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Prism & adapters for Binoviewer

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#1 NorthWolf

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 07:30 PM

First light...what to make of this... I ordered the T2 Standard Prism kit that comes with the screw clamping eyepiece holder, (which I may replace by another shorter adapter when binoviewing), the T2 Standard prism and the 1.25" nosepiece which I will save for a refractor someday. I also ordered the 10mm adapter-Visual back. But, when I opened the box, I found other gems. Everything came straight from Baader or the famous telescope.de we site from Germany. I the received a 1.25" nosepiece, a Zeiss Jena 90° diagonal T2 prism (2456095 #1B), and a 1,25" eyepiece holder "ClickLock" - T2 female to 1,25" female (2458100 #8).

 

 

Maybe they ran out of or stopped making the standard t2 prism and screw on clamp ep holder. Perhaps they could not even find the 10mm VB anywhere, which I will order right now if I find it. Nowhere to be seen is the screw clamping eyepiece holder as well, replaced it seems by a clicklock 1.25". 

 

 

 

 

 

So I guess I need to ordewr the 10mm adapter and the adapter that connects the binoviewers to the t2 prism, Jena Zeiss no less.  :flowerred:  :lol: 

 

555.jpg


Edited by NorthWolf, 05 August 2014 - 06:20 AM.


#2 NorthWolf

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 11:35 PM

20140804_213122_resized.jpg



#3 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 02:02 PM

Well that went south quickly....I was binoviewing and the prism almost fell off the stock Celestron visual back. I had a feeling that would happen. If you look closely at the picture on top in my previous post, the thread does not match by maybe 2-3mm. It was actually hanging on the small thread inside of the vb.

 

What now? I already ordered a Baader Ultra-Short (10mm) SCT Female to T2 Male T-Adapter # SCT-T 2958500B will that be sufficient? Will that replace the stock Celestron visual back?

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg



#4 George Blahun Jr

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:27 PM

From your photos and description, I believe you are ordering the correct adapter.   It can be confusing with all the available options, but when you get everything right it will be worth the effort.


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#5 Eddgie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:34 PM

Yes, the 10mm SCT to T2 is the right part.


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#6 Eddgie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:34 PM

I would show a picture, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to add a picture to a post...



#7 JustaBoy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:52 PM

Ed,

 

Just to the left of the Post button you will see a button that says "More Reply Options".

 

That's the ticket!



#8 JustaBoy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:53 PM

Correction: - To the right:-)

 

Now will someone please tell me where the edit button is?

 

Thanks,



#9 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:53 PM

Hey Eddgie, you can go here if you want to post a picture, http://postimage.org/ than select an image to upload from a folder within your computer, than once you click download choose the 2nd link (direct link) from the links it allows you to choose. Get the code and than click on the image button in the menu where you are posting...like here where I am writing now.  

 

There's a lot of ways to do it, it's simpler when you find one.. Thanks for the confirmation guys.


Edited by NorthWolf, 06 August 2014 - 04:56 PM.


#10 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:56 PM

Chuck, the edit button is located to the bottom right corner of your posts.



#11 JustaBoy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 05:04 PM

Thanks Tom!

 

Now where's the Delete button:-)



#12 evan9162

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 06:34 PM

The threads on the back of the VB are not T-threads, they are 1.25" SCT threads - so something like 38mm in diameter.

 

I machined an adapter for my C6 VB to convert the threads to T-threads.  I torqued it down so it should stay in place.


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#13 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 06:58 PM

The delete button seems to have vanished. Also, you can now add pictures easier with the attach file option when using the full editor.



#14 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 07:00 PM

The threads on the back of the VB are not T-threads, they are 1.25" SCT threads - so something like 38mm in diameter.

 

I machined an adapter for my C6 VB to convert the threads to T-threads.  I torqued it down so it should stay in place.

What size are these T-threads? http://www.teleskop-...-Anschluss.html

 

How come you did not just buy a  Baader Ultra-Short (10mm) SCT Female to T2 Male T-Adapter # SCT-T 2958500B instead?

 

By the way would you be able to make me an adapter to attach my binoviews to the T2 Prism? ;)


Edited by NorthWolf, 06 August 2014 - 07:17 PM.


#15 evan9162

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:02 PM

 

The threads on the back of the VB are not T-threads, they are 1.25" SCT threads - so something like 38mm in diameter.

 

I machined an adapter for my C6 VB to convert the threads to T-threads.  I torqued it down so it should stay in place.

What size are these T-threads? http://www.teleskop-...-Anschluss.html

 

How come you did not just buy a  Baader Ultra-Short (10mm) SCT Female to T2 Male T-Adapter # SCT-T 2958500B instead?

 

By the way would you be able to make me an adapter to attach my binoviews to the T2 Prism? ;)

 

 

T-threads are 42mm dia x 0.75 thread pitch.  If it doesn't conform to those specs, then it's not a T-thread.

 

 I don't use T-threads to attach my binoviewer to my scope, I use a 1.25" nosepiece.  I made the adapter so I could attach my camera to the scope.  I already had the aluminium lying around, and my benchtop mini-lathe, so it just took a couple hours machining to make the part.  A better machinist could probably crank one out in about 20 minutes.

 

I'm certainly not the guy to go to for custom machined parts.  I'm only good enough to make stuff for myself.


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#16 Eddgie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:26 PM

Attached File  T2 connection.jpg   181.26KB   0 downloads

 

Here is the SCT to 10mm connector. It has standard SCT thread on the front and T2 male on the back. 

Not that on the 8SE mount, this connector allows clearance at zenith.  I can use my EdgeHD 8" with no dovetail extension or anything...


Edited by Eddgie, 06 August 2014 - 09:29 PM.

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#17 NorthWolf

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 11:01 PM

Ah there it is :grin:  That is the picture that made me understand and convinced me to order the 10mm in the first place!



#18 Eddgie

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 08:37 AM

The 10mm is a great choice for SCTs that are Alt-Az mounted becuase you don't have to rotate the diagonal to different angles.

 

But what a lot of people don't realize is that in many cases it can also be used with the SCT Locking Ring so that GEM mounted scopes can easily rotate the diagonal.

 

The 15mm SCT to T2 has a locking collar like the old style 2" diagonals, but the problem I found was that it was simply difficult to turn the collar enough to get a good lockup, expecially in the winter with gloves on.

 

The locking ring adds about 3mm or so to the light path, but it is so much larger that it makes it much easier to get sufficent pressure to prevent breakaway.

 

Of course is is much more expensive to buy a 10mm SCT to T2 and a Baader Locking ring than to buy the 15mm SCT to T2, but the locking ring to me is a much better way to get a positive lock up when rotating the diagonal on a standard SCT.

 

This would only be useful for people that do 100% binoviewing though becuase changing to a 2" diagonal would require unmounting the diagonal and spinning on a different visual back, and that can be tedious.

 

But for Alt-az mounted, the 10mm is all you need.








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