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Interior walls

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#51 tim57064

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 09:13 AM

Wmacky,must be a an overstock sale or something where you are cause it's $14.00 a sheet here also.Nice finished look you have though.

#52 Wmacky

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 11:41 PM

Wmacky,must be a an overstock sale or something where you are cause it's $14.00 a sheet here also.Nice finished look you have though.


Ah Man that's too bad. I didn't realize it was a regional price special. Anyway, anyone near Jacksonville Fl. may want to take a look.

As to the finish, I was going to paint it black. :cool: But. the grain just looked too good to cover. So, I left it natural, and covered it with satin poly. I went waterbased so that it wouldn't yellow over time. The stuff I Used was coating for hardwood floors.

http://www.homedepot...atin-Water-B...

#53 csa/montana

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 09:31 AM

I was going to paint it black. But. the grain just looked too good to cover.



I agree, it would be a shame to lose that beautiful grain! The walls look exceptional! :bow:

#54 Footbag

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 03:23 PM

I was going to paint it black. But. the grain just looked too good to cover.



I agree, it would be a shame to lose that beautiful grain! The walls look exceptional! :bow:


Agree. They look great!

#55 MJB87

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 01:25 PM

I'm revisiting this topic -- hope you don't mind. Just about finished on my observatory and thinking now about what interior paneling to use eventually. Consistent with the above, I don't intend to install any interior surface until next year just to make sure I've got all of the right power and data connections in place. (I've got four USB, one RJ45 and one S-Video from the scope to my workstation but I may need more.)

My carpenters -- who are fantastic and picky -- did NOT recommend installation of normal wall paneling or even MDF panels. They worry that the temperature variations and humidity (we are near water) would cause warping and cracking over time. Their recommendation was either Azek beadboard or outdoor-grade cedar tongue-and--groove planks. Both are pretty expensive and tedious to install, however.

Yes, I have considered leaving the studs bare but have ruled that out as a long-term option. Also, not interested in pegboard for this setting. One strange option I'm considering is Whirlpool Gladiator wall panels. I've got three garages outfitted in this and have lots of cabinets and other attachment accessories. But it is expensive.

I'd be interested in suggestions from those who have installed interior walls and seen them through a couple of years. My criteria in order are

1. Resistance to rot and insect damage / intrusion
2. Nice clean, professional and inviting appearance
3. Ease of installation, especially given lots of outlet boxes, etc.
4. Cost
5. Thickness -- thinner is better.

Thanks

Marty

#56 mich_al

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 01:59 PM

I'll only comment on your connector boxes/lines/etc. Rest assured that new and different types will constantly emerge. I'd leave options open for change. Hopefully, in the future many will be wireless.

#57 RedLionNJ

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 02:48 PM

+1 (or is that +7 by now?) for leaving the bare interior walls around for at least a full cycle of the seasons. Not only is drywall prone to damp if you're in an excessively dewey area during some seasons, but you won't know for a while if you need any extra outlets (winter needs can be different from summer needs).

Besides, some could argue the less insulation, the better - you WANT the scopes to be as close to ambient temperature as possible for the maximum amount of time.

Grant

P.S. Mine is till internally 'unfinished' after nearly 10 years' operation.

#58 Joel

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 03:10 PM

My walls are still naked after 7 years. Been lots of changes over that time as well.

#59 BKBrown

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 03:58 PM

My walls are bare, I plan to prime and paint this fall when the weather is nicer. The thought of critters getting inside of paneling doesn't appeal to me, and I like to use the studs and spaces between the wall studs for storage...

Clear Skies,
Brian

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#60 MJB87

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 07:57 PM

Thanks. To be clear, the reason I DO have insulation is to keep the observatory near the ambient temperature at the time of observation during the summer months. Without the spray foam, the observatory would heat up to 100 degrees or more, requiring an extended cool down period before I could observe. With the spray foam insulation, the structure maxes out at about 85, which is much closer to the ambient temperature at the time I open the roof.

I do require interior paneling and would very much appreciate suggestions regarding options for that.

Thanks to all for the valuable advice.

Marty






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