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Makin' long dovetail saddles the quick & dirty way

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#51 nosmoke

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 02:53 PM

When the shipyard was building ships with an aluminum deck house I saw the mechanics cutting up to 2"
AL plate using Skil saws. They put the blades in backwards
and cut the AL almost like they were cutting wood.

Regards Norm


Norm, could you please elaborate a bit on how a backwards blade helps the cutting process.

#52 StarStuff1

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 09:32 PM

When I was working with a major retailer service dept a tech told me the same thing. I don't remember his explanation...only that I didn't want to try it out.

#53 nosmoke

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Posted 01 January 2014 - 09:52 PM

I ask because, lacking metal working tools (beyond a drill press and abrasive chop saw), I would like to try it. I have cut small Al angles & tubing on my radial arm but it's touchy, sounds bad and I'm guessing dulls the carbide fairly quickly(?). A case in point would be cutting the triangles and other parts for a mirror cell.

#54 piaras

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 12:52 PM

On page 1 there is an explanation of what to look for when buying blades for non ferrous use. I use my tablesaw with a blade rated for non ferrous metals. It is not reversed, just used in the regular way, same as when cutting wood.
Pierre

#55 don clement

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 01:53 PM

I use a 10" non-ferrous carbide blade on my chop saw. http://www.wholesale...-non-ferrous...
I haven't used the non-ferrous blade on my table saw though as I have a mill with a method of securely clamping aluminum down to the mill table or Vise. Also use soluble flood coolant with the mill. To me it would be pretty dicey cutting aluminum on a table saw. I am glad I have a mill and don't have to risk my life cutting aluminum on a table saw.

Don

#56 nosmoke

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 04:12 PM

Don, what does the web site mean by "thin stock"? Could you cut 1/4" AL for instance? Also wondering approx. how many feet of 1/4" cut one could get from the blade b/f it dulls?

Thanks...

#57 Al8236

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Posted 02 January 2014 - 07:52 PM

I have used a triple chip blade like the one that Don linked to and a power feed on the tablesaw to cut 1 1/4" AL for a total of about 6' total and it still cuts well.
I would not recomend doing this without a powerfeed and good hold downs however!

#58 Rustynuts

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 07:35 PM

As soon as it warms up, I plan to cut some 2 inch aluminum plate.
I will be using my table saw with sled and holddown clamps, Then will finish on my mill, The right blade with the Table saw is much faster than other methods for this thick Aluminum.
Jon

#59 don clement

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Posted 06 January 2014 - 08:50 PM

Don, what does the web site mean by "thin stock"? Could you cut 1/4" AL for instance? Also wondering approx. how many feet of 1/4" cut one could get from the blade b/f it dulls? Thanks...



The chop saw with 10" carbide non-ferrous blade easily cut through 3" solid rounds. The Freud 10" carbide non-ferrous blade lasts a long time before needing re-sharpening. I use a solid wax stick for lubrication. The real problem is holding the aluminum and I rigged my own vise. Even so cutting aluminum with the chopsaw is loud and pretty scary.

Nowdays I use a 7 x 12 bandsaw with Lennox 4-6 tpi bimetal blade using flood coolant for cutting up to 7" aluminum rounds held in the built-in vise. (note the Labjack )I also cut 1/2" aluminum plate freehand in the vertical mode and saw table mounted. In the vertical mode when freehand bandsawing I use a Vortec Model 610 cold air gun for cooling. http://www.vortec.co...d-air-guns.aspx 1/2" aluminum plate cuts just like wood in the vertical mode and has no kickback as it would with a table saw. I value my limbs and life too much to cut aluminum plate on a table saw when the bandsaw with 4-6 tpi blade cuts safely and quick. YMMV

Don

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