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Meade LX10 question

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#1 AstroTatDad



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Posted 05 June 2013 - 02:18 AM

Hey guys, so I have a Meade LX10 8" with a bigger finder scope and wedge if remember right it was the Deluxe package. I bought this new back in 1999 I believe. Anyhow it's original still, I haven't used it for a while. It's been packed up since I have my 6SE goto and 8" Dob.

I been thinking of building a AP rig and was going to start with getting a mount just for AP probably a computerized GE mount with goto. Not sure on a OTA yet, but was thinking hey why not defork it mess around with the Meade for a while. My question is are the optics way out dated to be even messing with? I kept it clean, maintained and still seems to be like new to this date.

this is what it looks like, but mine came with a bigger finder in the package.
Posted Image

Let me know what you think.

#2 LoveChina61


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Posted 05 June 2013 - 03:56 AM

The optics are still very good. It most likely has the same EMC optics that my older Classic LX200 uses. Meade later came out with the improved UHTC optics. Now advanced imagers will prefer their ACF scope that has been manufactured especially for astrophotography (coma correction).

The EMC optics were still very good, however, and I have not been disappointed with the photos I have taken through the EMC optics. You might want to use a focal reducer to expand the field of view, cut down on necessary exposure times, and also to reduce coma. The Meade 6.3 reducer will give you good results, and a reducer like the Optec 0.5X NexGen gives great results when used with a SCT scope like your LX10. Taking and applying good Flats will do away with most if not all of the vignetting.

#3 Joad



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Posted 05 June 2013 - 01:36 PM

I had this exact same scope and "deluxe" package. Everything that LoveChina61 says is correct. While the LX10 fork mount probably isn't very good for imaging, the OTO is fine.

#4 AstroTatDad



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Posted 05 June 2013 - 04:24 PM

thanks guys.

#5 jgraham


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Posted 08 June 2013 - 09:22 AM

+1 on the optics. I have a 10" f/6.3 that I am soooooo tempted to de-fork and put on my Atlas for imaging. The only reason that I don't is that I already have some pretty good imaging gear and I love my LX6 as a visual scope. Still, I went ahead and ordered an ADM dovetail just in case. :)

#6 Raginar


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Posted 08 June 2013 - 10:42 AM

I think de-forking it would be great. I just got a 12" LX200 UHTC that was de-forked. Works really well.

#7 Geo.



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Posted 10 June 2013 - 10:06 PM

Yes, no different from the LX200 OTA except for the rear handle [mounting holes are there though]. The LX10 came on line in 1995 and was phased out when the LX90 came along. So the optics should be pretty good. Get the 6.3 or a 5.0 focal reducer for AP or even some fun wide field views.

Yeah, the drive electronics are pretty primitive. I think the way they work is that a charge builds in C1 until it saturates, then the current opens Q1 and a pulse goes to the motor, C1 discharges and the cycle starts again. As the values of resistors and capacitors are never precise and stable the RA drive will not be that accurate, but it is cheap. As I recall the RA drive from the original ETX90 had more components.

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#8 AurigaDoug



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Posted 08 August 2013 - 07:32 PM


Thanks for the schematic. I could of never found it on my own. Now I can build the hand controller, which I could never find also. I found my LX10 at a pawn shop, paid $90 only. They never figured out how to focus it. I did have Spectrum Coating re-do the 2ndary mirror due to corrosion. I can say that it preforms well optically. Takes a 2" eyepiece nicely. The primary mirror I wanted to have recoated also, but I found that the tube is glued together and it's not coming out. So it's still in superb condition. Thinking of using an old "RC" servo to motorize the declination.


#9 jeff.d69


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Posted 20 August 2013 - 07:50 AM

Hi guys,
I've also a LX10 made in 1996
I'm using the Meade Serie 4000 FF/FR 0.63 and the Meade OAG with an EOS 600D. Using this configuration focal plane is 105mm far away from the FF/FR (as I found on the net as suggested distance) but if look at my pictures you can see a strong coma at the four corners.
Which distance should I have to get better results? I don't pretend to have a perfect scope ;) ... should be enough not cropping every picture because of the awful corners :D

Thanks, Jeff

#10 jeff.d69


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Posted 29 August 2013 - 04:31 AM

None using this scope?


#11 Gvs


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Posted 11 September 2013 - 08:51 PM

I use this scope with no focal reducer. Though most stills are <30 sec. And its T2i Rebel. I do get good shots.

Mainly use it for show and tell.

Debating about acquiring a ieq45 with a acf10 ota for AP or a 12" LX600. Wish I could test drive one.

#12 Live_Steam_Mad



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Posted 12 September 2013 - 07:56 PM

The primary mirror I wanted to have recoated also, but I found that the tube is glued together and it's not coming out. So it's still in superb condition.

Meade glued on the front ring and rear cell casting of the e.g. LX50 to the Alu. tube with Epoxy so I am told. Certainly I could not get either end off on my LX50 7" Mak.

However all you need to do is remove the corrector plate (there are documented ways to do this - most important is to keep the corrector aligned to the primary by marking the edge of the ring with tape - to match a mark on the corrector). This reveals 2 gaps that you can then pull the mirror out through (don't scratch the front of the mirror on them) after you remove the baffle tube's primary mirror retainer ring (remember to REPLACE it after or else the primary might well crash into the secondary if the OTA is tipped up at the rear end before you get the focusser back on). Just did all this on my 7" Meade Maksutov when I removed the disc weight in the back of it ;-





However, if you can get a good sharpness Airy Disc at 500x after a dead on collimation like my friend Jon H's LX90 8" ACF does, then don't take the chance touching the primary until it's really essential.


Alistair G.

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