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wedge for a 8se

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#1 Mr Greybush

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:53 PM

I've searched and searched again I searched and found no answer of the dimensions of making a homemade wedge for the 8se. I have the fear of making it to small and it falling off hitting the ground and crying for a year because it broke can someone please give me some kind of size both pieces need to be :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

#2 Arctic_Eddie

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 06:31 PM

I would try something several inches wider than the max diameter of the tripod top plate, or about 12". Make the two pieces square, 12"x12", and use a stainless steel piano hinge running the full length of the joined edges. You could also buy a 4' piece of 1"x12" oak at Home Depot. This will give you pieces that are 11-1/2" square, which is close enough. Use two pieces of all-thread rod at the two back corners for the elevation adjustment.

I'm surprised that there is not a YouTube video showing how to make one.

#3 ben2112

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 06:35 PM

Ask and you shall receive.. :grin:

Youtube Wedge

I just found it by doing a search for How to make a wedge 8SE.

#4 AstroTatDad

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:10 PM

Hehe Cool Ben, I came across Baltier2705 channel before buying my 6SE. It don't seem hard at all to make, just need the tools.

#5 ben2112

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:32 PM

When I saw the post, I just did a quick search and found it on youtube. I was watching it when Eddie posted a reply. It looks pretty easy to make. I have a buddy who has a wood working stuff as his house. When it gets cooler in the fall, I am going to ask him if can help me make it. I can do it here at the house, but I want it to look nice.. :lol:

#6 Mr Greybush

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:08 PM

There are plenty of how to's on youtube but no plans is what I'm asking for I found dozens of plans for a chair like whats the length and with of the back rest what size is the seat ect thats what I'm asking :)

#7 WarmWeatherGuy

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:17 PM

This might be helpful?

Heck with it, I'm making my own EQ wedge for 6SE
http://www.cloudynig...5724148/page...

#8 ben2112

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 09:51 PM

I forgot about that CN post. I remember reading a while back, but I wasn't sure about the concept. But now I understand.

#9 Mr Greybush

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 12:43 AM

STEVE!!!! :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :thanx: :waytogo:

#10 Bob Griffiths

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 12:53 PM

Just save your MONEY as well as your Time....

no way to balance any single armed mount and get anything but very short exposures in all parts of the sky...

Sorry but I said the same thing on the other forum to your question...

Bob G

#11 Mr Greybush

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 01:05 PM

Well Bob I scrapped the idea. I think I'll shy away from any thoughts of AP and just stick with observing. Yes I'd like to take a couple of pictures who wouldn't but for good stuff I'll leave it up to Hubble

#12 WarmWeatherGuy

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 01:11 PM

I think I'll shy away from any thoughts of AP and just stick with observing. Yes I'd like to take a couple of pictures who wouldn't but for good stuff I'll leave it up to Hubble


Not so fast! Don't forget about planetary imaging. I have been having lots of fun with my NexImage 5 camera.

https://www.astronom...r-system-ima...

It has really small pixels so you won't need any Barlow. Your telescope can take awesome pictures of the Moon, Jupiter, Saturn, and Mars when it comes around next year. To see what is possible check out the

Solar System Imaging & Processing Forum
http://www.cloudynig...0/Board/Imaging

When you're over there you will notice that the best images are taken with a more expensive camera.

http://www.zwoptical...SI120/index.asp

So you have two very nice cameras to choose from.

#13 cn register 5

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 01:36 PM

It is possible to take APs using an AltAz mount, you just need to be a bit crafty and choose your battles.

First, get the focal length down. Use a focal reducer.

Next, take images of objects to the East or West, and not too high. This will minimise the field rotation.

Keep the exposure length down. 20 to 30 seconds maximum.

Finally chose bright objects. M57, M27, M13, M31. Things like that.

Take lots of frames. 100 to 200, more if you can. Use Deep Sky Stacker, it should be able to register and compensate for field rotation between frames.

You are unlikely to get an APOD quality image but you should be able to get something and it will be yours.

