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Post a picture of your COOLED DSLR

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#26 moxican

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 08:42 PM

And here is the controller for it. They are connected true a serial port, which conducts the power to the peltier, the fan, and the two sensors for hot and cold finger. Works like a charm

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#27 moxican

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 09:13 PM

And here are some dark frames with a difference of 25C

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#28 moxican

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 09:14 PM

Without the TEC

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#29 Puck Ja

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 09:38 PM

And here are some dark frames with a difference of 25C

What is your sensor temperature? Just curious. Thanks!

#30 Jon Rista

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 09:49 PM

And here is the controller for it. They are connected true a serial port, which conducts the power to the peltier, the fan, and the two sensors for hot and cold finger. Works like a charm


I'd LOVE to know more about the innards of that box! :D I'm in the process of building my first cold box. It's just been a fun project, but I'm learning a lot, and I'm having more ambitious ideas. I'm ok with electronics, not great...would love to learn how to control the peltier with a dial control and read out the temperatures, though.

#31 moxican

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:54 AM

The sensor temps were -15C and 10C maybe 15C I am not exactly sure. I was cranking the peltier at full, although it was not its max power, it was the max that the gauge of the wire could took. It is good enough though.
The inside of the box is only electronics. The camera is not inside, it is connected to the box by that serial connector that you see on top of it on the picture. I ordered a PWM controller from eBay for $1.99 and a couple of cheap temp sensors with probes also form eBay for $0.99 each. Cut the wires for the temp probes after installing the probes on the appropriate finger (both hot and cold), soldered the wires to corresponding connector in teh serial port, the rest just simply went inside the box, also wires soldered to the appropriate input. Put a AAA battery on it to power the temp sensors display (12V was too much), and done.

#32 setiv2

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 02:06 PM

Mine is almost complete. It won't be that fancy. Just something to bolt to the camera that will fit tight against the back and bottom. Here is an IR shot of it being tested without camera. Next will be to attach the camera and see how cold it can get.

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#33 AstroScience

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 03:45 PM

I have made 35 images of the process when building my Cooler Box, but right now I have only 4 images uploaded and no description. Although in matter of days it would be finished. Couple of things I want to mention, my box will cool 18°C below ambient in matter of an hour. I use 12703 Peltier which is 12V 3A 36W unit. The first built were with 60W unit (12705) and I had much worse results, not to mention a power draw from a battery of 5A. I have found that smaller peltier for that size of the box is more efficient.
I had removed the back plate of the camera with its LCD screen, which tremendously helped cooling and now after exposing for 15 minutes the exif temps reported only 4°C higher than reported inside of the box. For exeample, if inside the box reported temps are 4°C, then after 15 minutes exposure the exif temps would be only 8°C.

You can see images here: http://www.myastrosc...cooler-box/cvzf

#34 Jon Rista

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 03:51 PM

The sensor temps were -15C and 10C maybe 15C I am not exactly sure. I was cranking the peltier at full, although it was not its max power, it was the max that the gauge of the wire could took. It is good enough though.
The inside of the box is only electronics. The camera is not inside, it is connected to the box by that serial connector that you see on top of it on the picture. I ordered a PWM controller from eBay for $1.99 and a couple of cheap temp sensors with probes also form eBay for $0.99 each. Cut the wires for the temp probes after installing the probes on the appropriate finger (both hot and cold), soldered the wires to corresponding connector in teh serial port, the rest just simply went inside the box, also wires soldered to the appropriate input. Put a AAA battery on it to power the temp sensors display (12V was too much), and done.


Hmm, interesting. I'd looked into a PWM controller and how to use one with a peltier. I found a number of threads warning against it, claiming the kind of power the PWM provides isn't necessarily good for a peltier. How is your experience? No problems?

#35 moxican

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 05:16 PM

I've got no problem with it whatsoever. I have used it for about 20-30 times including the tests as well. Also about half of these times it was running for at least five hours. I usually take my lights and flats at the site, and then take the darks the very next day comfortably at home at the same temp. But now that you've mentioned it, I will pay careful attention to it. If it dies, I'll replace the peltier and the PWM controller too. It is a little a bit of a hassle, but as long as I don't have to open up the camera again, it's doable. Thanks for the heads up though.

#36 keithlt

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 07:49 PM

here is a different take on dslr cooling. got good results last week .ambient temp was 101f (evening in the desert )and my camera stabilized around 48 f. i kept the camera in the refrigerator the day before in a zip lock bag with self indicating anti-humidity packs. 3.5hrs of imaging and the freezer packs were still frozen solid. i will still add 2 more packs next time.

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#37 keithlt

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 07:56 PM

on more picture ,

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