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WO vs DenkII's

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#26 Eddgie


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Posted 23 May 2013 - 07:31 AM

Well, if you think about it, the C14 is f/11, and the obstruction is the smallest of any of the SCTs by percentage of aperture.

Aperture loss starts at 200mm of back focus.

The C11 uses the same size baffle (though a bit bigger percentage of obstruction) so that makes sense that it would tolerate more back focus.

The EdgeHD 11 though apparently has more restricted baffles too. The C11 used to have better field illumination than the C14, but according to Celestron, they are the same now.

And the EdgeHD 8" is much worse than the old C8.

I have ray traces for the standard Celestron scopes and if you would like to see them, just PM me and I will send you the PDF.

#27 REC


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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:22 AM

So I'm looking at this photo it appears that you have the diagonal screwed right to the back and not needing an OTA? My tube is 2" long. Who's diagonal are you using and is that a small fan in it?

Also, nice set of pairs you have there, which ones do you use most? Can you see the whole FOV with the 32 Brandons?



#28 bcuddihee



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Posted 24 May 2013 - 12:08 PM

This is a William optics 2" dielectric diagonal with the optional 2" sct to ota adapter. It makes for a shortened light path. It screws on tho the back of the ota and onto the diagonal. I have installed a fan in it which extracts air through the baffle tube. I have installed 6 small vents in the fron t of the ota as shown. With the fan on I have active air circulation and extraction from the ota resulting in much quicker cool down times. Yes also shown are my 32 brandons..I use them to keep from having to use my power swith "not shown in the above photo" due to the reduction in aperture issues related to using it. I can see out to the field stops but right before the fierld stops you can see a bit of vignetting. Not a lot but there is some. Hope this helps...the next pic shows the vent holes and the power switch installed. I don't use the reduction mode in the power switch much unless I'm trying to get the entire double cluster in the fov.

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#29 bcuddihee



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Posted 24 May 2013 - 12:09 PM


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#30 Mike B

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 12:29 PM

Holey CATs, Batman- that is now a cool kitty!

#31 SkyGibbon


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Posted 26 May 2013 - 02:25 PM

I have a set of the WO binoviewers. Many of the issues some have stated here are a reason I am looking to upgrade. The eyepiece shifting from the lock screw is a pain. Having to basically redo the diopter adjustment with each eyepiece set change. I basically set focus with left eye, adjust diopter with right, then release locking screws and the image snaps in. The eyepiece holders seem very tight also. Having to do multiple barlow voodoo antics to come to work on certain setups. Saying that, the views are great when it is working and I don't regret my first binoviewer purchase.

It comes to focus with no attachments on both my refractors and my Mak if I put it straight in the focuser, although I do have a nice 2" and a nice 1.25" diagonal if I choose that route. Extremely bright and nice views. To mag it up, I just put in a 4" extender and screw my 1.6x and 2x barlow lens elements straight to the nosepiece of the binoviewer. One or the other, both together. Usually 95x is about all I need though. On my dob though I have to screw 2 filter rings (filters out) between the nosepiece and the ocs to get my 1.6 to focus with the shortest lightpath. 2x works fine screwing it directly into the nosepiece.

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