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AHHH! Broke my CGEM

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#1 slookabill

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 07:56 PM

Well, just as I finished setting up tonight and starting the 2 star polar alignment on my CGEM, I tripped over the AC power cord, yanking it out.

After inspection, it appears the ring that screws on has both pulled off, and part of it broke inside the power socket, and the rod in the middle is now bent.

Does anyone have any advice on how to get it fixed? I might be able to fix it with glue and some needle nose pliers, but I'm not sure if a) I should, and B) how to do it completely correctly. (I bought it at the end of November)

#2 Skunky

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 08:00 PM

Call celestron and see if they will fix it? Try to fiddle with it?

That part is not cheap.. the power connector is part of the CGEM MC Board

http://www.celestron...e-cgem-serie...

#3 payner

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 08:01 PM

Scott: Without seeing and assessing it I can't offer a fix. Obviously if you can set the rod straight and rewire then you should be good to go (I know, you realize that). Anyway, I'm sorry the accident happened and hope you get it in good order soon. Someone will chime-in with real help.

Best,
Randy

#4 slookabill

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 08:13 PM

Here's a few of the pictures

Attached Files



#5 Falcon-

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 08:48 PM

Here's a few of the pictures


Ouch. That does look like the part needs replacing rather then just trying to straiten the inner pin. That outer ring that broke off is the negative contact while the inner pin is positive, you do need both.

How are you with soldering? Looking at the picture of the board the power connector is attached to it appears to be a relatively simple re-solder job. That power connector is a relatively standard part you can order from a local electronics store or from a supplier like digikey. Cost would be something in the general area of of $5 for the part.

There is a chance that the board behind suffered damage as well, but my guess would be that this is not the case (would have to open and inspect to be sure).

If you (or someone you know) is not up a de-solder of the old part and solder on of the replacement then you are going to have to replace the whole MC board I think.

#6 dragonslayer1

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 09:25 PM

If your by a college or high school electronics class you may check with them or a tv store on fixing it, ie replacing broken part, Kasey

#7 RTLR 12

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 09:39 PM

I think before I spent $342 on a co-axle socket I would take the MC board to an electronics shop (TV, Audio, RC, etc.) and have someone replace the socket. Its a fairly standard socket and this time don't get the screw-on kind. I always though it was a bad idea. I don't use them just for that reason.

Stan

#8 Starhawk

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 10:38 PM

It's certainly a standard socket if you don't get it with threads. It seems there are worse things than having it come unplugged.

-Rich

#9 slookabill

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 10:45 PM

Well it broke the threads for the socket. I have put in an e-mail to Celestron, to see what they might have to say. I really am hoping I don't have to replace the whole board, as I was really hoping to order my first scope here shortly. I'll start looking around and seeing if any electronics shops can hopefully replace the socket... I'm really hoping there's no damage to the actual board though....

#10 Skunky

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 01:04 AM

There is ways to rig something up. U could also find a dead cgem mount head cheaper than buying that part.

#11 orlyandico

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 02:27 AM

You don't need to buy a new board, just have the socket replaced. And where did the $342 figure come from?

You just need to buy something like this..

http://www.newark.co...jack/dp/96C7917

also I have never seen a dead CGEM mount. It is sufficiently beefy that it's worth repairing (unless the entire casting cracked).

#12 RTLR 12

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 03:13 AM

You don't get to see this where you are...

http://www.celestron...e-cgem-serie...

Stan

#13 orlyandico

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 05:12 AM

That's probably the board... not just the coaxial connector. Which you can buy for $1.69 from the link I posted above.

#14 RTLR 12

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 07:47 AM

Well, yes of course that is the board. Did you open the link?That was my point! Not to spend $342 to replace a $2 connector.

