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Need help removing vixen gear from motor shaft!

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#1 skycamper

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 11:39 AM

Hey there friends!
I have vixen MT-2 motors with brass gears that seem to be frozen to the shafts. I noticed tiny bits of green residues near the hex set screws. The set screws could be backed out with difficulty but the brass gears do not come off. Im afraid of forcing them because I dont want to damage anything. Is it possible the previous owner used loctite on these gears or could this be corrosion? I will post photos in a bit. Can these be loosend with a solvent? I dont see any rust.

Any ideas? I would like to center punch the shaft off the gear but thought I should post here first.
Thanks to everyone for helping!
Abraham

#2 John Carruthers

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 12:28 PM

try heating the gear, it may expand enough to come free or they may have used a touch of Loctite when it was assembled. If that doesn't work you'll need a small gear puller.
Don't tap it, the bearings are rather fragile.

#3 Cliff Hipsher

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 01:37 PM

Put some PB Blaster into the set screw hole and on the shaft to gear interface and let it soak at least over night. The green stuff is copper oxide from the brass gear. Verdigris, aka "Green Mung" is also an indication of galvanic corrosion between the steel set screw and the brass gear.


And, contrary to urban legend, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. It is a Water Displacement and lubricating product, and it took 40 tries to get it right.

#4 RTLR 12

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 02:52 PM

:waytogo:.

#5 greju

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:15 PM

"And, contrary to urban legend, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. It is a Water Displacement and lubricating product, and it took 40 tries to get it right."

While this may-or may not ;) be true many have used this product for decades to loosen frozen fasteners. I hardly think this is a coincidence. :grin: Quite frankly, WD would have been my first choice for the OP's problem.

#6 skycamper

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 04:39 PM

Those are great ideas, I will try a combination of them and see what happens. Thanks to those who replied. U guys are really awesome.

#7 RTLR 12

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 05:04 PM

As a professional, my choice would BP Blaster. A much better product for the task.

Stan

#8 greju

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 05:22 PM

As a professional, my choice would BP Blaster. A much better product for the task.

Stan


And that may well be why it costs $120.00 an hour for car repair work. ;) Let's keep in mind what the task actualy is. What it is not is loosening a spark plug from an aluminum head that did not have anti-sieze coumpound applied. And outside of a " professional" setting most do not have BP Blaster on hand but almost every household has a can of WD-or should anyways. :grin: As a "professionall" I am sure you are aware of the KISS philosophy. :foreheadslap: ;)

#9 skycamper

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:00 PM

Im trying WD-40 first. Its on my shelf in the garage and I found it in a box of free stuff from a garage sale. I have heard PB blaster is pretty good on rusted shafts and frozen nuts. I try that if the heat and WD-40 fail.

#10 greju

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:21 PM

:fingerscrossed:

#11 RTLR 12

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:32 PM

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.

Stan

#12 Cliff Hipsher

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:42 PM

WD-40

#13 Billydee

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 07:00 PM

Abraham,

You need a small pinion puller. This is a U shaped device with a screw in the middle. The U goes over the base of the gear and the screw contacts the shaft. You screw the screw pulling the gear off the shaft. You need to measure the position of the gear on the shaft and place it in the same place on the new motor.

I suggest you go to a model car hobby shop and see if the have one that will work. They use them on electric motors for the cars.

Here is a G-11 modification that shows how to remove the gear. Look at step 2 and click on the picture to enlarge it.

http://www.wilmslowa...ennan_gbox.html

Bill

#14 RTLR 12

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 08:23 PM

A simple tool like a battery terminal puller may work.

Stan

#15 greju

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 09:16 PM

A simple tool like a battery terminal puller may work.

Stan

"As a professional, my choice would BP Blaster. A much better product for the task."

Which is it? Are you trying to confuse the guy? :roflmao:

After that classy post earlier I guess a post with some real content to it, no matter how confusing, should be considered a step in the right direction. :lol:

My bet is on the WD. Which the link above to Wikipedia(?) calls a penetrateing oil I believe. :foreheadslap:

#16 skycamper

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:03 AM

Its sitting on the workbench with a little WD40, next comes the heat if its needed. Maybe I just light the thing on fire and see if that works. Then try the little gear puller idea, I bet if I took this to a radio controlled car toy shop or whatever they would just do it for me. Lets see what happens. I didn't think of some of these ideas so Im really happy I posted this.

