Any ATIK 383-L Mono CCD Users Out There?
Posted 14 November 2013 - 12:03 AM
So my question is, Who has an ATIK 383L Monochrome CCD camera and how do they like it?
I still get nice results with my ATIK 3l4e but would like to get a wider f.o.v. Thanks for reading.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 12:24 AM
Posted 14 November 2013 - 01:31 AM
I see Optcorp lists the ATIK 383L's CCD chip as made by Truesense and not Kodak, but Trusense still calls it the KAF-8300 chip. Wonder if the quality is better, worse, or the same as the original Kodak chip?
Thanks again Keith and maybe I'll get some further info from some more folks.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 04:38 AM
I recently bought the 383L+ and it has been fine so far, and I haven't needed to contact Atik. I decided on an 8300 ccd for the size, vs. the smaller sony ccds, and for me it was a transition from shutterless sx ccd's to this one. I mainly went with Atik because I also decided on the 9-position filter wheel for 1.25" filters. So first I decided on 8300, then filter wheel, and that made me choose the atik ccd.
I miss having very fast shutterless downloads with a smaller sony interline ccd, but this is the way it works.
The only thing to be aware of is the particular adapters that you need on either side. The docs are unclear about it and you need the right ones.
The shutter is fast and inaudible.
The download time is around 8s I think. The cooling is fast but I don't run it very cool - -10-20C. The read noise is around 9-10e, which I don't think is unusual for 8300 systems.
I use it with Maxim on an Edge8.
I don't have many images posted because I don't get much chance to image. On CN I recently posted an ISON image with it, and earlier I posted an Ha image of a region near the Pelican nebula.
One advantage other ccd's would have is the ability to use dslr lenses in conjunction with a filter wheel. This requires specially designed systems to work with the limited backfocus. I can use my canon lense with the Atik and I can use individual filters one at a time, but I can't use a filter wheel.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 08:44 AM
Posted 14 November 2013 - 12:12 PM
One minor criticism is that it doesn't perform well when binned 2x2 or higher. Stars can develop asymmetry or even a tiny horizontal bloom on one side. Several CN members thought my telescope was out of collimation when they saw my 2x2 binned images, but the collimation is spot-on. Without touching the collimation, the stars are perfectly symmetrical when binned 1x1. So if the pixel size is too small for your liking, don't plan on binning.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 02:48 PM
Posted 14 November 2013 - 05:05 PM
Posted 14 November 2013 - 05:43 PM
It's important that FW (filters) should be as close to the camera as possible. Atik FW threads directly to camera...
All my images are done with this camera.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 07:04 PM
Here are a couple of recent images of mine taken with C11 Edge and the 383L+. The NGC 7479 was binned 2x2 and the M31 was binned 1x1. Both were 7 to 8 hrs. of total integration time with the same mount under excellent conditions. Click the thumbnails to see the full images on Astrobin, and you'll see the slight lack of roundness of the stars on the 7479 photo. It gets worse if the image is stretched more aggressively, but I processed this image so it would be less obvious. The stars in the M31 image are soooooo much nicer that I think I will never do another 2x2 binned image.
Finally, here's an image taken with my C8 (non-HD), which has grossly inferior optics. There is some distortion at the corners due to imperfect optics and lack of a flat field. If your optics aren't perfect right to the edge, the large format sensor will expose it in a hurry. The bright stars at the center of the nebula are fused together due to blooming, and the bright star at upper left has a pretty obvious bloom too. This image was acquired with 2x binning.
Posted 14 November 2013 - 07:16 PM
Very interesting and helpful replies. Does anybody have images, preferably LRGB or RGB?
The luminance for the image I have posted now in this CCD forum on LBN552 was taken with my 383L (color came from a DSLR).
Posted 14 November 2013 - 08:10 PM
Posted 18 January 2014 - 09:09 PM
Posted 18 January 2014 - 09:18 PM
Seriously, enjoy the new camera.
Posted 19 January 2014 - 10:25 PM
If the voltage is stabilized, this camera is a keeper.
Posted 20 January 2014 - 07:37 AM
This camera is also sensitive to moisture and icing on the chip when using the cooler. Regular recycling the desiccant tablets may help, although of that I'm still not certain.
Now having said all that, I do like the camera and use it extensively.
Posted 20 January 2014 - 02:20 PM
I will be cooling down my camera over a 10 to 15 minute period before imaging and when finished, warm it back up to ambient temperature over the same time. The only thing I have problems with is the weather!