Stan

#15 Skunky

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 09:44 AM

You people find anything to disagree about and argue/squabble over it. :p

#16 EFT

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 10:23 AM

I have replaced several of these that people have broken. A standard socket will not work because it is not long/deep enough so you have to find a longer one which will cost a few bucks more (e.g., $5 instead of $2.50). Once you have the new socket, you need to remove the board from the face plate and desolder the original socket. In order to get the spacing correct for the new socket you then need to attach the new socket to the face plate, and reattach the board to the face plate. Then you can solder the new socket in place. Note that there should be at least one plastic washer between the face plate and the socket when you first take it apart and this washer needs to be in place when you put it together. The desoldering of the broken socket is the worst part of this job because the three pins of the socket are held in with a lot of solder and the large holes must be cleared in order to attach the new socket.

The part that I have used can be found here: Alliedelec.

This of course represents the risk of using a power connector that screws into the socket. It's nice that it does not easily come out, but if you trip on the cord, disaster results. Same problem that they use to have with laptops.

#17 brokenwave

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 11:44 AM

I use a Velcro strap to keep the cord on the tripod leg. Keeps it from getting tripped over, also use a carpet mat to keep all cords under it.

#18 Falcon-

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 12:15 PM

Well, yes of course that is the board. Did you open the link?That was my point! Not to spend $342 to replace a $2 connector.

Stan


It is worth noting that Celestron does not sell parts directly outside of the US and the web site knows this. So for those of us outside of the US such as orlyandico and I that link shows a picture of the board but no price.

Thus the confusion. :)

#19 Geo.

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 12:27 PM

Personally, I'd ditch the OEM socket and replace it with a coiled power cord and a cord restraint at the panel rather than risk ripping up traces on the board. Or you could put a second restraint for the cord a few inches out from the connector. On the whole I think Celestron made a mistake when they stopped unsing Cinch-Jones connectors.

#20 andysea

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 11:55 PM

Hmm there's an opportunity. Someone should come up with a magsafe type connector for a mount, just like my mac laptops.

#21 Deven Matlick

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 02:11 AM

Hmm there's an opportunity. Someone should come up with a magsafe type connector for a mount, just like my mac laptops.


Would be great but, there's a patent! :tonofbricks:

#22 austin.grant

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 03:51 AM

Hmm there's an opportunity. Someone should come up with a magsafe type connector for a mount, just like my mac laptops.


In theory it's nice, but then you have a major headache of the power being easily disconnected. No big deal on a laptop, where you just plug it back in. When a polar aligned mount in the middle of a session is unplugged, somebody is likely to get killed.

I always tie the power cord around a leg and then run to the power connector. Never had a mount unplugged, despite my clumsiest efforts.

#23 dragonslayer1

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 06:28 AM

The way I do it is ty-wrap a power strip to a tripod leg then run power cord into that, then camera, mount, etc run off power strip.. always stays with the mount :jump:
Kasey

#24 nemo129

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 08:08 AM

I do what Kasey aka dragonslayer1 does but I use these to attach the power brick to the upper portion of the a tripod leg. The tool box with the power strip installed is directly under the mount so the cord drops straight down and I take up slack with Velcro ties. I might stub my toe on the extension cord leading away, but that is not going to cause a power outage or other mayhem.

Wrecking gear is a hard way to learn a le$$on, but you never forget after that!
Best of luck to the OP in getting his mount fixed!

#25 EFT

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 12:20 PM

I would have to agree with using nothing stronger than Velcro to attached the power cord or brick to the mount and tripod. We have already seen the problem with using the screw-in power connector and the use of a power connector that can be easily pulled out is a bother. But it would be preferable to have the power connector come out over either tipping the mount over, falling on your face with your hands full of expensive eyepieces, or at best knocking the mount alignment way out. Solidly connecting the cable and power source to the mount and/or tripod runs the risk of an even worse accident. Using Velcro will help to keep the plug in place on the mount and the cables from the mount out of the way while minimizing the chance of substantial damage to you or your mount by allowing the cables to pull away from the mount if they are tripped on or otherwise pulled. As nice as the screw-in plug is, I am hesitant to use it myself or recommend it for just what we have seen here except when the cable can be connected to a battery that is located right below the mount or all cables are covered as one poster suggested so that either way there is no tripping hazard.






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