#17 SkipW

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 12:19 AM

I had to remove a small pinion gear (~1/2" diameter) from a motor shaft. Just before ordering a gear puller from an internet hobby supplier I was in a local auto parts shop for windshield wipers and happened to ask about the smallest gear puller they had. They loaned me one for free! It was barely small enough, but popped it off in about five seconds, no muss, no fuss, and no damage to gear or motor. I took it back and recovered my $40 deposit about an hour after borrowing it.

#18 Cliff Hipsher

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 07:27 AM

A simple tool like a battery terminal puller may work.

Stan

"As a professional, my choice would BP Blaster. A much better product for the task."

Which is it? Are you trying to confuse the guy? :roflmao:

After that classy post earlier I guess a post with some real content to it, no matter how confusing, should be considered a step in the right direction. :lol:

My bet is on the WD. Which the link above to Wikipedia(?) calls a penetrateing oil I believe. :foreheadslap:


Yes, by definition WD-40 is a penetrating oil. In my side by side testing using W-40, Liquid Wrench, Deep Creep, PB Blaster, DOT 3 brake fluid, and some other rather nasty compounds, as a "rust buster," PB Blaster is only surpassed by DOT 3 brake fluid and the "nasty" compounds. In this context, the term "nasty" refers to compounds that are either acidic, caustic, or those that would attack the surface finish (paints, lacquers, enamels, etc.)or plastics (ABS, styrene, etc.). DOT 3 brake fluid will attack auto body finishes, similar paint systems, and some plastics, but DOT 3 brake fluid is not caustic or acidic.

And just so you know, I've been wrenching on machinery for over 40 years. I'm not only good at it, I'm lazy. If there is a way to do something that will not damage the equipment and will save time, then I'm all for it. Using PB Blaster is one of those things. I use it to break rust, lube throttle cables on my three motorcycles, my lawn mower, my lawn tractor, both trucks ('09 Toyota Tacoma and '92 Chevy Silverado with 248,000+ miles). I also use it to lube speedometer cables, clutch cables, choke cables, and as a general household lubricant. I do not own a can of WD-40. Not because it is a bad product, but because I believe PB Blaster is better.

#19 Binojunky

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:46 AM

Lots of good penetrating oils around, heck you can even use a bit of auto tranny fluid at a pinch,if nothing else is readily available. One old mechanic I served under used to swear by Coke, the drink, I once tried snorting Coke, all it did was make my moustashe all brown and sticky,anyway as far as the original problem, soak overnight with any penetrating oil, if its a small gear in bronze then heat from a hair dryer may be all you need,DA.(retired auto mechanic,aircraft mechanic, industrial mechanic for 48 yrs) :gramps:

#20 skycamper

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 07:13 PM

LOL!! Im trying it.

#21 skycamper

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 12:14 AM

One gear removed! WD-40 plus a hair dryer. It was tough to remove with my hands but the gear slid off. There was definitely something on the shaft. See photo. Not sure if it was the WD-40 or the heat. I'm leaning toward the heat. It did not come off with WD-40 alone. Had to wrap the motor in cloth to keep it cool from the hair dryer.

Attached Files



#22 John Carruthers

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 03:07 AM

:bow:

A hot air gun or chunky soldering iron are other good heat sources, I use a mini gas torch.
It's surprising how many gear/shaft joints use isocyanate as well as grubscrews, a touch with the torch and they slip off.
Seldom have to use a puller but sometimes nothing else will do.

#23 pjensen

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 07:11 AM

Not sure if it was the WD-40 or the heat. I'm leaning toward the heat. It did not come off with WD-40 alone.


If that is loctite on the shaft, then it takes heat to loosen it.

#24 skycamper

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 10:56 PM

How do you clean these gears? Not even sure what metal they are. I hope I didn't get any WD-40 inside the motor. I was told it would damage the lubrication.






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