First pic of Saturn with new mount
Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:03 PM
Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:33 PM
Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:36 PM
Posted 18 May 2013 - 08:49 PM
Can you tell me what you did? I'm still learning the whole process.
Unfortunately, I don't have a cook book answer here. I just noticed a color cast that didn't look quite right to me. I pulled up Photoshop and using the color balance tool, moved it towards cyan instead of red, and yellow instead of blue.
I did not care for what auto-color did in Photoshop. That left it way too green for my taste.
Posted 19 May 2013 - 08:14 AM
I also sharpened it a little. Everything I did was in RegiStax.
This is a really good picture for a C8.
Posted 19 May 2013 - 11:53 PM
Also, I was quite surprised at how well my picture came out. It is an older 1980s version SPC8. I recently collimated it, and that seemed to make a good improvement over previous results.
Posted 20 May 2013 - 12:47 AM
I have a LifeCam Cinema webcam and I checked the software that comes with it and there is no way to adjust the red, green, and blue intensities individually so maybe you have the same problem. Your Saturn is a little pink.
I use the NexImage 5 and it makes everything look green. The software that comes with it allows me to adjust the red, green, and blue separately. I'm learning how much to turn down the green and turn up the blue to get something that looks more natural.
You can adjust the color afterwards but the pictures are only 8 bit so you lose intensity resolution. I think it is better to get it right, or close to right, when recording.
I notice that some people get really good images for their "first" astrophoto. Here is my first Saturn using a C8 back in July 2011. Actually I lied. My first Saturn was a blob with a line through it. The point is that you should be happy with your first Saturn. Or maybe I should just feel bad about my early stuff.
Posted 20 May 2013 - 12:51 AM
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Posted 20 May 2013 - 01:45 AM
Posted 20 May 2013 - 01:53 AM
I remember in college in 1980 they showed us some pictures of Jupiter taken by Voyager. I had never seen Jupiter anywhere near that clear. Now we can take similar pictures from our driveway as a hobby.
Posted 20 May 2013 - 09:33 AM
Posted 20 May 2013 - 10:27 AM
I dropped the 2x barlow into my star diagonal and then put the webcam into the barlow. I thought this was F/20, but maybe I'm wrong (please let me know if I am). I wanted to skip the diagonal and put the webcam into the OTA directly, but I had trouble finding Saturn. I will try that again later.
I used SharpCap to record the video in 1280x720. At first it was recording in 640x480. When I changed it to 1280x720, the image appeared much larger on my screen. I have attached a picture of what it looked like on my screen. I never had to enlarge it for the "final product". I actually shrunk it down in some pics to make it a sharper image. The only cropping occurred when I used PIPP or AS!2, which chops out the background for faster stacking.
I hope this helps. I'm still learning so it is possible I didn't answer your question precisely.
Posted 20 May 2013 - 11:39 AM
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Posted 20 May 2013 - 05:22 PM
Posted 20 May 2013 - 06:09 PM
My personal preference is to have North up and not be a mirror image. If I had a series of pictures of Jupiter with the red spot moving across then the red spot would be in the southern hemisphere and it would be moving left to right. Also the moons and their shadows would be moving left to right when they are going in front of the planet. I want my planets to have their spin axis up (see the right hand rule).
Other people want South to be up because that is how they see it in their telescope. My telescope (an SCT) reverses things left to right causing a mirror image, when I am using a diagonal. I don't like this but it is way better than removing the diagonal and getting down on my knees to look into the eyepiece.
For imaging most people want no mirror image. If you have an image of a crater on the Moon and you're trying to find it on a map of the Moon then it will be way easier if you don't have a mirror image.
You can test your setup by taking a picture of a license plate far away. This will let you know if you need to flip it in software.
I don't use a diagonal mainly because it reduces the amount of light, it is another optical component that can distort the image, and I collimate without a diagonal and a diagonal can be a bit wobbly, screwing up collimation.
If it is not possible, or just really inconvenient, to remove the diagonal then of course you should use it. You can easily flip the resulting image in your final processing.