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CG-5GT prepurchase

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#26 RTLR 12

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:20 PM

I think using 120 volt to power a 12 volt system is a risk. I've never had one of my SLA AGM batteries surge. The small amount of battery reserve needed to power a mount for an update is so small that if you use a battery that doesn't have enough voltage capacity to complete the job, I consider it a self inflicted operator error.

Stan



#27 FlyBD5

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:25 PM

I think using 120 volt to power a 12 volt system is a risk. I've never had one of my SLA AGM batteries surge. The small amount of battery reserve needed to power a mount for an update is so small that if you use a battery that doesn't have enough voltage capacity to complete the job, I consider it a self inflicted operator error.

Stan


Pardon me, but this is where your common sense and mine diverge. Converting 120vac to 12vdc is hardly a black art, and has been done quite successfully since the last millennium. As to voltages and batteries, do you always check the voltage on every one of your batteries before using them? Including all six that a NexStar SE mount requires to operate without a wall wart?

Sorry, but no, this is not good advice, IMO.

#28 rmollise

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:45 PM


Pardon me, but this is where your common sense and mine diverge. Converting 120vac to 12vdc is hardly a black art, and has been done quite successfully since the last millennium. As to voltages and batteries, do you always check the voltage on every one of your batteries before using them? Including all six that a NexStar SE mount requires to operate without a wall wart?

Sorry, but no, this is not good advice, IMO.


Well, yes and no. AC supplies are very reliable. They don't all produce DC of the same quality, but they are pretty reliable. What might not be reliable is the power in your neighborhood on a summer day.

I would NOT recommend powering your scope off internal batteries for anything. It's a waste of money and not overly reliable.

Most people who refer to batteries are powering their scopes with 12vdc jump start battery packs or deep cycle marine batteries, which if they are taken care of are probably the best way to power the scope during a firmware update.

You're not slewing or anything, so you don't need much current. A power loss would be the problem and is more likely with AC or your internal batteries than with a halfway decently maintained jumpstarter or marine bat'try. ;)

#29 FlyBD5

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:49 PM



Pardon me, but this is where your common sense and mine diverge. Converting 120vac to 12vdc is hardly a black art, and has been done quite successfully since the last millennium. As to voltages and batteries, do you always check the voltage on every one of your batteries before using them? Including all six that a NexStar SE mount requires to operate without a wall wart?

Sorry, but no, this is not good advice, IMO.


Well, yes and no. AC supplies are very reliable. They don't all produce DC of the same quality, but they are pretty reliable. What might not be reliable is the power in your neighborhood on a summer day.

I would NOT recommend powering your scope off internal batteries for anything. It's a waste of money and not overly reliable.

Most people who refer to batteries are powering their scopes with 12vdc jump start battery packs or deep cycle marine batteries, which if they are taken care of are probably the best way to power the scope during a firmware update.

You're not slewing or anything, so you don't need much current. A power loss would be the problem and is more likely with AC or your internal batteries than with a halfway decently maintained jumpstarter or marine bat'try. ;)


All of which points to exactly what I said. The safest way to do so is to power with both during a firmware update. Anyway, this thread is diverging and I've made my point clear. Off to other pastures. :)

#30 RTLR 12

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:56 PM

Here is some good advise...

I don't use 8 AA batteries to power y mounts, but yes, I do check the voltage of all of my batteries before I use them. Would you drive for hundreds of miles to the field just to find out that you have a dead battery. I check my batteries if I traveling hundreds of miles or just going to the back yard. Anyone that doesn't is just plain foolish.

Now you can take your football and go home.

Stan

#31 rdandrea

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 07:46 PM

Uncle Rod, as usual, has given the most level-headed advice in this thread. Listen to what he says.

#32 frito

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:28 PM

Uncle Rod, as usual, has given the most level-headed advice in this thread. Listen to what he says.


agreed.

I will add to his advise that on the CG-5 specifically make sure you put the power cord in as far as it will go and give it a good wiggle to make sure you are not currently suffering from the bad connection jack issue that often crops up on these mounts. within weeks of getting mine i started to have the power go off on it out of nowhere esp when using the 12V cable, my 120V celestron adapter worked fine even when the 12V was being intermittant (yes its the correct 12V cable, both are original celestron power adapters)

#33 frito

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:30 PM

oh and make sure what ever computer you are using is not set to go to sleep in 10 min or something, mine was when i did my update. HCupdate was crashed after i woke up the computer, fortunately the mount was fine and all i had to do was start over from the top again, the process does take about 15 min for the HC and MC respectively

#34 munchmeister

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 10:40 PM

Here you go...

http://www.celestron...se&_a=viewar...,255

Thank you!

#35 rmollise

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 07:16 AM


All of which points to exactly what I said. The safest way to do so is to power with both during a firmware update. Anyway, this thread is diverging and I've made my point clear. Off to other pastures. :)


Well, have fun wherever you are. :wavey:

However, there is no need to power a scope with both AC and battery during a firmware update. A fully charged battery is the safest way, and what I've been doing for over a decade. :cool:






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