine.

Timm

#36 timmbottoni

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 07:54 PM

My latest test results show a significant improvement over the original worm gear.

Timm

#37 Astroeksarheio

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 02:06 AM

Grats Timm. Its good to hear from many mouths that its working.
I reassembled mine too (without leaving any screws lol) but I havent measured current yet. Seems to work fine though the "laboring sound" that ioptron mentions in the manual is quite significant.
One thing i noticed with my little knowledge is that the shell/housing that holds the worm and motor is poorly crafted. Could barely make the worm sit right. Dont know if I am the lucky one but thats a part they should have made better.

#38 rkayakr

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 06:48 AM

Good news Timm
Haven't been able to test mine yet.
The attachment holes for the worm housing are large so that you can line them up. iOptron mentions a temp-late at the factory, but we get to do it by feel.
I noticed that relieving the load on worm by even the smallest amount makes a huge improvement in how easy it is to turn.

#39 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

I'll load my results one JPG page at a time for everyone to see since there doesn't seem to be a way to upload a PDF file...

#40 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:05 PM

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#41 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:06 PM

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#42 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:12 PM

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#43 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:12 PM

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#44 timmbottoni

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 10:12 PM

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#45 whwang

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 11:26 PM

Hi Tim,

Thank you for the test. Do you know what happens in page2 (PEC off, guide off)? It goes down continuously and there doesn't seem to be any periodic behavior.

Cheers,
Wei-Hao

#46 chboss

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 04:42 AM

Hi Tim

Wow what a difference between the original worm and the new one!
The new raw value looks good, but I think with some optimizations you should be able to get even better results while guiding.

My mount was guiding well but I did never measure the raw periodic error.
I was under the impression there were big corrections necessary with the original worm.
I have just received my new worm and will try to install it over the coming weekend. Looking forward to the results.

with best regards
Chris

#47 timmbottoni

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 06:52 AM

Hi Tim,

Thank you for the test. Do you know what happens in page2 (PEC off, guide off)? It goes down continuously and there doesn't seem to be any periodic behavior.

Cheers,
Wei-Hao


Hi,

It's only one period of the worm, so I don't know exactly but when I tested prior to this, it would come back up and follow the same basic cycle.

Timm

#48 Astroeksarheio

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 01:32 AM

Thanks to all for your inputs you guys. Awesome results Timm!

I noticed that relieving the load on worm by even the smallest amount makes a huge improvement in how easy it is to turn.

I second that. I believe that the perfect spot to tighten the worm up is right before it starts to play right and left. At that point(at least for me) its moving like its totally free especially with the koyo bearings i put on.

The bearigns of the kit seemed *BLEEP* to me. I hold them in my hands and twisted them. They turned like two or three times where the koyo turned eight times.

Cant wait to take my mount back to its pier to start testing too.

#49 orlyandico

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 03:26 AM

looks like the PEC is pretty darn useless.

unless my eyes are deceiving me, having PEC off while guiding is better than having PEC on while guiding.

#50 timmbottoni

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 10:32 AM

looks like the PEC is pretty darn useless.

unless my eyes are deceiving me, having PEC off while guiding is better than having PEC on while guiding.


The value to the PEC to me would be to get 1 min subs without guiding. If I can do that, then I wouldn't bother with the autoguiding setup, laptop, cables, etc. So if I can achieve that it would be very useful.

I would agree that there is no point in autoguiding with PEC turned on, but I just wanted to test it anyway to see if it worked because I had read conflicting statements about using PEC and autoguiding together.

My guidescope is a 50mm (200mm focal length) WO mounted on my WO GTF102 using the WO bracket. I am using an old Meade DSI to guide with, so I'm not entirely sure if I have the settings anywhere close to optimal yet, but I left the settings the same for all these test runs. Perhaps a better camera would also yield different results.

I'm going to experiment more with the settings to see what gives the best results and then post those at some point.

Thanks for the feedback,

Timm






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