I had two mounts that would hold my 6" APO, but I only needed one.
I was kind of surprised by the very low resale of CGE mounts, so I decided to keep the CGE and sell the mount that previously had the 6" APO on (though the other mount was in fact a more solid mount).
Anyway, after it was done, it became very apparent that cosmetically, the CGE was not a very good match for my Emerald Metallic metalflake paint on the 6" APO.
I decided a week ago to remove the anodizing on the CGE so that it would just look less like a Halloween decoration and more like a serious mount (though it looked fine with the C14 on it).
Took about an hour and a half of labor (though the total project took much longer because of waiting around for the anodizing to go away).
It was not necessary to completly dis-assemble the mount.
If you want to do this, here is way you get to the parts.
You will need a variety of Hex wrenches.
Dismount the scope.
Remove the Saddle (two hex head screws)
Remove the cables to the head.
Remove the RA and DEC motor covers.
It will be necessary to loosen the screws holding the position switchs in both the Dec and RA housing.
Remove the five screws that retain the rings.
The Dec ring cover comes off easily, but the RA ring cover has to be manouvered a bit, though you can get it off without taking anything else apart.
First, rotate each ring slightly counterclockwise because the ring goes beneath the position switch in both cases.
On the RA ring, watch that the end does not go behind the circuit board on the RA motor assy.
You will easily manouver the Dec ring off, but the RA ring reguires that you lift it up then tilt it back, then when it is positioned kind of parallel to the RA housing, you can kind of rotate the opening in the C and slip it past the Dec shaft housing. Easy to see once you get there.
The azimuth adjustment ring requires that the top of the Semi-pier be lifted off. If you plan this ahead and have not replaced your battery, you might as well do this while you have the top of the semi pier off.
Anyway, remove the knobs that are used to lock the azimuth adjustment.
At the base of the azimuth ring, you will find a very large hex head screw. I did not have the size wrench, but I was lucky enough to be able to just grab the side wall of this big hex screw with a pair of pliers and was able to get it to come free (in fact, it was not very tight, and I wonder if I was getting some play here, becasue when the CGE, I was always getting some deflection that I could never find).
Anyway, that is all there is to gettin the parts off.
Total time to get everything ready to strip was about 15 minutes.
I stripped using Easy Off. Wear gloves, use proper venting blah blah blah.. I am a good example of stupid but that does not mean you have to be.
It is better to use 5 minute sessions than to try to do it all at once. This allows you to check the progress. I would set a timerf or 5 minutes (you don't want to forget) then rinse everything, and check progress.
The color will come off quickly, but I believe that you don't get the "transition" layer off until you do about three coats.
You can kind of inspect it after each rinse and you will see that it looks like paint being stripped where you still have some layers left. When the metal is mostly dull, you are done, but oven cleaner is a powerful corrosive so you don't want to overdo it.
After your are done, wash everything to get all traces of oven cleaner off.
I used Meguiar's ScratchX as a polish, but that is just because that is what I had.
I did start with an automotive polish but this left black discoloration, so I went to the Meguiar's and that worked fine.
By hand, you will have trouble getting an even, fine finish, so if you know someone with a polishing wheel, if you want a really shiny result, that will be the way to go.
I was going to clear coat my peices, but it is a cold day and my canned alumimum clear coat refused to come out of the can. Instead, I just put a two coats of wax on them. I bet I wind up re-doing that in a year.. Well, I will pick a warm day and clear coat them next time.
Re-assembly is just the reverse of course.
As for the switchs, you HAVE to re-adjust them.
The trick is to try to get the Home Position switch bank on the RA axis to break half way up/down the ramp. Don't let it break to close to the top or bottom because sometimes with a load, you can get flexure and the switch might not break and your mount will stop when slewing past the home position. Easy adjustment, but be careful to test it once you have tightened the screws.