Chris

#14 Atl

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 02:43 PM

Well Bob I scrapped the idea. I think I'll shy away from any thoughts of AP and just stick with observing. Yes I'd like to take a couple of pictures who wouldn't but for good stuff I'll leave it up to Hubble


Video Astronomy only requires a computer or monitor and a security camera that costs anywhere from $75 to $150 at the low end. It is a fine balance between observing and imaging. It lets you observe in real time way more detail than the eyepiece will show. The ALT-AZ mount is no barrier to this activity either...and you can get screen grabs and video. This is good for deep sky and planetary. It will also give as good or better planetary results than the Orion and Celestron planetary video cameras.
Example: One frame of video of M57. This was the live view on my monitor with a $100 security camera and a 6SE. I never saw the center star with my old 12.5" dob.

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#15 WarmWeatherGuy

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 04:40 PM

Here is what I have done with my NexStar 5SE using the NexImage 5 camera.

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#16 nodalpoint

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 08:05 PM

Great shots of Jupiter and Saturn, there!

#17 Pharquart

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 08:41 AM

Wow! I didn't realize the NexImage could rearrange the solar system to put those planets next to each other in the same field of view!

Brian

#18 ben2112

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 01:32 PM

Here is my shot of Saturn. Took it with the Neximage 5 and my 8SE. I can't wait for Jupiter to come back up in the sky so I can start capturing..

Posted Image

#19 jeffpkamp

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Posted 30 June 2013 - 05:58 PM

don't be so quick to dismiss the SE as an AP platform. I've built myself a wedge for my 6se mount, and using the orion SSAG/mini autoguider I have had excellent results. Without the autoguider, shots over 30-40 seconds are pretty much out of the question.

With the autoguider, I've had single shots over 10 minutes without major problems, and 5-6 min subs are easily doable.

My wedge cost me less than $10 to build and with some friends with power tools and technical know how, it can be made in about 30 minutes. I can't imagine the 8se is a whole lot worse than the 6se. Belowe is a shot of the trifid I took recently with my 6se on my home made wedge.

Posted Image

#20 Amith

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 02:23 AM

Hi Jeff,

You have certainly given me hope for the wedge and my 6SE. The only thing I would need now is the Autoguider and autoguider scope.

I am in the process of making my wedge. Got the wood this weekend but I am having trouble finding the correct bolts for the mount and scope. Everywhere I took it, I was told that the thread is too coarse and nothing would fit. I am looking for both the bolts that mount the wedge onto the tripod and the bolts that mount the scope to the wedge.

I would greatly appreciate it if you could tell me the size of the bolts I need and thread types. (I am using a 25mm thick meranti wood)

Thank you for any help and sorry for hijacking your thread.

Clear Skies.

Amith.

#21 Pharquart

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Posted 01 July 2013 - 07:57 PM

I would greatly appreciate it if you could tell me the size of the bolts I need and thread types. (I am using a 25mm thick meranti wood)

Sounds like you're in a metric part of the world. The bolts are most likely measured in inches.

The bolts that go from the wedge down into the tripod should be 5/16"-18 UNC. (That's 5/16" diameter, 18 threads per inch, a very standard size in the United States.) The bolts that go into the base of the scope should be 3/8"-16. Be very careful that the bolts going into the scope base are not too long. The gear that moves the scope in azimuth passes over the bolt holes. If your bolt is too long, it will hit the gear and cause it to stop (best case) or damage the gear (worst case). You want the bolts just deep enough to engage the threads fully. I actually bought longer bolts and used an angle grinder to cut them cleanly to an exact length I calculated by measuring. I rotated the mount in azimuth while looking into one of the bolt holes until I saw the gear, then measured the depth from the base, subtracted about 1/8" and added the thickness of my wood. I then very gingerly tested to make sure the gear cleared the end of the bolt when it was all together.

Brian

#22 Amith

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Posted 02 July 2013 - 02:40 AM

Hi Brian,

Thank you for that information. I was not aware that it would intrude on further toward the gearing. I am now going to be much more cautious when it comes to this.

I am thinking that I should measure the bolts that fit onto the mount base against the original one and add on the 25mm to that.

Thank you once again.

Clear skies.

Amith.






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