Moonlite truss connectors measures
Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:28 AM
Can anyone tell me precisely how deep are the holes where enter the spheres, in the Moonlite truss connectos system?.
Posted 16 August 2013 - 08:09 AM
One last question. What is the distance between the upper edge of the rectangular pieces, and the center of the holes where the screws to locks the spheres are inserted?.
Posted 16 August 2013 - 08:57 AM
save target as - the attached txt file and rename this *.txt file as a *.dwg and you can have a 3d autocad file.
Posted 16 August 2013 - 11:05 AM
Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:27 PM
Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:29 PM
I'll have to fix the sketchup, at least I'll know its correct then.
i like my connectors better anyway. at least for my small scopes.
Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:37 PM
By the way, what is the thread pitch of the screw?
1/4-20 for the knob
Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:59 PM
I get 0.1825" from the front surface of the blocks to the hole centers. This is for the blocks used with 1" truss poles.
No holes center, but to the center of the hole where you insert the screws that push the spheres
Posted 16 August 2013 - 02:06 PM
This is for the blocks used with 1" truss poles.
do you thur bolt and nut yours or do you tap your holes?
Posted 17 August 2013 - 03:26 AM
The first picture shows the measure that I need. I understand that is 5,34 mm, isn't it?.
Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:00 PM
--light weight--especially important on the UTA end.
--keeps truss bending forces minimal because support points are centered in the tubes. Sag in the UTA when the scope points low will likely be vertical rather than at an angle.
--easy to move if needed. It is easy to experiment with UTA rotation for comfortable eyepiece position.
--easy to disassemble. I do recommend color-coding or numbering the poles so they are always re-used in the same positions. This will make re-collimation easier.
--easy to attach to the poles by simply drilling holes. I recommend using sheet-metal screws rather than rivets.
Minuses of Moonlite connectors:
--The ends of the knob bolts (which are typical bolt ends) chip the plastic balls. Metal replacement balls not easily found in the standard Moonlight diameter.
McMaster-Carr sells replacement plastic ball ends in the standard Moonlite diameter.
--The pressure of the bolt screw isn't directly centered on the ball, but slightly "under it" (if the ball is at the top). This imparts a sideways pressure on the knob bolt, which can cause failure of the delrin block's threads. This can be mitigated by making the ends of the bolts conical or rounded, but not eliminated.
--From the mechanical standpoint, they cannot produce as rigid a structure as possible because the trusses won't have the end points of their "effective" lengths centered at the block, so twist is possible--sag when the scope points low, and also torsional rotation of the UTA when the scope points low. If you want to see it, when the UTA is resting on the poles and all the pole-binding knobs are loose, a substantial amount of torsional motion is possible in the UTA. In practice, when everything is tight, the torsional rotation is minimal, but it does point out that if you use Moonlite pole connectors it might be wise to step up the pole diameter and/or widen the stance of the pole attachment points.
--If the scope is left assembled, continuous pressure of the knob bolts will cause creep in the delrin material, causing the bolts to loosen. If the scope is left assembled, re-check the tightness of the knobs before each collimation.
After the above, you might think I don't like them. In fact, they are used on my scope and I would re-use them again. Nothing in the scope world is perfect, and I just wanted to mention the bad with the good. I'd use them again, though.