Nova 22x100 binocs.... any good?
Posted 21 January 2014 - 12:33 PM
Posted 21 January 2014 - 01:27 PM
They first appeared on the market about 10 years ago, apparently from the same Chinese factory as the Oberwerk 22x100 of the same period, but not necessarily with exactly the same coatings as the Obies.
The eye-relief was found by EdZ to be 12mm, and not 18mm as appeared in all the printed specs.
Strathspey in Scotland was one of around half a dozen importers that sold this model at one time, for just below £200 in the UK, but the 22x100 turned out NOT to be one of the greatest models ever produced by Kunming Optical in China.
I have a 20x90 Strathspey, which I believe to be from the same basic "family", and it's nothing to write home about.
If the 22x100 is actually collimated and in good condition, as a rough guide, it is probably worth around $150.
Posted 21 January 2014 - 01:45 PM
This link matches the pictures exactly.
I have 15x70 Oberwerks already, but these may be fun to play with for the $60 as well.
Posted 21 January 2014 - 02:29 PM
Posted 21 January 2014 - 03:33 PM
I'm getting this for $120 Picking it all up tomorrow.
Still have the Nova 10x22 Binoculars, 2" Antares Erfle 32mm, 1.25" Orion Ultrazoom 7mm-21mm-Japan, 1.25" Parks GS 3-Element 2x Barlow-Japan, 1.25" Orion 9mm Plossl, 1.25" Orion Explorer II 13mm, 1.25" Orion Explorer II 6mm, 1.25" Orion Highlight Plossl 7.5mm, 1.25" MA 10mm, 1.25" MA 20mm, 1.25" SR 4mm, 1.25" H 20mm, Orion Filter Case W/ 5Filters-Japan + Moon Filter, Meade Filter Case W/ 5 Filters + Moon Filter, Meade Electronic Eyepiece, "2 to "1.25 eyepiece adapter, RedBeam II LED Asto Flashlight, Eye Patch, and Black Orion Carry Case
They'll be worth a look at least. Yes, I'll need a good tripod for them. I do handhold my Oberwerk 15x70s, but I know I can't do that with the 22x100's
Posted 22 January 2014 - 03:44 PM
Does anyone know if they are easy to collimate or is everything hidden?
Just had a look through them and they don't seem bad, especially not for $20
I bought the eyepieces/case/red flashlight and 2x filter sets for $120.
I turned around and sold the eyepieces minus the red flashlight and 1 filter set for $100!
Also picked up a Bogen 3063 head tripod for $65, but it doesn't have the hex plate. What do I need to get to actually mount these binocs securely on the tripod? Just a hex plate or something else? (I'm new to these big tripods).
Posted 22 January 2014 - 03:59 PM
How do I check collimation/collimate them during the daytime?
What do I need to get to actually mount these binocs securely on the tripod?
Just a hex plate or something else?
You will need to purchase the Bogen/Manfrotto removable floor-plate.
You will more than likely need a 1" binoculars post extension between the binoculars and the tripod head.
http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_binm.htm (Scroll down to BINX)
Check here for collimation under Technical Support.
Posted 22 January 2014 - 05:24 PM
Found the hex plate. Looks like $18 from Amazon which is good.
Will see if I need an extension bolt or not.
And will check out the collimation vids.
We took them out on our patio here at work and saw a hawk soaring far away, but it had great detail in the 22x100s! Even handheld, though we often balanced it on the patio railing!
Posted 22 January 2014 - 05:44 PM
When you get the 22x100 properly mounted, to be sure, try it on the night sky, using a star.
Focus as sharply as possible through both sides, then deliberately DE-FOCUS one side, then with both eyes open, make sure the still-focused (hopefully pin-point star) remains dead centre of the fuzzy blur.
If it doesn't, it's out of alignment, will never provide perfect two-eyed views and will eventually cause eyestrain if used for any length of time.
Posted 22 January 2014 - 07:02 PM
EdZ put up a "collimation" article here on CN: it even shows a binocular similar to the 22x100s and where to look for the prism tilt screws.
Be gentle, it doesn't take a lot to move the images all over the place!
Posted 23 January 2014 - 03:40 AM
Still don't have a tripod head, so was just handholding them, so hard to judge full quality, but initially I'm quite impressed. Orion looked good, as did the star fields. Jupiter had a purple fringe, but that's to be expected
The moon was sharp, crisp and bright. By that time I was tired of holding them so went inside. Have to order the hex plate tomorrow!
Posted 27 January 2014 - 06:18 PM
Posted 28 January 2014 - 10:10 AM
Pointed at Jupiter and I do get a bit of purple chromatic aberration (which was expected). Then I noticed one of the moons (IO) was nearly touching Jupiter. Checked with Sky Safari and yes it was about to transit Jupiter. So I rolled out my 18" dob to have a better look (but that's another post).
The Orion nebula was quite nice and showed a decent amount of structure and was fairly bright.
I also managed to track down M82 and make out the SuperNova there. It was tough to make out at the low magnification but they did work! (Nothing at all like the view in the 18", but that's to be expected!) I didn't spend too much more time with them as I was busy with the dob looking at M82 and the supernova and looking at Jupiter and IO's shadow.
My 6 year old son actually spent a lot of time looking through the binocs while I was on the scope. Of course he ended up looking at things like the traffic on the highway and the road signs and such!
I did check the collimation on a star (thanks for the trick of defocusing one eyepiece). It looks like the circle might be slightly off-center. It didn't look bad though and stars looked good when focused. I might fiddle with it sometime, but for now I'm very pleased with the views and for $100 total, it's a pretty good bargain!
I'll have to get another tripod out some night and set the Nova 22x100's up next to my Oberwerk 15x70's.
Oh and I did find the orgiinal receipt in the storage box from when they were new. They were $260 new in 2005.
The eyecup rubber pieces are a bit loose (one of the retaining clips on each side is snapped) so they sometimes pop off. Not a big deal but a bit annoying. The previous owner put rubber bands around them to help hold the caps on tighter which does help a bit.